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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
im working on this 96 ls. i give u the the run down so far new distributor, new plug wires, the wire been replaced like 3 months ago, has new map. and temp sensors, new fuel filter and pump, and brand new battery. the car use to have leaky injectors but today some lightly used very clean gsr injectors from 97. they fit perfectly and work get but today it started up great drove great, stopped and shut off for like 20 mins and got back in and i had trouble startin up. but i finally got it to start and so i drove home and cleaned the plugs and it started up but i turned off 4 ten mins and i had trouble starting up again. idk what it could be? could it be the trottle body sensor?
 

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It could be a whole host of things. You said you cleaned the plugs. What did they look like? What do they look like now? Are they gapped properly?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
from left to right the first two cylinder spark plugs the tips were black but i just clean them but they r now tint like black chrome now. the third and fourth cylinder spark plug were super black but i clean them good but the tips still look like black chrome. but the car starting up right away when i let it sit 4 couple hours but i ler it sit 4 like 30 mins it has hard start up like it loses pressure but i'm not sure on that
 

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Is it running perfectly fine otherwise? Does it just have trouble starting after it has been sitting?

Does it help if you let the Fuel Pump prime fully before turning the key all the way (That ''brrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr-click'' when you turn the key to 'ON')?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
yes once it starts it runs beautifully, that trouble when it sit for only like 30 mins and then try to start up but if u let sit 4 more then a hour and start up it start up wit no problems. no it does matter if i prime the pump
 

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Any chance the car is running hot? If it's really hot, the motor may reject the Air/Fuel mix during the start.

It could also be the gap on the spark plugs. A small gap will have a weaker/colder spark, and the large gap will have a stronger/hotter spark. But the larger the gap, the more chance that it will miss, while the small gap will probably never miss.

Those probably aren't the issues, but you just need to check that it's all within spec.

What is the failure like? Just cranking forever and it won't catch? There's still a lot that it could be from fuel lines, to those injectors.

Easiest idea would be vapor lock from heat soaked fuel lines. Does it catch when you keep on cranking and pouring on the fuel?

You could also try checking your FPR vacuum line.

Main relay could also be a cause (try resoldering all connections). This tends to be more of a hot weather issue though, rather than hot start.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
yes actually the engine does run hot and it burn coolant and i never could figer out that problem to. well that what happens is i turn the key forever and it just keeps cranking cranking and so when it does that i pump the gas and then it finally starts up. and the car always start up right away when the engine is cold and i have trouble with a hot start. the car use to have problems starting up when the engine was cold before i changed to these new non cracked injectors. and now its the opposite. i'm not sure the gap of the plugs
 

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Well definitely have the Thermostat checked out (hopefully your coolant is fine, and the boiling temp hasn't dropped). Check the FPR vacuum line, and the solder joints on the main relay. Again, it could be vapor lock with a bunch of air in the fuel lines instead of fuel...try priming the fuel pump using your key a bunch of times and see if it helps.
 

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its burning coolant? you could have a bad head gasket..but it should run like crap once it starts...your fuel pump could be bad also...jsut because its running doesnt mean its getting up to pressure.
 

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FPR vacuum line is from the FPR to the intake manifold.

Looking at the engine from in front of the car, go the furthest right of the valve cover and go towards the fuel rail where you'll see your FPR with a hose coming out the top and going to the intake manifold.

Lemme know if you need me to dig up pics. You should be able to figure it out. You'll probably get something by searching google for Integra FPR in images too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
lol sorry man i figer out wat the fdr hose is. but i started the car and squezed the hose and it felt like no air was going through it and nothing happen to the car when i squezed the hose and let it run
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
well tomorrow morning im get up and get a clamp and clamp the hose in the middle and she if it does anything but i did squeze the hose pretty hard tonight when it was runnin and it didnt do anything
 

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well tomorrow morning im get up and get a clamp and clamp the hose in the middle and she if it does anything but i did squeze the hose pretty hard tonight when it was runnin and it didnt do anything
just pull the hose off the fpr and put your finger over the ends
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
so today i got went to go find out why check engine light is on so see if help this starting up problem. it said, The pcm has determined that the purge flow in the evaporative emission control system is incorrect for the current engine operating conditions. EVAP (evaporative emission system) small leek/no flow condition. causes 1. defective or loose fuel cap 2. evap canister or hose cracked - not connected 3. purge or vent solenoid defective 4. vacuum leak at engine. what should i try next?
 
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