[wh1teredneck]

Hey folks im new here as you can tell. Well I thought that in this forum I could get good tips for many questions. Well to start off I have a 1998 Accord LX 4cyl. Im in the process of replacing my clutch; but I want to replace both my clutch and my flywheel but Im not sure whats the best brand. I found one clutch in ebay by the brand of Exedy and a flywheel from Fidanza. Should I try Stage 2?
Any info will help. Thanks

 

[rnstein69]

Exedy and Act are both good as far as clutch and flywheels go. to be honest, a lightweight fly doesnt make all that much of a difference, the engine just revs up a bit faster, thats all.. you can get your stock fly resurfaced for much cheaper (about 40-50 bucks) then buying a new light weight one.

read this:

http://www.superhonda.com/forum/f86/clutches-flywheels-faqs-132231/

 

[wh1teredneck]

Hmm. So basically it does necessarily matter what flywheel and the clutch I buy depending on my horsepower or the size of my engine.

 

[MortsAccord]

Unless your pushing over 240whp/tq your stock replacement clutch will more than satisfy the need for holding power.

Flywheels help some but the gains arent a huge difference. 'I wouldnt wory about it unless you find a great price on a flywheel. I got a Clutch Masters FW for 190 /w free shipping for my accord.

Another thing to remember, HP doesnt break parts, Tq does.

Most "stage1/2" clutches will offer just slightly increased holding capacity and longer service life.

 

[wh1teredneck]

Unless your pushing over 240whp/tq your stock replacement clutch will more than satisfy the need for holding power.

Flywheels help some but the gains arent a huge difference. 'I wouldnt wory about it unless you find a great price on a flywheel. I got a Clutch Masters FW for 190 /w free shipping for my accord.

Another thing to remember, HP doesnt break parts, Tq does.

Most "stage1/2" clutches will offer just slightly increased holding capacity and longer service life.

Oh. So this means that in reality any clutch and flywheel will do just fine for my car. Cause I have lots of plans for my car; such as adding DC headers, Greddy Exhausts, and perhaps buy a new Fujita Intake System. Might aswell just buy a stage1 clutch; Im hoping that does the job

 

[rnstein69]

Oh. So this means that in reality any clutch and flywheel will do just fine for my car. Cause I have lots of plans for my car; such as adding DC headers, Greddy Exhausts, and perhaps buy a new Fujita Intake System. Might aswell just buy a stage1 clutch; Im hoping that does the job

i/h/e will result in a negligible amount of torque. Just about any stock or "stock-like" clutch will do.

and lightweight fly does not result in any type of gains whatsoever. It only allows the engine to rev up slightly faster, that's all.

 

[MortsAccord]

I agree that JUST a flywheel will not produce enough difference in HP/TQ that your going to notice. Especially in an engien that doesnt hit up towards 9k rpm, where rotational weight makes more of a difference.

A guy built a G23(f23 h23 hybrid) that made 240+ whp, guess what, they used a STOCK clutch. a B series clutch at that, meant for smaller displacement engines. So unless your adding boost and forged rods and pistons to make 300wtq, your NOT going to need a stronger clutch than OEM.

Have a look see: K24 VTEC V.S. G23 VTEC - Import Tuner Magazine

 

[wh1teredneck]

Awesome! Thanks for the advices. So after all I should get both fly and clutch OEM? Or just the Fly. Whats the best brand? Thanks

 

[MortsAccord]

Well I guess that depends on who you ask. I think clutchmasters gets their flywheels sourced from fidanza. I don't have any proof, just some things I've read on forums from people who know what they're talking about. I also work for a rubber company and LOTS of window companys order from us for they "better sealing technology rubber" and its almost all the same shit. So it wouldn't suprise me in the least.

Exedy stage 1 organic disk clutch kit + flywheel would be good if you can find it for cheap. Just look around for a while if you can.

Thats how I got my CM flywheel for 190 sihpped.

 

[wh1teredneck]

Im still not sure about what Im going to do. I might just sell my Accord for $5,000 and save up atleast another 5G's to buy a Prelude. To make an Accord fast will take a lot of money and time. I was originally thinking about swapping my F23A1 for a F20B. Any suggestions of what I should do?

 

[MortsAccord]

Im still not sure about what Im going to do. I might just sell my Accord for $5,000 and save up atleast another 5G's to buy a Prelude. To make an Accord fast will take a lot of money and time. I was originally thinking about swapping my F23A1 for a F20B. Any suggestions of what I should do?

Unless its a substantially BUILT motor never swap to a smaller displacement engine.

My suggestion is you find some wrenching work to do and build yourself up a prelude, Del slow, crx or hatch civic. Any of these cars are easy to acquire for low cost and easy to build up for low cost as well.. BUT you need to be smart with your money. If you can't do that then I suggest you find someone to turbocharge a Honda for you or just get a different car, because for the most part.. without some kind of boost a Honda isn't going to be fast.

The fastest N/A Honda you can build on a budget is that G23 dropped into a crx or civic hatch. The guy who built it shopped smart and knew what he was getting into to an extent.

If you turbocharge your accord and do it smart no stock wrx will out pull you, and it wont burn a hole in your pocket.

Basically you have 2 choices: 1. Man up and learn to be a mechanic. or 2. Pay a mechanic to make a car for you.

 

[rnstein69]

Im still not sure about what Im going to do. I might just sell my Accord for $5,000 and save up atleast another 5G's to buy a Prelude. To make an Accord fast will take a lot of money and time. I was originally thinking about swapping my F23A1 for a F20B. Any suggestions of what I should do?

well, if you get a lude, you have an H22 already which is a nice platform. swap in an H22 and it sets you apart from every other common accord out there. expect to spend around 2000 to 2500 for a full H22 swap, plus you would need to do a complete timing belt change, clutch, flywheel, mounts, etc. so the cost can add up fairly quickly.

honestly, when i had my 95 accord and swapped in the H22 it was fun and i dont regret doing it, but the easier route would have been to get a prelude.

 

[wh1teredneck]

You guys do have a point. To save time and money might aswell buy a Prelude and suit it up. I dont know, its really hard to find preludes with a descent mileage now a days

 

[illusion]

Was your stock clutch holding? Resurface the flywheel and get a close to stock compound. Lighter flywheel will actually make you slower unless you are racing road courses and need the motor to change revs fast to shifts. Losing the rotational mass will actually slow down your normal acceleration. Also going with a meaner compound clutch can make daily driving a drag(speaking as someone who was daily driving a double plate carbon clutch). Chatter, increased NHV, and a bite from hell. Trying to leave a light nicely with a cop sitting next to you is fun. An exedy organic is a great daily driver replacement. Slightly increased bite with soft pedal feel and smooth engagement. ACT Stage 1 has a super heavy pedal and likes to chatter a bit. Anything over "Stage 1" and you get into nasty territory.

 

[MortsAccord]

You guys do have a point. To save time and money might aswell buy a Prelude and suit it up. I dont know, its really hard to find preludes with a descent mileage now a days

Miles dont mean as much as you think man. I got a 97 accord with 189k miles and it runs like a little beast. Sure theres some more wear on the car, its just important to know what to look at when buying a used vehicle with higher miles.

As a matter of fact I'd pit it up against any other 97 accord ex with the same mods and engine any day reguardless of the miles on their engine. It all boils down to what kind of care the car had during its miles. This is what you need to learn to look for when buying a used car.

I disagree that a light flywheel would slow your driving or acceleration, but here is something to consider. Where is your rotational weight? I recently dropped 10 lbs per wheel by getting new rims and tires. Also.. How much does the entire rotating assembly weigh? and what % are you reducing that weight by lightening the flywheel? I believe I said it before, that I would only buy one if you could get a good deal on it at the time, because it probably wont cause a noticeable change in your car. Theres other things you could spend money on. I would save money and be ready for a good deal to come up. I filed my taxes early and got 4 15x6.5 traklites for 550 shipped

The "stage 1 organic" disks are probably the best thing going for your clutch replacement. Exedy is made by Daikin I believe. I can't vouch for their products but they are a cheaper "street performance" clutch manufacture.

 

[wh1teredneck]

I just found a '97 Lude for $5500, has 90K miles. I think thats the car Ive been looking to hook up. I am indeed selling my 5 speed accord, has an F23A1 engine. What engine does the 97 Lude bring? F22b or h22? hmm

 

[MortsAccord]

Should be H.

 

[kandyflippa247]

Oh. So this means that in reality any clutch and flywheel will do just fine for my car. Cause I have lots of plans for my car; such as adding DC headers, Greddy Exhausts, and perhaps buy a new Fujita Intake System. Might aswell just buy a stage1 clutch; Im hoping that does the job

i have the same stuff on my accord and then sum; and im getting a factory honda clutch.....everyone wants a stage whatever to be "cool" unless your doing seriouse mods then its pointless and the aftermarket clutch dont or normally dont last anywhere near the factory clutch....

a few kids ive seen around did that... a couple opted for stage 1, and a couple stage 2 one wrx opted for stage 3 and all were putting in new clutchs anywhere from 15k-45k later.....maybe bad mechanics or products i dont know but cant just be coinsidence.....

if your not rich, id go with the factory oem clutch