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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
If any of you using high octane gas with turbo setup on stock pistons and your car is running rich (stop). Get it tuned to optimal or your pistons will fry!

Unless you don't mind blue smoke coming out of your muffler.

My Accord piston fried because of the wrong grade of fuel and top of that 11 psi on everything stock.

Car ran awesome on unleaded fuel, it was a little faster on 93+ octane but ran rich and ended up frieing rings. Actually rings didn't fail it was the piston that melted from one side.
 

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Dude if you melted a piston on 93 octane then you defiantly didn't want to run anything lower. The higher the octane the slower the burn rate. There for it is more likely that you won't have detonation, thats why all the cars that come stock with boost say only run 93. You were eather to lean or too much timing advance, or both. You should have never stepped into it that much with out having it tuned anyways.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I was running 11 psi everyday on complete stock motor on 1991 Accord with 165,000 miles (yup, the numbers are correct).

Car had a lot of power. It would spin tires while going from 1st to 2nd gear. By the way its automatic transmission.

Car never ran lean, I have the guage installed.

I was reading about these high octane fuels on several forum so decided hey why not give it a try, and my car lasted only one tank. But believe it or not it would still drive and spin tires with busted piston.

And when I took the engine apart not a single damage to cylinder walls. I got them honned and put forged pistons in it. Now I try to keep it under 5 psi of boost.

Using unleaded fuel running optimal and rich. Rich when car is cold then jumps back to optimal. I still need it tuned.

What do you guys suggest about tunning?
Should I buy Apexi Air fuel controller or should I chip the ecu and modify maps?

How easy is Apexi AFC to install? any experience?
 

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lmao of course you'd think it has a lot of power...it's the placebo effect. it's like the blind trying to lead the blind. ANYONE w/ ANY HALFWAY DECENT KNOWLEDGE knows not to boost without some major tuning. especially since boost affects how much fuel is needed. you say stock motor, does that include STOCK INJECTORS? if so, then man....
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
UltraMagneticAL said:
lmao of course you'd think it has a lot of power...it's the placebo effect. it's like the blind trying to lead the blind. ANYONE w/ ANY HALFWAY DECENT KNOWLEDGE knows not to boost without some major tuning. especially since boost affects how much fuel is needed. you say stock motor, does that include STOCK INJECTORS? if so, then man....
Yes Sir, Stock injectors. I did use Vortech FMU one time and it did make a difference in acceleration but beileve me my gas mileage were horrible. So I took it out. So what do you suggest for tunning? Apexi AFC or something else?

How do they tune Fuel ratios at Dyno testing? Is Honda Stock Ecu editable?

The closest Dyno from me os around 40 miles and they charge around $100 for pulls and tuning. If its gonna take more than $100 I might as well buy Apexi AFC or chip my ECU to datalog and burn map myself.
 

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dude....turn down the boost, then get some bigger injectors and a higher capacity fuel pump. also, change out the auto tranny if you want to take advantage of all that power. the reason your motor lasted this long is because what's being output is just slipping thru the tranny. it's not feeling the load from the road :lol after getting the bigger injectors, you can tune the fuel maps. vafc/safc is okay, but only to an extent. I like full management. hondata is good, but there are way better systems out there. a good tuner that has lots of experience can dial in what he thinks is a good basemap, run it on the dyno, then make a few adjustments to his basemap for optimal settings. they will adjust cam timing, spark timing and the fuel map. you may want to invest in an adjustable timing cam gear too to make tuning a little easier.
 

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let me get this striaght.....he installed the turbo and just drove.... :bash

Get a AEM EMS.....go to a tuner that is familiar with it and LEARN THIER.....DONT DO IT YOURSELF.....slow down and actually Soak up the knowledge
 

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ATISTANG said:
Dude if you melted a piston on 93 octane then you defiantly didn't want to run anything lower. The higher the octane the slower the burn rate. There for it is more likely that you won't have detonation, thats why all the cars that come stock with boost say only run 93. You were eather to lean or too much timing advance, or both. You should have never stepped into it that much with out having it tuned anyways.
EXACTLY! melting = detonation = too much timing or a lean condition or both. did you ever get your dizzy timing and cam timing checked?

you say it never went lean cuz you have a guage installed.. LOL let me guess its an autometer or some other NARROWBAND peice of shit guage that runs off the stock O2. those guages are peices of SHIT and are useless. you need a WIDEBAND O2 and wideband AF guage to get some real readings.

and about tuning, you obviously didnt read my reply to your prior post.
http://www.superhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=272827
READ IT! or stop driving your car into boost and get it to a tuner that knows what the hell hes doing. i would hate to see those forged pistons go to waste, man just send them my way before you melt them.. :ninja
 

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bonestock94 said:
EXACTLY! melting = detonation = too much timing or a lean condition or both. did you ever get your dizzy timing and cam timing checked?

you say it never went lean cuz you have a guage installed.. LOL let me guess its an autometer or some other NARROWBAND peice of shit guage that runs off the stock O2. those guages are peices of SHIT and are useless. you need a WIDEBAND O2 and wideband AF guage to get some real readings.

and about tuning, you obviously didnt read my reply to your prior post.
http://www.superhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=272827
READ IT! or stop driving your car into boost and get it to a tuner that knows what the hell hes doing. i would hate to see those forged pistons go to waste, man just send them my way before you melt them.. :ninja
This is exactly why I went with a P28 chipped ecu, hondata with S200b, got rid of the autometer a/f gauges and got a vac/boost gauge and a decent basemap for 11psi so i can limp to autowave for tuning. hahahah
 

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f22GTR said:
Yes Sir, Stock injectors. I did use Vortech FMU one time and it did make a difference in acceleration but beileve me my gas mileage were horrible. So I took it out. So what do you suggest for tunning? Apexi AFC or something else?

How do they tune Fuel ratios at Dyno testing? Is Honda Stock Ecu editable?

The closest Dyno from me os around 40 miles and they charge around $100 for pulls and tuning. If its gonna take more than $100 I might as well buy Apexi AFC or chip my ECU to datalog and burn map myself.
Anyone running over, what, i think 5psi should upgrade the injectors.
Shit, I just started into boost and from readings learned that those FMU units are complete crap, they are like the crutch and crip walk of fuel management units and are the primary reason behind blown motors.
Tuning? You can go Apexi AVC-R, Hondata, Crome, Uberdata, Neptune, Megasquirt II, or a few other ways.
Your gas mileage would have been complete shit at 11psi, I get 25mpg stock, and at work almost every STOCK turbo'ed car gets below 20mpg easily. That FMU probably was not helping in the slightest bit either.
They tune fuel ratios at the dyno by measuring air/fuel ratios on a wideband and adjusting it from there, you may notice they go slower too.
If you are a on a serious budget and $100 is too much for you then maybe boost isnt the way to go, or maybe you want to spend more time learning how to street tune the ecu after buying a wideband o2 sensor and a chipped ecu, or hell even a ecu chipping kit.
By the way dude, I chirped tires going from 1st to 2nd in my old accord lx automatic with just an intake. It wasnt hard.
 

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TSM_Pikachu said:
If you are a on a serious budget and $100 is too much for you then maybe boost isnt the way to go, or maybe you want to spend more time learning how to street tune the ecu after buying a wideband o2 sensor and a chipped ecu, or hell even a ecu chipping kit.
This is quite true...major power adders bring a lot of associated costs with them. If you think that you can skimp on tuning you are very mistaken...its the basis for reliablility on a boosted vehicle. There are a few routes you could go, but none within reason will let you get away for less than 100 dollars. If that still seems to be too steep for your blood, look at it this way...you have a good thousand plus investment under hood, you want it to last and to get the most power for your money, correct? Put it into perspective, you don't want to have to get the internals done again.
 

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TSM_Pikachu said:
This is exactly why I went with a P28 chipped ecu, hondata with S200b, got rid of the autometer a/f gauges and got a vac/boost gauge and a decent basemap for 11psi so i can limp to autowave for tuning. hahahah
will they touch uberdata or crome? limping my way to Do It Dyno in Signal Hill or Church in Wilmington is kinda far.
 

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TSM_Pikachu said:
By the way dude, I chirped tires going from 1st to 2nd in my old accord lx automatic with just an intake. It wasnt hard.
OMG that's how my car is.

but back to the topic, come on, what idiot out there would toss a turbo in their car without doing anything? that's like putting a nos bottle in the trunk and stuffing the tubes under the carpeting to make it look like it's going somewhere. i haven't even considered force feeding my car and i already know my car ain't gonna handle that much boost without changing SOME parts. who the hell runs bone stock with a turbo?
 

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f22GTR said:
Car had a lot of power. It would spin tires while going from 1st to 2nd gear. By the way its automatic transmission.
I had an 86 new yorker turbo that would do that, how do you figure it has a lot of power based on that? It really probably does it not because of the power but because its on its last leg :lmao
 

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bonestock94 said:
will they touch uberdata or crome? limping my way to Do It Dyno in Signal Hill or Church in Wilmington is kinda far.
Call them up, they might do Uberdata and crome.
I know they do hondata for sure and they have a dyno too
http://www.autowaveinc.com
Check it out, they've been there for a long time and they are corner of warner/gothard in huntington beach which is like 5min from goldenwest college
 

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audioxbliss said:
OMG that's how my car is.

but back to the topic, come on, what idiot out there would toss a turbo in their car without doing anything? that's like putting a nos bottle in the trunk and stuffing the tubes under the carpeting to make it look like it's going somewhere. i haven't even considered force feeding my car and i already know my car ain't gonna handle that much boost without changing SOME parts. who the hell runs bone stock with a turbo?
Well considering I am doing almost nothing to my motor I would say im doing boost with bone stock-ness. hahahaha
T3/t4 turbo, log manifold, Hondata s200b, p28 ecu, 440cc injectors, 190lph fuel pump, hi vol fuel rail, adj fuel regulator, greddy type s bov, and a smaller fmic
 

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TSM_Pikachu said:
Well considering I am doing almost nothing to my motor I would say im doing boost with bone stock-ness. hahahaha
T3/t4 turbo, log manifold, Hondata s200b, p28 ecu, 440cc injectors, 190lph fuel pump, hi vol fuel rail, adj fuel regulator, greddy type s bov, and a smaller fmic
but at least you're getting that much. this silly nublet didn't do shit. probably did the install in his back yard with a roll a duct tape and a pair of scissors or something.

btw, not to go off-topic, but i just got my motorcycle license >.<
 

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audioxbliss said:
but at least you're getting that much. this silly nublet didn't do shit. probably did the install in his back yard with a roll a duct tape and a pair of scissors or something.

btw, not to go off-topic, but i just got my motorcycle license >.<
And my forums just got almost 50 members and lots of forums and almost 5 vendors now.
 
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