So, car is together. Time to get it aligned and on the scales.
I did the basic corner weighting in my garage. The method is *VERY* simple.
0. Disconnect front and rear sway bar endlinks
1. Measure droop on wheels. Droop is how much it hangs. Jack up one end, measure to make sure both wheels hang the same. Adjust so that they are the same. Do this for front and rear.
2. Jack up front of car. Put jack in the middle
3. See which tire lifts off the ground first.
4. Adjust/Lengthen coilover on the *opposite* corner of the car. So if LF lifts, adjust RR.
5. Drive car around the block and park it. Go back to step #2.
I did this method on both the front and rear of the car until I got it as close as I could get it. When I got it on the scales, the guy was shocked. My corner weights came out to this :
LF 765 RF 775
LR 471 RR 485
So that makes my crossweights 1250 and 1246. Only off by 4lbs

And I did it in my garage with a floor jack and a tape measure.
So next step was to get an alignment. I ended up with the following :
Front Camber : -1.75
Front Toe : 1/16" toe out
Rear Camber : -1
Rear Toe : 0
Here is what was left of my b-day cake. A friend who makes custom cakes made me one like a race tire
I cracked my last helmet at an indoor karting track. So never take your good stuff to a crap track!!! Had a Bell sport 3. I bought the newer Bell M4. It has a wider eyeport which really improved my visibility and breathing. My old helmet felt stuffy.
A friend gave me a set of piloti driving shoes a while back for being in his wedding. Gotta, say these are actually kinda nice.
If you don't have a cage/harness, then you've gotta get a CG-Lock. This thing is great. About $40 and 80% the holding power of a harness. I never had to adjust my belt or seating position a single time while on track. This is not a safety device. It just keeps your butt in the seat so you can focus on driving.