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The fundamentals to swapping a '94 Prelude H22A engine into a '94 accord

Parts list for 96-97

Article Taken from "Honda Tuning" magazine featured February 2004

Engine Removal

Common sense dictates that you should arm yourself with a factory service manual. You'll spend less on it than all the parts you probably break if you don't use it.

The F22 can be removed from the top or the bottom, but dropping it from the bottom is easier if you have a lift and engine dolly.
The Trick is to keep the A/C system intact and in the car (including the compressor) during the swap to avoid refilling it. With the compressor removed from the engine, string it up to the lower radiator support to keep it out of harm's way.

Keep in mind that you will reuse many pieces, so it's time well spent making sure you have everything unhooked before you move the engine. Removing the radiator will make the engine compartment less cramped, especially if you're working through the top of the engine compartment. Honda radiators have plastic end tanks that won't hold up to a swinging engine. One tap and they're toast.

Our swap victim was a very sleepy looking '94 LX with a five-speed. Our H2 came complete from HAP Recycling, which was from a 94 Prelude-perfect. With the two engines sitting side-by-side, you'd be able to piece together all the right bits quickly.

Engine Mounts

Getting the H22 bolted in will require cutting tweaking and general rearrangement of the stock left side mount or purchasing the Hasports part for this swap. The Hasports part is solid aluminum and comes with a polyurethane bushing, which reduces engine movement but increases vibration compared to stock rubber. The other three mounts are based on original parts. It's a good time to consider the original mounts you're reinstalling (hint, buy new mounts). A few decent launches will finish off any old and cracked mounts, and it's too easy of a job to pass up when the engine is out.

You'll have to use the softer Accord front mount because the stiffer Prelude mount is the wrong height – bummer. The Accord or the Prelude rear bracket and mount set ( no mixing and matching them) can be used, but the Prelude parts are stiffer and a wiser choice.

If your car started as an automatic, you'll need to weld the manual transmission bracket (Honda P/N 60831-SV4-970ZZ) to the right frame rail in place of the automatic part. Or keep your eye out for a Hasport-produced mount that will adapt the autos frame rail bracket to a manual transmission.

Wiring

To prep the wiring harness, there's enough soldering to kill half your brain cells and plenty of work to stress out the survivors. Hasport also makes one that's plug and drive. If you go the easy way, you'll get a modified Accord harness and a separate sub-harness, which connects the unique * guts to the h22a ECU. To tackle it yourself, get the two engines side by side, add a tasty beverage and get familiar with these mods.

-The oil pressure sender wire, while still using the accord plug, gets extended 5 inches to reach the H22's sender.

-The electronic air control valve is located near the middle of the fuel rail on the h22 rather than near the throttle position on the F22. To accommodate the EACV plug and its yellow/black and blue/yellow wires get moved to the center of the injector harness.

-The vehicle speed sensor plug gets moved from the front to the back of the engine, near the O2 sensor plug—same wires, different location to fit around the h22a.

-Because the distributor is closer to the coil on the Accord vs. the h22, the coil, EGR, and fan switch circuits need lengthening. While on the EGR wires, change the connector from the Accord's 3-pin square connector to the Prelude's round one. You can keep the same pins but swap out the plastic connector.

-The intake air temperature sender is located at the end of the intake manifold on the h22 vs. the middle on the f22. Extend its red/yellow and green/white wires to fit.

-If your car didn't come with VTEC, you'll need to add the wiring for the air intake bypass (AIB), knock sensor, VTEC oil pressure sensor, and VTEC solenoid. IF your car was EX, you will only need to add wiring for the IAB and the knock sensor.

-The knock sensor circuit (red/blue), which isn't there on the stock f22m, is added at the same breakout as the oil pressure sending wire by using the pigtail from the Prelude harness. This wire connects to the sub-harness and then to the ECU pin D3.

-The h22's AIB circuit that opens the short high rpm runners in the intake manifold also gets added by tapping the black/yellow wire from the h22's plug to the same color wire that foes to the distributor in the Accords harness. This supplies power to the AIB solenoid. The pink signal wire goes from the AIB Solenoid back to the sub-harness/ECU at pin A17.

The VTEC oil pressure switch wiring will already exist on the Accord EXs, but the rest of us need to add the circuit., The plug from the h22a and its light blue wire get routed to pin D6 on the ECU. The black/red wire from the switch goes to the ground.

-To hook up the VTEC solenoid, connect its green/yellow to pin A4 on the ECU.

-In a futile attempt to throw us off, Honda switched the EGR solenoid valve wire and the O2 sensor heater wire on the ECU's A connector (pins 6 and 11) on the Prelude as compared to the Accord. Swap those two pins in the under das connector and thank the engineers for their effort.

Engine Accessories

Getting the engine dressed with the right combination of parts will be easy if you have everything in front of you outside the car. So resist the temptation before you have a game plan of which parts to use.

For engine accessories, it's all h22 except for the Accord A/C compressor and compressor bracket. Mixing Prelude and Accord accessories make either accessory drive belt unusable, but NAPA part number 25-060425 is slightly smaller (42.5 inches, six ribs) and works great. The Accords high-pressure power steering line will be cobbled to fit the h22's pump. Replace a few inches of the Accord line with a piece you cut from the Prelude. Remember. This is the high-pressure side of the pump which can run at about 400 times the pressure of the engine oil system, so it's not a connection to be made with hose clamps. Brazing or welding is required.

Drivetrain

As mentioned previously, the transmissions are similar, so the Accord clutch and slave connection, and shifter cables fit without modifications. Don't you love how Honda makes this easy?

The Prelude half shafts are stronger and should be considered necessary if you plan to use the extra power. The Accord's inner CV joint has a splined section on the half shaft that engages an internally splined section of the half shaft. The Prelude's assembly has a male spline on the half shaft that engages the beefy CV join casing, a stronger design. Apart from this difference, the sets are dimensionally the same, and you'll have no trouble using the prelude parts in the Accord knuckles and hubs.

Exhaust

The exhaust is another example of great planning (or maybe laziness) by Honda engineers. How many engine swaps are out there where you can use all OEM parts? The Prelude already comes with a nicely made 4-3-1 header. Using the Prelude downpipe and cat, the rest of the exhaust system from a 90-93 Accord will bolt up. Another option is to use the Prelude SH header, which comes with an adaptor that allows you to use the original (94-97) exhaust system. With either approach, plenty of shops can supply a freer flowing system, so the h22's high-end isn't snuffed out.

Intake

The Accord throttle body is smaller than the Prelude part, so all the work you just did will be gasping for air right about when VTEC switches. The Accord throttle body works fine for regular sedan driving. The h22a will breathe deeper and easier, especially at high revs, which the Accord engine never ventured. You can use the Prelude throttle body and prelude cables if you don't need cruise control. Unlike the Accord throttle body's integrated MAP sensor, the Prelude's sensor is mounted on the firewall in a mystery box. Use a MAP from a 90-93 Civic DX mount to the firewall in place of the Prelude mystery box (which has other emissions control functions we don't need). To keep cruise control, stay with an Accord-like throttle body and cables.

Fuel System

When you try to hook up the fuel line, you'll notice the Accord's rubber line bolts onto the opposite side of the fuel rails as the Prelude. Fortunately, a 97-or-newer Prelude fuel rail will marry the fuel systems. The part number from the dealer is 16610-PT3-A00.

Cooling

Heater hoses from the 96 Prelude are slightly longer than earlier Prelude and Accord pieces and will fit better. Similarly, Prelude radiator hoses are required to match up the h22. The radiator that came with the Accord will be big enough for the h22 in stock form. The h22a Accord radiator used in JDM applications is slightly thicker than the North American five-speed radiator. The thicker radiator was also used in North American automatic transmission cars if you're going for authenticity.
 

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good deal :tu i can keep this sticky and keep it separate from the actual FAQs thread since this is more of a how to type of thing :nod
 

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h22 accord swap

i need to find a shop in the tri-state to do my swap h22 in a 95 accord ex.
i need to find a shop that has done quite a few of these swaps before i dont
dont mind spending a little extra. i am familiar with the swap as far as parts
etc i just need someone to do the swap. I dont have the time or the facilities to do it myself.
thank you :) :) :) :
 

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got a Q on swappin a H into a 4th gen. Will there be any modification on the console where the shifter comes up through where the old auto shifter went?.and how long would it take for someone to do this swap in there own garage? could it be a weekend job or a week long thing?When my brother and my cuz swapped the B16 into my ef hatch it took about 3 an a half days, is that about the same as the H?
 

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HELP Need Help with 6gen h22 swap

I need help for the distributer wiring from the obd1 prelude distributer to the 99 accord ex obd2 harness can anyone help. Please?? Oh and the sensors that I NEED to connect to drive my car. Not concerned on the check engine light right now i just need it moving. Thanks
 

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internal dist can be had for like $75-100 and will save you a lot of wiring headaches. :nod
 

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99Accolude said:
Hey you guys who did the accord 6 gen h22a swap.what did you do with the throttle cable. it seems to be too long for the h22.


you can kind of see the throttle cable bracket on the top of this pic
 

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-In a futile attempt to throw us off, Honda switched the EGR solenoid valve wire and the O2 sensor heater wire on the ECU’s A connector (pins 6 and 11) on the prelude as compared to the Accord. Swap those two pins in the (under das connector )and thank the engineers for there effort.

is that : (under dash connecter ) where under the dash you find this ? and in the A block of the ecu ive got a pink/blue wire in pin A17 is that the wire to swap out ?
 

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92' accord coupe h22a swap "oh yes another one"

hi,

i bought a jdm front clip with uncut wire harness.....and i have a feeling it will not be long enough for my left side driver 92' accord. i looked at the Hasport website but they dont seem to offer a sub harness for accords. I will try calling tomorrow when they are open.

ok fellas...what is the easiest way to wire an h22 engine to a 92' accord coupe?...i only have 2 days to finish this swap before i go to work friday morning...the h22 is already out of the front clip?

ps: if you dont wish to help a brother out..please dont reply with smart ass comments..i rather have no response..thanks
 
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