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Discussion Starter #1
Like I said, stock 94 Integra LS. Only a CD player installed along with 4 6.5in. Installed 2 RF 10" subs, with a 460W Dual amp to power them. Would this setup need a cap with a stock alternator???
 

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No... While the debate goes on about the "actual" usefullness of caps, the general rule to stick by is for every 1000 watts a cap is needed.
 

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DjPaj said:
No... While the debate goes on about the "actual" usefullness of caps, the general rule to stick by is for every 1000 watts a cap is needed.
Caps=garbage. There's my 2 cents on the matter, LOL. If you absolutely have decided to use a cap, a better rule of thumb is 1 Farad per 6-700 watts IMO. Still, rubbish.
 

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VTECnicalAccord said:
Caps=garbage. There's my 2 cents on the matter, LOL. If you absolutely have decided to use a cap, a better rule of thumb is 1 Farad per 6-700 watts IMO. Still, rubbish.
HAHA I never said "I" liked caps or found them useful, I pesonally would opt for a higher output alternator, cause in actually that is the issue at hand, that your alt can't handle what you asking it too. But with this dude only looking to push 460W (I am assuming max) he should be fine...
 

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just get a deep cycle battery and you will be fine. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I have looked at where the alt is on my car, I really dont feel like putting a new one it cuz I put a system in and didnt set it up right, catch my drift... I just dont want to blow my alt cuz Im being stupid about this.... *grin Lord knows I do plenty of stupid stuff normally... *grin
 

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StylinAccord said:
just get a deep cycle battery and you will be fine. :)
Deep cycle battery won't do too much if an alternator can't handle the power load... All your battery is truely there for is to start the car, once started the alternator takes over control of all electrical components in the car, if your battery starts to take control of your electrical stuff, it means that your alt is failing...
 

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unless you have a DEI 1100d hooked up to your dad's 1988 honda civic dx (55A alternator?) and the amp wants to pull over 80A at 2ohm, then its gonna start sucking up the alternator as well as the battery's current.


now where have i seen such a case..:eek:
 

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please god tell me you are still within your 30 day return period at best buy for that amp.... :p sorry dude, but i work for that black hole and those things are nothing more than packaged poo. if it says 460w, you're probably getting like 50 x 2 rms... if that. that 460 is a W.L.S. rating. When Lightning Strikes. if you're cruising down the road and a freak bolt of lightning zaps your car, that's how much power the amp will put out right before it melts.

seriously, take the money you paid for it and hold on to it. as soon as you can save up a few more bucks, get that 201s from fosgate. it's only like $140 and it would be a whole hell of a lot better than that dual. trust me, you'll thank yourself later.

but back to the main point of the post. no, with that little demand, you shouldn't need a cap. if your lights dim with that setup, you might want to have your alternator tested.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Oh, i completely believe you.. I know there is reason that no one has heard of it... I just got it cuz its what I needed.. And I think that I got about 2 wks left or so before the return date... Strangely enough, it hits kinda hard, sounds good too... Have not had any problems, though I hear that under-powering subs is a good way to do dmg to the sub. I also got the 4 yr. service plan, but I believe that also only lets you get a new one of same type if that one blows correct???

Tell me more about this fosgate amp. Its not that I dont believe you on the quality of this dual, its just that I take the policy of if its not broke, dont fix it... I also put all the best buy stuff on CC, so getting a new amp would not be all that difficult... *grin
 

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well, i install at best buy.. and i'm the one that has to test them when they come back in... about 50% of the decks sold come back within the first two weeks when the internal amp dies... "it's playing the cd, but i can't hear anything" ... of the decks that make it past the first two weeks, about half of them croak almost 3 weeks later - putting them conveniently a week past the return date. i don't know how many times i've had to let people down with the old "you're outside your return policy, but i can pull it for you and ship it off to namsung, the company that makes it."

their speakers usually don't last that long either and their amps are even worse.. the amps usually take a while to get thru their burn-in period... so you think they're doing pretty good. but since it's gradual, you don't notice the power dropping off. you'll find yourself turning the bass on the deck up until it won't go anymore, then you'll go to the gain on the amp. by the time you realize what's going on, i guarentee you'll be past the 30 day mark at the store.

the fosgate amp on the other hand is an awesome amp for the money. granted, they aren't as good as the amps they made a few years ago... but they're still a good amp for the price. when i first started working there, i picked up that system for my wife's car.. 2 rf 10's (punch z's for her) and a 201s. the system has been pluggin away beautifully for a little over a year now. another good thing about the amp is that it is a stereo amp.. when i decide to upgrade the system for her later, i can reuse that amp for her front speakers.

here's a link to fosgate's amp page so you can check it out... one thing to remember about fosgate is that each one is tested for actual output from the factory, and they usually put out about %15-20 more than they're rated at.

http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/amplifiers/

then again, if money's not an issue... buy alpine. those amps are fuckin bulletproof. :p
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well, rex'er, here is my situation. Amp needs to be returned by Saturday. My buddy has a 400watt fosgate punch amp he brought from back home.. Hasnt used it in a while, him and I will test it to see how it works..
My set-up is a Kenwood CDPlayer I think 50x4. That powers for 6.5s for my mids and highs. I got two 10" rf punch Zs, what kind of pwr should I be looking for this setup??? Yeah, cash is an issue, but I also want something that sounds good and that I am not dumping money into....
 

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depends on actual output of his amp.. is that 400 continuous, or peak? bridged, or stereo? get the model # of the amp and check their website.. it should give you some info on rated power. z series subs do best with about 75-100 watts continuous power.. too much higher than that and the sound quality drops a bit cuz the subs will be moving like crazy.. makes that annoying flapping sound that warns of future problems if left as is.

go ahead and hook them up to the amp.. just do it by sat, just in case they crap out you can exchange them. :p if it sounds good to you without having to crank gains (never do that) then you should be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
My buddy and I are gonna do this on Friday, I got class and he has to work today, so I will let ya know how it turns out....
 
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