I'm looking on summit for some pistons to use with a nitrous setup, and the only thing it's giving me is pistons for H22A2 and H22A4 engines. Are these the same thing as what's in the F22B2, or do they just not have what I'm looking for? If anyone has any suggestions on what to get or where to find what I need, I open to them.
96 Accord pistons?
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Any respectable forged piston connected to a stock rod will not break before the rod gets bent in 1/2.
However, Wiesco pistons are said to be the best. After them I think my heart would lie with JE pistons, they are the source for BMW pistons, and BMW doesn't mess around with nilly parts. Theres also Arias & CP, pistons many people tend to go with.
Aside from that you need to know a little about the alloys used to make pistons basically theres 4032 and 2618. They have different expansion rates, and thus must run differnt tolerances.
Some people call pistons by these 4 terms: Cast, Hypoeutectic, eutectic, and Hypereutectic.
Get to reading kiddo.
Ok, I know the 4th one you mentioned is said to behave like glass when detonation occurs (i.e. it doesn't make it through in one piece), but I'll have to do some reading on the others.
Getting started on a degree in Auto Tech on the 25th, so I'm hoping to be able to do some upgrading during the course of the engine repair and engine performance classes.
Just to make sure the Specs I got for my engine are correct, it's 85mm bore and 95mm stroke for an f22b2, right?(also, what does stroke have to do with a piston?)
Getting started on a degree in Auto Tech on the 25th, so I'm hoping to be able to do some upgrading during the course of the engine repair and engine performance classes.
Just to make sure the Specs I got for my engine are correct, it's 85mm bore and 95mm stroke for an f22b2, right?(also, what does stroke have to do with a piston?)
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Stroke doesn't have anything to do with the piston in comparison to the rod lenght you can run. Which is also different depending on the deck height of the block itself. The longer the stroke the faster the piston traves at any given RPM. Thats why strokers don't rev high. Check the stats for almost ANY honda engine on Wiki, just type "wiki Honda X engine" where X = engine type you wanna know about and there ya go , virtually evey basic spec you'll ever want to know.
There is a way to get longer rods without decreasing the engines stroke, They push the wristpin higher up into the piston, Its much more common on N/a applications. I plan to do 1mm up and over on my turbo setup when I get that far.
The F engine should handle a 75-100 shot if its done properly without the need of upgraded internals.
Also unless there are substansial reports of people grenade'n pistons from a certian manufacture over the others I wouldnt say someone makes a bad piston. All it takes is a group of ricers to fuck up a tune on a car and pop some detonation on pistons that they all got from the same company, then BAM that comp has a bad rep cause kids are dumb.
Still kinda lost on the piston stroke issue, have to do some reading on it tomorrow.
Wiki's where I went for the for-mentioned specs, just wanted to make sure the info was accurate.
For the sake of not wanting anything to break (namely my auto tranny, the POS), I'm sticking with a 50 shot of n2o for now, but if I can do something here and there to get more power out of the motor N/A and it still be reliable on the juice, I'm all for it.
Not saying anything about any particular company when talking about the hypereutectic (spl?) pistons, it's just that with the higher silicon content, they don't hold up to detonation as well as other styles. If you never have detonation, nothing to worry about, but if something went wrong, they would have a less likely chance of survival than a different compound piston.(this info is from people who def. know what they're talking about, not ricers, so I go with it)
Your always so much help, and I appreciate it all. I'll get to researching this stuff tomorrow after church, and come back with any questions or ideas, thanks again Morts.
Wiki's where I went for the for-mentioned specs, just wanted to make sure the info was accurate.
For the sake of not wanting anything to break (namely my auto tranny, the POS), I'm sticking with a 50 shot of n2o for now, but if I can do something here and there to get more power out of the motor N/A and it still be reliable on the juice, I'm all for it.
Not saying anything about any particular company when talking about the hypereutectic (spl?) pistons, it's just that with the higher silicon content, they don't hold up to detonation as well as other styles. If you never have detonation, nothing to worry about, but if something went wrong, they would have a less likely chance of survival than a different compound piston.(this info is from people who def. know what they're talking about, not ricers, so I go with it)
Your always so much help, and I appreciate it all. I'll get to researching this stuff tomorrow after church, and come back with any questions or ideas, thanks again Morts.
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Yea its a lot to take in, which is why I re-read things several times. Just wait until you get into ECU crap.:ninja PGMFI.org for some headache!
Most companys, if people would talk to them and actually ask before just buying any olde forged shelf piston, will reccomend a different alloy should you be doing nitrous/turbo or all motor. Theres also a custom option of anti-detonation grooves.
Thanks, I try to be helpful most of the time.
Yea, from my understanding, the hypers are great for N/A applications, due to the fact that they don't expand as much, and some other stuff. ECU's suck; not to worry though, I have an OBDII, auto-tranny ECU, which means that theres not very many options with it (or at least I can't find any). Never heard of anti-detonation grooves, one more thing to read about
Piston Tech - Team Integra
Very good info source. Goes from basic to stuff that's a bit mind-boggling at the moment. What I gathered from that site, a medium silicon forged piston would be the best for a street/strip engine, seeing as how that gives you decent clearances AND decent strength(and Wiesco is in that middle-silicon range). I was under the impression that my engine had a 9.1-1 c/r, but wiki said 8.8-1. Would it be advisable to up that to around 9.5-1 with the nitrous in the equation? I've also gathered that lowering the ring-pack is a good idea when getting n2o pistons, but I don't have a clue how far they should be lowered, so would the manufacturer have any suggestions on how much they should be lowered?(also, how would the lowering affect the N/A performance?)
Completely off topic question: Why can an intake manifold for a v-8 be had for 150-200 bucks, and it's 4 or 5 hundred for a 4 cylinder?
Very good info source. Goes from basic to stuff that's a bit mind-boggling at the moment. What I gathered from that site, a medium silicon forged piston would be the best for a street/strip engine, seeing as how that gives you decent clearances AND decent strength(and Wiesco is in that middle-silicon range). I was under the impression that my engine had a 9.1-1 c/r, but wiki said 8.8-1. Would it be advisable to up that to around 9.5-1 with the nitrous in the equation? I've also gathered that lowering the ring-pack is a good idea when getting n2o pistons, but I don't have a clue how far they should be lowered, so would the manufacturer have any suggestions on how much they should be lowered?(also, how would the lowering affect the N/A performance?)
Completely off topic question: Why can an intake manifold for a v-8 be had for 150-200 bucks, and it's 4 or 5 hundred for a 4 cylinder?
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Well to get into pistons you should really e-mail or call a piston company to decide whats best for your application. I can help steer you in the right direction but I've never buit motors for Nitrous use.
Yea intake mani's are expensive for 4 cylns as its a newer scene so stuff is more expensive. Theres also more people modifying 4 cylns these days than v6/v8's. Its that old saying that still holds true "What ever the market will bear".
Well, bad news for the corporate guys, this part of the market isn't going to bear 500 bucks for an intake mani (not that they make one for my engine anyway).
Just trying to get going in the right direction for pistons and such, that way I'll have an idea when I get the money together.
Just trying to get going in the right direction for pistons and such, that way I'll have an idea when I get the money together.
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Phone calls are free and so are e-mails, ask ya some questions, most of the time you'll get the answers your looking for.
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Either they allow for a cooling effect that normally isnt there or they help disrupt/distribute the forces of the detonation. Youd have to ask someone that would know, because I dont. I've read how they work but I cant remember. heh.
My guess would be that it behave like a heat-sink. Greater surface area to absorb the heat from combustion, which keeps everything cooler. I know I already said this, just thought I'd reword it in a way that didn't seem like gibberish.
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Possibly to distribute the heat over a greater surface area....but with more surface area, you're probably decreasing your clearance volume which will increase the compression ratio...effectively canceling out this "anti-detonation", because higher CR is like "pro-detonation".
This must be some kind of black magic like anti-lag :hehe
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Clearance Volume is the volume between the top of the Piston and the bottom of the head when the piston is at Top Dead Center.
Compression Ratio is the ratio of the Swept Volume (Volume between Top of Piston and Bottom of head when Piston is at Bottom Dead Center) to the Clearance Volume.
And I'm sure you know that the Volume is just the Bore Area * Height between Piston top and Head bottom.
Compression Ratio is the ratio of the Swept Volume (Volume between Top of Piston and Bottom of head when Piston is at Bottom Dead Center) to the Clearance Volume.
And I'm sure you know that the Volume is just the Bore Area * Height between Piston top and Head bottom.
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