I'm guessing that you're talking about 800 watt max Kicker subs, so that mean's they each run 400 watts RMS, which is the continuous power. You're then going to want a 1600 watt 2 channel amp, NOT 4 channel. 2 channel would split it into 2x800 max, which would be 2x400 RMS. If you're looking to save money, get a Legacy 1490 Amp, awesome amp for $140. If you're looking to throw away your money, go buy the most expensive Rockford Fosgate amp you can find.
A lil hep pezz.
I have two 800 watt kicker comp vr speakers.
What is a good azz amp i can buy to power those.
What kinda wattage will make them sound at there best??
any help would be apreciated,
What is a good azz amp i can buy to power those.
What kinda wattage will make them sound at there best??
any help would be apreciated,
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
You'll run the risk of blowing the speakers like that... you don't want to match the max output of the amp with the speakers.. it's always smart to go under.. pleople don't like hearing that becasue they want the most power for thier system, but the truth is you probaly wouldn't be able to tell the difference if you had 400 watts on both of those or 300 until you blow the speakers. Always under your wattage to your speaker rating. Go with an amp that feeds about 300 into each channel, or one that can operate at a low ohm rating ,and you can run them off the same amp.. wiring in parralel will let you get twice the power from amp in a way. I have two Pioneers 10". they are DVCs setup to be 2 ohms each. the amp I have is the Small Kenwood Excellon 2 ch. amp. bridging the two channels gives me 200w RMS to each speaker, and the spekaers handle 300 RMS.way2jedi4u said:I'm guessing that you're talking about 800 watt max Kicker subs, so that mean's they each run 400 watts RMS, which is the continuous power. You're then going to want a 1600 watt 2 channel amp, NOT 4 channel. 2 channel would split it into 2x800 max, which would be 2x400 RMS. If you're looking to save money, get a Legacy 1490 Amp, awesome amp for $140. If you're looking to throw away your money, go buy the most expensive Rockford Fosgate amp you can find.
Ok so for two speakers that have a max wattage of 800w a piece,which is 400 watts rms.
Just use a 2 channel amp that channels 300watts to each speaker??
Just use a 2 channel amp that channels 300watts to each speaker??
Yes... you could also do a 1 channel amp that had 600 w, as long as the ohm load was safe.... running two woofers in series (if they are 4 ohm each) will give you a 8 ohm load on your amp. Running them in parrallel will give you and 2 ohm load. The lower the ohms the higher the output of the amp..but with more distortion... and higher current draw... and some amps can't handle lower than a 4 ohm load... and most can't handle 1 ohm they meltdown, and you'll have a smoking ruined amp.Leon21 said:Ok so for two speakers that have a max wattage of 800w a piece,which is 400 watts rms.
Just use a 2 channel amp that channels 300watts to each speaker??
Ok i got the amp amd got everything hooked up, but the power light isnt coming on.
I had the same problem with the other amp i have.
I thought it was the amp so i just got a new one.
Is it that there is no power on the postive terminal side??
I think my ground wire is ok.
I have it touching the metal on the side of my trunk.
What could be the problem??
I had the same problem with the other amp i have.
I thought it was the amp so i just got a new one.
Is it that there is no power on the postive terminal side??
I think my ground wire is ok.
I have it touching the metal on the side of my trunk.
What could be the problem??
That's the most likely answer, if you didn't have a proper gorund I think it might shut on and off... before you go changing the power wire.. ground the amp drectly to the chassis. Something on the floor, and on something structural to the car... otherwise you just aren't getting any juice. YOu do have the positive wire connected directly to the battery right?Leon21 said:Ok i got the amp amd got everything hooked up, but the power light isnt coming on.
I had the same problem with the other amp i have.
I thought it was the amp so i just got a new one.
Is it that there is no power on the postive terminal side??
I think my ground wire is ok.
I have it touching the metal on the side of my trunk.
What could be the problem??
Yes.I have the battery wire directly connected to the battery.dohctor said:
That's the most likely answer, if you didn't have a proper gorund I think it might shut on and off... before you go changing the power wire.. ground the amp drectly to the chassis. Something on the floor, and on something structural to the car... otherwise you just aren't getting any juice. YOu do have the positive wire connected directly to the battery right?
I got my battery tested today and it tested just .
So maybe i just have the ground wire not connected right.
When u say ground the amp.what do u mean?? You mean the wire right?
If its not the ground i dont know what it is??
Make sure the wire is grounded to bare metal, not painted metal. Also is your remote wire hooked up correctly? Is it getting power from the radio? It should be the blue wire, and it should be getting power from the power antenna turn on. And also make sure all of your fuses are good. You do have a fuse on your power wire right?
I know these sound like simple things, but one of them not working will cause the amp to not turn on.
I know these sound like simple things, but one of them not working will cause the amp to not turn on.
Ok i have the blue wire for the amp connected t the turn signal fuse.
Is that wrong??.
What should i connect it to??
And yes i have a fuse on the power wire.
And the ground wire is cnnected to bare metal.
I am starting to think it has something to do with the remote wire.
Is that wrong??.
What should i connect it to??
And yes i have a fuse on the power wire.
And the ground wire is cnnected to bare metal.
I am starting to think it has something to do with the remote wire.
its a load on your amp to run it at 2 ohm unless you got a good kinda amp. id get a rockford 1000a1 and wire it in 2 ohm to those. theyll fuckin hit then. but it depends how much money you want to spend too. thats a expensive amp
I got a Lanzar 1600 watt amp.
Is there a way to make it hit harder by what u just said gsr24??
Is there a way to make it hit harder by what u just said gsr24??
Is your amp bridgable. Do you know how many ohms you have it wired to
Yea. I know for a fact that my amp is bridgeable.
But i dont know how many ohms i have it wired to?
How do i determine that??
But i dont know how many ohms i have it wired to?
How do i determine that??
Im assuming the amp is 2 channal. look on the output of your amp, where the wires come out to go to the subs. They are each labled + and -. On top of that for each channel, there will be a bridgable set of them. So on one of the channels there will be a positive(+) and you hook that to the other channel where the negative(-) is(so we're on the same page, this should take about a 2 inch peice of wire). After that take the remaining + and - and put the + to one of the subs on the +. and the - to the other sub on the -. after you do this, connect the two subs together in the box with a wire, on the remaining + and -. I hope i was clear enuff. with that amp it would fuckin hit. im pretty sure if you had it installed its pry already at 2 ohm but u can check. im me if u want.
diggi24.
diggi24.
you confused me with that.gsr24 said:Im assuming the amp is 2 channal. look on the output of your amp, where the wires come out to go to the subs. They are each labled + and -. On top of that for each channel, there will be a bridgable set of them. So on one of the channels there will be a positive(+) and you hook that to the other channel where the negative(-) is(so we're on the same page, this should take about a 2 inch peice of wire). After that take the remaining + and - and put the + to one of the subs on the +. and the - to the other sub on the -. after you do this, connect the two subs together in the box with a wire, on the remaining + and -. I hope i was clear enuff. with that amp it would fuckin hit. im pretty sure if you had it installed its pry already at 2 ohm but u can check. im me if u want.
diggi24.
ill draw a picture tomorro and post it cuz i gotta go now. later
With a reputable brand of spekers (Kicker would be an example) you run no risk of blowing them by meeting or slightly exceeding the RMS power handling capabilities of the woofer.dohctor said:
You'll run the risk of blowing the speakers like that... you don't want to match the max output of the amp with the speakers.. it's always smart to go under.. pleople don't like hearing that becasue they want the most power for thier system, but the truth is you probaly wouldn't be able to tell the difference if you had 400 watts on both of those or 300 until you blow the speakers. Always under your wattage to your speaker rating. Go with an amp that feeds about 300 into each channel, or one that can operate at a low ohm rating ,and you can run them off the same amp.. wiring in parralel will let you get twice the power from amp in a way. I have two Pioneers 10". they are DVCs setup to be 2 ohms each. the amp I have is the Small Kenwood Excellon 2 ch. amp. bridging the two channels gives me 200w RMS to each speaker, and the spekaers handle 300 RMS.
I run 400W+ to my IDQ all day although it's rated to 350. My single a/d/s/ 312rs.2 (300W per coil) is daily driven with a single PQ40.2 (conservatively rated at 300x2 when bridged)
It's actually worse to underpower then to overpower. That doesn't mean put a 1000W amp on a 250W RMS sub of corse.
Very true rcurley55, a little headroom is good so that you don't have to drive your amp into clipping.
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
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