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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well the time has finally come. I've spent the last year collecting parts to do this swap and its finally underway. Its a 98 civic EX with about 156k on the odometer. I've been using the car for track events, but it simply wasn't fast enough, had poor gearing, no lsd, etc., etc. So I decided on a k-swap.

I wanted the k for the following reasons :

- 6 speed tranny
- roller rocker valvetrain
- timing chain
- 86x86mm bore
- iVTEC/VTC
- Good power in stock trim

I sourced the engine in pieces. This was a huge mistake as there are a lot of dishonest sellers out there. I purchased 3 blocks before getting a good one. I had the shortblock rebuilt by Jeff @ www.importbuilders.com . I stuck with the rules for Honda Challenge as I would love to run this car in HC if my budget ever allows.

I rebuilt the tranny myself adding in a quaife, and replacing all of the bearings and a slightly worn shift fork. Unfortunately gearspeed does not offer carbon coated synchros, but the synchros looked great, so hopefully no issues there.

I ended up rebuilding the head as I found out it had 2 damaged valves. I found this lovely gem just as I was about to put the head on the block.

I'm redoing the suspension at the same time. Replacing bushings and control arms.

I used the hasport ekk2 mount kit. This required me to swap to a 92-95 civic or 94-01 integra front subframe/crossmember, steering rack, and front lower control arms. I opted for the integra p/s rack as it has the best steering ratio lock-to-lock available. I've been really disappointed in the quality of the hasport kit. If I had it to do all over again, I would probably go with Hybrid Racing.

Let the pics begin :


Went with the mugen baffled oil pan since this will be a roadcourse setup


ITR Cams with Eibach Valvesprings







Up on the engine lift to install the Comptech 9.5lb flywheel


Exedy Organic Racing clutch disc in place. Pressure plate going on next.


Tranny installed and engine set out of the way for now.


Injectors back cleaned and balanced from RC Engineering. According to the report, some injectors were only spraying 296cc. After cleaning/balancing, they were spraying 310cc, 310cc, 309cc, 311cc. Doesn't get much better than that.


One last shot of the old d16y8.... Its been good to me. I almost felt bad.. But I got over it.


Engine harness is now in place. I figured this would be easier with the engine out of the bay. I decided to just get brand new harnesses instead of sourcing used ones... Too many people were selling harness with missing/damaged connectors...


The engine lift is connected and time to pull the motor.. I had already pulled out the radiator and we wrapped the engine in electrical tape just in case one of the chains broke loose :)


And its out :)


Its really empty... They are doing construction in my neighborhood, so my engine bay is ridiculously dirty...


So we pushed it out into the driveway and powerwashed it. The battery and all had been removed, so I just put duct tape over the opening for the wiring harness and any exposed connectors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Now time to swap the crossmember. The EG/DC2 crossmember has these spacers that go between it and the frame rail. Mine looked a little rusty, so I spray painted with with some krylon rust inhibiting paint.


One more shot of the old ek crossmember and rack setup.


If you are using an integra rack, then be sure to get the universal joint from the integra rack as the univeral joint on the ek rack will not fit on the larger shaft of the integra rack.


I noticed that I have some paint coming off on the passenger side frame rail. Don't know how that happened, but easy enough to fix now with the motor out of the car.


Came out pretty good. I put down a layer of rust inhibiting primer, then rust inhibiting black paint with a flat finish, then a coat of green. and got a very close match to the chassis.


Here is the paint that I used


Getting the subframe out isn't too bad. However you have to seperate the ball joints on the knuckles and lcas. You also have to seperate the ball joints on the tie-rods and knuckles. I couldn't get the tie rod joints seperated, so I had to just screw the tie-rods off of the rack. I will fight with them later. I supported the subframe with a jack and just rolled it on out.


Now the new rack and subframe is in place. This was a pain in the butt. You really need an extra set of hands to do this. You have to lift this heavy thing into place (it doesn't balance well on a jack), and get the bolts into position, then align the steering rack with the steering column/wheel. Joy...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Time to relocate the radiator and a/c condensor. I used a spotweld cutter... its the *ONLY* way to do the job. It is basically a mini hole-saw that cuts *around* the weld, So you don't have to waste time drilling *through* the weld and putting a hole in the chassis... The spotweld cutter leaves behind little nubs that have to be cleaned up later.


My removed tabs/brackets do not get destroyed/mangled in the process. Take measurements of all of the tab locations and write them down. This will make life easier when you reposition them. I just flipped the measurements and everything lined up perfect when we test-fitted things.


Here is a macro shot of my spotweld cutter. This is a 5/16" cutter. Perfect since the spot welds are 1/4". I got it as part of a set at Northern Tool for $13.99 . Once I got the hang of it, I cut through the welds and had the brackets removed in no time.


I cleaned up the welds with an air grinder... I love air tools... Afterwards I hit them with a little paint so that I wouldn't have bare metal.


Another reason why I was a little disappointed with the hasport kit. The hardware was all mild steel. It is a little hard to see from this pic, but *ALL* of my bolts were rusted right out of the package. I spent about $40 replacing all of them with plated grade 8.8 or better bolts.


I went to dinner and hit sears to pick up a larger tap handle. I then relocated the radiator and a/c brackets. I just drilled some holes with a 13/64" bit and tapped them with a 6mm X 1.00mm tap. Some 6mm bolts will hold the brackets in place until I can get them welded. Sorry, forgot to take a pic. Everyone was tired and cranky by this point :) It had been a long day.

Its about 1am and we are trying to get this motor into place.


By around 2am we finally had it in place and everything snugged down... It would have gone quicker if we were using the proper hooks on the motor for the lift. However our leveler had short chains. This is why the motor is crooked in the previous shot.


A slightly better shot taken the next morning.


A nice big opening over here to figure out my air intake setup. Some of this space will be eaten up when the radiator and fal fan are installed.


Still have decent space behind the valve cover. Looks like I can still get my strut tower brace back on. Looks like about 9.5" of clearance to the firewall.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
IISaiNtII said:
what axles are you using?
Getting my axles from www.raxles.com . Marty at raxles has built axles for a number of k-swapped road-racers. I need to take measurements tonight so that I can order the axles tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
riceboy89 said:
awesome awesome build. lol this has to be one of the quickest builds ive seen on sho :hehe
lol... Nothing quick about this. I started buying parts in Dec. 2005... I thought I was going to have it done this time last year, but just kept having things pop up. I got the motor pulled on a monday, cleaned up the bay, and got the new motor in the following saturday.

I've been knocking out more things in the evenings since and taking pics. I need to get them all uploaded.

oh and i am well aware of your activity on k20a.org. i saw someone with your user name on there and immediately suspected unfaithfulness.
unfaithful... no never ... :ninja
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
I was out of town for a week so progress has been a bit slow. Still playing biological clock catchup on the time difference between east/west coast.

Suja1 clutchline. Unfortunately the fittings are not clocked quite right, so I had to get creative with positiong it so that it wouldnt bind.



My old end-links were kind of beatup. THe one on the left is the old ES bushing endlink from my stock bar. I chose the 24mm ITR bar because I liked its endlinks. Less room for slop since you only have 2 bushings.



New sway bar end link, new bushings, and Energy Suspensions sway bar bushings.



You can see that my sway bar in place has some clearance issues with one of the heatshields.



I fixed that with a pair of tin snips. Be sure to fold the edge so you don't slice your hand open. I cut out the curved section on the top right.



New radiator and fan combo. I already had the FAL so trying to make it work. Clearances by the throttle body are tight.



New OEM fuel filter with an Earls adapter in it. Converts from 12x1.25 to -6an for the fuel system.

 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
I ended up with a set of '05-06 shifter cables so I have to cut the counterweights off. Say hello to Mr. Dremel.



I tapped the holes on the radiator support to attach the radiator brakets. They seem to hold well, but I would really like to weld them up.I might just grind down a spot and jb weld.



Fluidyne on the left. Old stocker radiator on the right. Looks kinda sickly from that angle, but it got the job done :)



Radiator and fan mounted. Notice things start getting a little cramped on that corner. I still have to route the air intake and coolant hose to the fitting up near the top middle of the picture.



My first -6an black fuel line. Made it myself. Kinda pleased with how it turned out.

 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Picture of my stock power steering pump... That sure is a big pulley.



So I use the Jackson Racing Pulley from their Supercharger kit. It is 1" smaller in diameter than the oem pulley.



Voila



I found all of this under my front 2 seats when I took them out... Finding my red swiss army knife makes it all worth it :)



Getting ready for the karcepts kit.

 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
[EK]riMzen[DC5] said:
any reason you decided to put your own lsd in, rather than go with the K tranny that has an lsd?
I'm planning to do track weekends and the aftermarket lsd's like kaaz, cusco, and quaife perform better than the oem lsd. Also, since this car will still see street time, I wanted the gearing in the 02-04 rsx-s tranny. The gears in the type-r tranny are too short. The 02-04 rsx-s has the longest final drive of any of the k-series trannies at 4.389FD. Even with that long FD, I'm still going to be turning about 4k rpms at highway speeds.
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
I'm planning on getting a camera, but we will have to see where that lands in the budget :) I've got quite a bit more work to do on this thing to get it like I want it. I was hoping to be ready to hit the track by summer, but looks like I will have to wait until Oct and make the annual trip to Road Atlanta.
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Latest updates. I got the karcepts shifter kit installed last night. Just need to crawl back under there and seal it up with the silicone that came with the kit. The karcepts kit is very nice. You just have to be very meticulous with it because you only have one shot at cutting the hole.

I didn't want to buy an angle grinder or saw-all since I didn't have much use for one. I tried a jigsaw, but due to the raised hole for the factory shifter it wasn't a good option. So I ended up using the trusty old dremel and just taking my time. Luckily for me, I picked up a pack of dremel's new metal cut-off wheels. I only burned through 1-1/2 cutting the hole. Pretty good considering the hole is 3-layers thick in some places.

Took maybe an hour to cut out. That is mainly due to the fact that I kept stopping every few inches to let the dremel cool off and because it was 95+ degrees and I was inside the car in my hot garage. So kept having to take water breaks. I should probably buy a fan for the garage.

You really should remove the seats for the karcepts kit. It would be nearly impossible to cut the hole without doing that. Not a big deal though. 4 bolts per seat and they are out.







Dremel has a new metal cut-off wheel which ate through the sheet metal without much problem.


Plan to put my rear suspension back together tonight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
Got some more done this evening :)

Took the rear end apart because it is getting freshened up as well.

The front lcas were taken care of before I ever began the swap.





The rear trailing arm bushings were pretty busted. They had a lot of little tears in them. They probably would not have failed anytime soon, but they were definately tired.




Went w/Mugen rear trailing arm bushings




Got the schley tool, part #65100. The tool cost about the same as what shops were quoting me to install the bushings.




The tool is ridiculously easy to use. So easy that I wasn't paying attention and pushed a bushing in too far. Had to push it all the way through and start over. I paid better attention the next time :)




Nice new fresh bushings in place.

 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
I got the rear suspension put back together. More pics of that later. The latest batch of pics are with the header. I'm using the aem/dc k-swap header. I'm using the Hasport EKK2 mount kit with the k20 in the top mounting hole. The header is a bit tight and has me a little worried about clearance issues as I don't have much space at all between the header and my shifter cables.

I'm seriously considering lowering the motor to the bottom holes on the mount kit but I've got to check ground clearance on the oil pan before I make that decision.

Notice the 3 bolts on the flange. Using this header eliminates your cat. This thing bolts directly up to your midpipe.



Header is very close to the subframe, but has adequate clearance.




This is what I'm worried about. Look at hose close my shift cables are.




Here is a bottom shot. If I dropped the motor down a notch on the mounts, it would give me almost another inch of clearance with the header, but then of course I lose an inch of ground clearance. I'm considering just running with things like they are since I plan on getting a custom header anyways.



A side shot. It tucks in nice and neat. Even clears the heatshield on the axle midshaft. I installed the header from underneath the car. It slid into place even easier than installing a header on a d/b-series.

 
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