never mind, found the piston specs. Any suggestions on where to get some good pistons?
Any respectable forged piston connected to a stock rod will not break before the rod gets bent in 1/2.never mind, found the piston specs. Any suggestions on where to get some good pistons?
Stroke doesn't have anything to do with the piston in comparison to the rod lenght you can run. Which is also different depending on the deck height of the block itself. The longer the stroke the faster the piston traves at any given RPM. Thats why strokers don't rev high. Check the stats for almost ANY honda engine on Wiki, just type "wiki Honda X engine" where X = engine type you wanna know about and there ya go , virtually evey basic spec you'll ever want to know.Ok, I know the 4th one you mentioned is said to behave like glass when detonation occurs (i.e. it doesn't make it through in one piece), but I'll have to do some reading on the others.
Getting started on a degree in Auto Tech on the 25th, so I'm hoping to be able to do some upgrading during the course of the engine repair and engine performance classes.
Just to make sure the Specs I got for my engine are correct, it's 85mm bore and 95mm stroke for an f22b2, right?(also, what does stroke have to do with a piston?)
Yea its a lot to take in, which is why I re-read things several times. Just wait until you get into ECU crap.:ninja PGMFI.org for some headache!Still kinda lost on the piston stroke issue, have to do some reading on it tomorrow.
Wiki's where I went for the for-mentioned specs, just wanted to make sure the info was accurate.
For the sake of not wanting anything to break (namely my auto tranny, the POS), I'm sticking with a 50 shot of n2o for now, but if I can do something here and there to get more power out of the motor N/A and it still be reliable on the juice, I'm all for it.
Not saying anything about any particular company when talking about the hypereutectic (spl?) pistons, it's just that with the higher silicon content, they don't hold up to detonation as well as other styles. If you never have detonation, nothing to worry about, but if something went wrong, they would have a less likely chance of survival than a different compound piston.(this info is from people who def. know what they're talking about, not ricers, so I go with it)
Your always so much help, and I appreciate it all. I'll get to researching this stuff tomorrow after church, and come back with any questions or ideas, thanks again Morts.
Well to get into pistons you should really e-mail or call a piston company to decide whats best for your application. I can help steer you in the right direction but I've never buit motors for Nitrous use.Piston Tech - Team Integra
Very good info source. Goes from basic to stuff that's a bit mind-boggling at the moment. What I gathered from that site, a medium silicon forged piston would be the best for a street/strip engine, seeing as how that gives you decent clearances AND decent strength(and Wiesco is in that middle-silicon range). I was under the impression that my engine had a 9.1-1 c/r, but wiki said 8.8-1. Would it be advisable to up that to around 9.5-1 with the nitrous in the equation? I've also gathered that lowering the ring-pack is a good idea when getting n2o pistons, but I don't have a clue how far they should be lowered, so would the manufacturer have any suggestions on how much they should be lowered?(also, how would the lowering affect the N/A performance?)
Completely off topic question: Why can an intake manifold for a v-8 be had for 150-200 bucks, and it's 4 or 5 hundred for a 4 cylinder?
Phone calls are free and so are e-mails, ask ya some questions, most of the time you'll get the answers your looking for.Well, bad news for the corporate guys, this part of the market isn't going to bear 500 bucks for an intake mani (not that they make one for my engine anyway).
Just trying to get going in the right direction for pistons and such, that way I'll have an idea when I get the money together.
Either they allow for a cooling effect that normally isnt there or they help disrupt/distribute the forces of the detonation. Youd have to ask someone that would know, because I dont. I've read how they work but I cant remember. heh.What do anti-detonation grooves look like / what do they do?
I know how the heat propagates across the piston during detonation...do these grooves disrupt the propagation somehow?
Possibly to distribute the heat over a greater surface area....but with more surface area, you're probably decreasing your clearance volume which will increase the compression ratio...effectively canceling out this "anti-detonation", because higher CR is like "pro-detonation".My guess would be that it behave like a heat-sink. Greater surface area to absorb the heat from combustion, which keeps everything cooler. I know I already said this, just thought I'd reword it in a way that didn't seem like gibberish.