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i like, i like, keep us up to date. G/L on the project!
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Thanks guys for the props!! +1 for the feedback / support :number1 (Won't allow anymore +1's, get the rest tomorrow)!!

projecthatch92 said:
awesome thread man. are you doing all this by yourself, cuz if you are, that's impressive.
So far all by myself.... of course the forum(s) have been helping me as well

projecthatch92 said:
quick question, how did you get the antenna and everything out, because i don't use my radio and always wanted to take it out, but got really impatient and gave up. :bash
Basically you'll need to unplug the antenna and route it back to where it enters the pillar/under dash. Once you have the antenna free from everything under the dash you can pull the entire assembly out from the antenna hole after you remove the cover of course.

Putney said:
I am doing a K-series swap in August in my EG and I will look back to this thread. this is one of the most detailed threads I have ever read. Just awsome! You're Number One in my book. :number1
Thanks man for the kind words! If my thread helps just one person then to me all the pics/post are worth it :clappy

Putney said:
What radiator are you going to use and are you making re-locator brackets or is there a kit?
Not sure yet. At this time I am leaning toward a single size radiator and slim fan. I've thought about going with a full size rad. and have not eliminated it at this point.

Putney said:
Why do K-series swaps need Fuel Pressure Regulators, on one can tell me the reason, maybe you can; you seem to know what you're doing.
Besides regulating the fuel pressure, I don't know why. I really don't know that much about the swap :cry I've been reading as much as I can on k20a.org Just sooooooo much info to learn.

Putney said:
Oh, mad crazy reps! :w00tz
Thanks again man :number1

riceboy89 said:
*suscribe*

and for the dry ice thing ur using. its easier to use a heat gun to zap the deadner/glue/etc then scrape it off using the heat gun vs the dry ice.
I tried a heat gun on the door glue which sucked!! This is my 2nd time using the dry ice method on the sound deadning material. I've seen numerous people go this route, works like a charm, and a grocery store 3 minutes from my house sells it. It's .99 p/lb but damn it hardens that sticky $hit up like Terminator 2, lol :hehe

kommon_sense said:
Don't forget that the stock brake booster vacuum line has a built-in one-way valve and you need that when you swap in the k20. A lot of people forget that...
Thanks, didn't know that :ninja

kommon_sense said:
This would also be a good time to swap in the quaife steering rack pinion :) and install the Energy Suspensions Steering Rack Cushion.

I was looking in the Helms yesterday with the steering and really thinking about getting the Quaife steering. Pretty much made up my mind to drop the subframe / steering for a better paint job.

kommon_sense said:
You should also keep the charcoal canister to prevent smelling gas fumes in the cabin. Unfortunately these wear out over time, so you may need to put in a new one.
I've heard mixed reviews about keeping/disgarding the canister. At this point I am leaning toward ditching it and venting the line at the rear by the tank...

lowcivic66 said:
Quick relevant question, how many turns to lock is that rack?
I read on HT about it, but can't recall off the top of my head.

Thanks again guys for the props and I'll post some progress (not to much) pics tonight.
 

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Hybrid93Hatch said:
Thanks guys for the props!! +1 for the feedback / support :number1 (Won't allow anymore +1's, get the rest tomorrow)!!

Not sure yet. At this time I am leaning toward a single size radiator and slim fan. I've thought about going with a full size rad. and have not eliminated it at this point.

Besides regulating the fuel pressure, I don't know why. I really don't know that much about the swap :cry I've been reading as much as I can on k20a.org Just sooooooo much info to learn.
www.hybrid-racing.com has a radiator that they recommend and a slim fan to go with it, I think I might buy it, but they want like $500 for it, so maybe not.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Putney said:
www.hybrid-racing.com has a radiator that they recommend and a slim fan to go with it, I think I might buy it, but they want like $500 for it, so maybe not.
That's pretty pricey. I'm going to look at all the options before making a decision. I'd like to keep the radiator / fan under $250 :hehe

More pic coming......
 

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gurusan said:
This thread is awesome.

Great work....nice to see a detailed worklog with pics and everything.

:popcorn

Word...lol this thread is great makes me want to take my whole car apart for the hell of it.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Thanks again guys for the props and support!! :clap2:

lowcivic66 said:
Word...lol this thread is great makes me want to take my whole car apart for the hell of it.
LOL :lol2

Some supplies I picked up:

This is what I will be using to keep the metal edges (firewall & other places) from touching any wiring:



It's called chicken run and comes in 12" pieces. You can see the entire piece(s) sitting on top of the heat shrink from Harbor Freight. Basically the grove of the chicken run mounts over the edge and is held in place once glued. The crank pulley tool, chicken run, and scotch pads were picked up from other places (the rest Harbor Freight).



I think I found the solution to door glue removal:



I was hoping to have the Karcepts shifter kit cut out completed by the end of the day. That didn't happen since I ran into a couple obstacles.

Karcept's shift kit hardware:



Make sure the 2 little brackets are correct:
(Note the laptop in the background / it was outside as I worked -- the instructions are about as detailed as you can get :number1



Template mounted and 2 holes marked for drilling:



Pop's gave this to me as a X-mas gift as well as a few other Harbor Freight goodies. Awesome punch:



Drilling the holes:



The rear mount bracket was a little wide as you can see in the pic:



I marked what needed to be trimmed off:



And started trimming with my Harbor Freight polisher/sander (hopefully the neighbors didn't see the camera/tripod when I was taking work in progress pics :giggle



Much better fit:



Not sure if I need to trim some off the right side so the left side will sit flush. Karcepts said the gap should pull out fine once the hardware is installed and tightened down. Great service with Karcepts :number1



Waiting on a router bit to slot the holes. Once slotted I will finish the kit with the cut out.



While waiting I have scrubbed most of the engine bay with a toothbrush. I am going to remove the subframe / steering rack for cleaning/paint + better paint job in bay! Then it's time to start prepping for paint :)

Thanks again guys for the support :hug
 

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Completely awsome, this will come in handy when I do my K swap in August. I just love seeing pics of the work in progress, it makes you reallize what it took to make a car look great. I hope you end up in a magazine or something.
Crazy Props. :w00tz
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Putney said:
Completely awsome, this will come in handy when I do my K swap in August. I just love seeing pics of the work in progress, it makes you reallize what it took to make a car look great. I hope you end up in a magazine or something.
Crazy Props. :w00tz
Thanks for the props!! :w00tz
Wish my fiance would say something like that about the car :bash

Thanks to everyone else who has given props / rep points :number1

Enough chit chat time to post some work.....

Here is some pics when I removed the sound deadning material back in November 2006:







Is it ok to remove the brown glue or is that a sealer? Should I just clean it up really well, hit it with some sand paper lightly, and paint over it?? (Pic below)



Pass side removed:



Turned out to be like 9-11 pounds.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
Ok, spent a lot of time in the garage today, snapped a lot of pics, and feel like I accomplished a good bit.

How do you remove the hood lever clip without damaging it?
I may go with hood dampners, but not 100% yet.



Reminder that I need to really clean this car up:



4 bolts / 1 cotter pin to remove the brake booster:




Then I remembered I should start draining the gas from the tank while it's early. So I just loosened the drain plug just enough to get a stream going:



Removing the clutch slave cylinder.
2 bolts / 1 cotter pin to remove the assembly:



Brake booster / clutch cylinder removed:
Paint is blingin' underneath :eek:



Undercarriage is reall nasty. Goal is to clean it up really well and apply some type of overcoat.

Dropping the gas tank:

Remove the banjo bolt and disconnect the hose:



After I drained the tank I placed a jack in the center and dropped the 2 straps that secure the tank:



Then I removed the 3 plastic covers that protect the fuel system / fill up neck:
(one of the 3)



I loosened this bolt to disconnect the filler neck from the tank:



Panels removed and filler neck exposed:



Further up the filler neck:



Remove the (4) 10mm bolts to release the filler neck. Pull the grommet out and the neck drops down with the tank:



Bottom of the tank:



Really nasty, but that will change:

 

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Discussion Starter #54
Steering rack removal:

Remove tie rod ends:
(mine are screwed and will be replaced w/ new ones)



4 bolts secure the rack to the crossmember:



Here are the bolts removed:



Remove the cotter pin and slide the bolt out and remove steering rack:



Crossmember removal:

5 bolts on each side to remove:
(All 5 are shown in the pic below)



Big a$$ bolts that hold the crossmember:



Remove the (2) 14mm suspension bolts as well as the (2) 17mm upper control arm bolts and the crossmember is ready to be removed:



There are quite a few 10mm bolts that hold the brake/fuel line assembly that runs to the rear of the vehicle:





Just pulled the plastic clip off the stud to release the lines:



Rear brake/fuel lines removed:



Charcoal canister exit release:



Underview:



Then I removed all the grommets from the bay. Must of been 12:



And it's time for a good cleaning / prepping for paint in the bay:



Cleaned the fenderwells a while back. I am going to put some overcoat all in there:



Thanks for looking :)
 

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Hybrid93Hatch said:
And it's time for a good cleaning / prepping for paint in the bay:



Cleaned the fenderwells a while back. I am going to put some overcoat all in there:



Thanks for looking :)
This is awsome, I wish I could have done that with my car. This is the coolest thing I've ever witnest. :number1
 

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Discussion Starter #60
Session 016.

Worked mostly with the rear of the vehicle. Pretty much finished removing the rear wiring, hatch glass, hatch door, tail lights, bumper, etc.....

First thing I did was removed my JDMSh!t duckbill.

To remove the hatch glass just remove the (4) 10mm nuts:



Up close of one side:



Then it was time to remove the tail lights:

(4) 8mm bolts per light:



Underneath still clean from April 2006 detailing. Damn right:



Inner tail(s) has 4 bolts as well:



Did not remove the hatch gasket/seal because I was not sure exactly how it was held in place. I have learned that it's just held by glue and should pull right off without any problems:



Close up of the rubber:
It's on there really well



These clips are for the panels that will never make it back to my car. They were a major PITA to remove. I never did figure out how to remove them with ease. I just squeezed and pulled with 2 sets of pliers:



Then I removed the hatch release:



Removed the latch and release lever:



I pulled and pulled on the damn tail gate harness and then realized why it would not come out. Damn license plate lights:



Remove the bolts shown to remove the tail gate from the car:



Disconnecting the fuel door release wire:



Pop the little ring off:



Took me a while to figure out how to remove the black lever. It's really simple once you know what to do. Simply go inside the hatch area to the lever, grab ahold and twist to the left and it will come right out like so:



Might as well remove the door:



Removing the last line:



Entire rear wiring harness wrapped up and ready for install one day in the future:



What the hell is the plastic cup thing for?? Hatch leakage??



My Lowes rear bumper hardware:

 
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