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***Grab a beer or drink, relax and read...a very informational writeup***

SUPERHONDA DISCLAIMER: THE FOLLOWING WRITEUP IS INTENDED TO BE USED FOR INFORMATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY. ANY ACTION YOU DO TO YOUR CAR IS BY YOUR OWN HAND. SUPERHONDA.COM AND THE AUTHOR OF THE ARTICLE WILL NOT BE HELD LIABLE FOR YOUR MISTAKES OR MISFORTUNES. IF THERE IS EVEN JUST ONE THING YOU ARE NOT CLEAR ABOUT, PLEASE VISIT A PROFESSIONAL TUNER. SUPERHONDA ALWAYS RECOMMENDS THAT YOU HAVE YOUR CAR PROFESSIONALLY DYNO TUNED. THANK YOU - staff


--This writeup is bought to you by FBTuning of Louisiana and Myself 9400rpms RevHigh productions--
[The information used in this writeup is info i've gathered threw my countless days and hours of tuning

ALOT of honda/acura engines with different mods and have seen great results on the street/track/dyno.

I will share the serects i've found out and created to a great tuning session to get the most out of your

motor. With that in mind if you need anymore help or more explaination my name is derek, my cell is listed

below in my sig as well as my email, my aim is TurboAcuraGSR]

Before you start lets go over the basics, as i will be using Crome to do instructions and give insight on the

tuning basics and methods.
Crome i use because i find it better then hondata or basically any other EMS out there, on top of that its

free..does everything else all the others do without bugs..
--Basically your goin to need a wideband, i use the innovate motorsports, the lc-1 or lm-1 is perferable, or

a AEM wideband.
--Tuning is always a two person job, One to tune / One to drive. The driver is your go to guy, he listens for

unusually things in the motor, or on the road, and its the safest way, to take down readings and make

adjustments.
--Sheet of paper / pen, you'll need this to record the readings of AFR at each RPM that we go threw and

it'll allow you to make the right adjustments instead of guessing
--1-2 Quarts of oil
-- Check your oil, coolent, belts and timing, Stock timing should be set on 16 TDC, i run 18 on my dizzy

cause i'm a Igition hooker..but run 16.
--Finally if your reading this and dont have the programs u need to tune, pgmfi.org or Tunewithcrome.com

Tuning is simple and pretty easy to work the tuning programs themselves its just commen thought..

+++Setting up+++
Put the Wideband on the car, before you start it!! Do that, then hook up your laptop and start up the car.

Immediately look at the air/fuel ratio the car is warming up at. When the car is warming up, it will tend to

be a little rich, like in the 13's:1 air fuel ratio. When the car gets past a certain temperature, like when

the temp gauge starts to move past the first line, the car should have an air/fuel ratio of 14.7:1. This is a

number you need to memorize. 14.7:1. During idle, and all normal driving under 30% throttle, you want

14.7:1 air fuel ratio. Anywhere between 14.3-14.8 is fine.. 14.7 is used as a perfect measurement

++++Setting Idle and Partial throttle+++++
this is the start of tuning, while your setting in your car waiting for it to warm up, watch your rpms..and

your wideband w/e your car is steady at it should be at 14.3-14.7



Your goin to need to adjust any number within the column i circled once you find the one that moves your

AFR up and down use that to make ur idle adjustments..
Driving under 30% throttle is goin to involve using the next 4 coloums of the maps you see to your right,

you may adjust those according as you have your friend driving, just drive regular no hardcore shit,

there's no need, i dont really get into tuning partial throttle but to be honest, anything between 13.8-14.7 i

usually leave be..lets get down to what you want to know, how to make your car fast..

+++++Tuning Low Cam (VTEC Disengaged / Non-VTEC cars)++++++
Go into Options you'll see a vtec tag called Vtec Engagement either uncheck it, or set it to a really high

rpms such as 12000..this will allow you to only tune the low cam.

Now to get started, most STOCK cams or aftermarket cams dont even make power on a car until 1500, so thats where we're goin to start, for starters all tunes on the street i recommend doing in 2nd gear..I also state that the driver calls out each rpms by 1000's..this will help the tuner to keep track of each AFR at each 1000 rpms..
!!!!!!!!!!!!!WOT (WIDE OPEN THROTTLE) on ALL MOTOR cars should be 12.7-12.9 Turbo/SC/Nitrous should see no higher then 11.8's!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Lets begin, 2nd gear pull from 1500-2500 and start.. Record the AFR between those rpms and make an adjustment in the columns, WOT is goin to involve the last 3 columns which is 80%+ throttle you'll move those up and down each 3 rows at a time.

As you can see here, tuning out the low cam isn't goin to really give you any big humps or massive fuel sucking in because well your not turboed or SC or using Nitrous
Remember we're shooting for 12.7-12.9
********keep in mind since i'm a all motor hooker freak, this is based on n/a tuning all tuning used here can be used for sc/turbo/nitrous, it just varies on how the maps look***************

You'll make your pulls so on from 1500-6000 is where we'll finish tuning the low cam, go by 1000rpms and make ur adjustments as needed up or down.

++++++++Tuning High Cam (Vtec engaged)
as you come to a close at 6 grand your going to go back to options, engage vtec at either 3000 or 4000 rpms, and do the same all the way till redline, i suggest stock b18c's or b16's do not go above 8500rpms.
Now your wondering why so low?? answer is?? to tune out the whole map see where vtec actually makes that difference..The point of vtec is to pick up where the low cam primaries leave off.. Setting vtec really low, or really high has no effect on power what so ever..you think i'm lying but i'm not..see most people who run big cams without a good tune usually say set your vtec high and be done wrong..completely wrong this is stupidly retarded..because vtec is a smooth change over to the high cam you shouldn't FEEL the ***** Kick only hear it..and feel it start to make a gradual pull on you..

++++++++++++Setting vtec++++++++++++++++
Yes as i stated no matter where you put it, it wont make a difference just how the car feels will only vary but lets set this baby the RIGHT WAY..look at your Low cam map.

Now notice your low cam stops wanting fuel around 5000ish??
Now lets look at your high cam

The motor starts to suck in fuel at what 5100 rpms?? retardedly alot too

Setting your vtec should be easy from here, you stopped adding fuel on your low cam at 5000? High cam took off at 5100? 5100 or 5200 will be just a fine setup..Lemme go into detail about this, Look at your maps, Adding and taking away fuel will allow for more power always.. as u can see on my stock type-r motor i stopped adding fuel around 7000rpms..but on my dyno i made power all the way up until 8100rpms, my power didn't even drop until 8300, now just because u stopped adding fuel doesn't mean a thing it doesn't mean u stopped making power it just means that since the car is spinning at high rpms and the air is rushing in and out so thin u dont need all that fuel to igitite.

With your vtec set, your low/high cam tuned, lets make a few pulls threw 1-3rd in a disclosed road, watch the wideband for any lean spots and adjust as needed remember wot for best results is 12.9-12.7 for n/a motors, ANy FI motor should START at 11.8 partial driving and idle will still remain at 14.7.
This is the BASICS to tuning.. both low and high cam are tuned the same way, and as i stated, you dont want to ever feel vtec's instant pull.


++++igition Timing++++
I dont take too kindly to people that dont know this fooling with it, so i'll run it down quickly... Advancing or retarding your timing is tricky and can cause alot of problems if you aren't careful.. i suggest if your goin to do igition timing, after fully tuning your low cam maps, adjust your timing by +2 degress WOT

Remember for WOT we adjust the last 3 columns and make a past, if your car runs insanely rich..your too advanced and not making any power.. But if you start to run lean..your burning more fuel = your making more power..
Add some more fuel and advance by 1 degree until you start running rich, then back it off by 2 degress, this will allow a safe advancement of timing without the knock :) Basically thats tuning igition in a nutshell its all about watching the wideband..its a very great tool and i suggest it..I'll add on to this writeup shortly but i wanted to get it up..please if u have any questions or comments plz lemme know

thx for reading, Derek Dunbar.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
i'd also like to add that the smooth your AFR (Air fuel ratio) is the smooth your power band tends to be..this is also based ona "butt" dyno i've had more experince with Street tuning then i have with dyno and i feel that the majority of us import tuners out there, dont have the time nor the money to actually spend on the dyno for more then 2 hours.. the normal tuning time with a good howto usually last 2-4 hours..there's been many nights after my girl has gone to bed, that i'll take my car out on a disclosed road for 3-4 hours at a night and test different things, i know what works and i've seen the results..i've seen my tunes add up to 12 WHP across the midrange and almost 14 PEAK WHP on the dyno so i know my methods work most are universal but to me i'm the only one who's taken the time to write this out..

believe me if u have more questions post up and i'll be happy to reply with a how to of those, such as setting launch control or shift light..
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Here are the mistakes people make when they go and tune:
-They changed the exhaust/header. Get your exhaust BEFORE you tune. or Go fine tune again.
-They put on a High-Flow cat. Time to re-tune, now your running lean.
-They changed the cams...DO NOT DO THAT!
-They took off the cat to go race, now your probably melting pistons, your way too lean.
-They put in a different thermostat, and the car runs at a different water temperature than when tuned. This will change the air/fuel ratio, don't do that.
-They thought they were smart and tried to mess with the timing, or fuel pressure. When your done tuning, notice what your timing and fuel pressure were, and MARK THEM. Do not change them. Even if you go up or down in elevation, it is only going to run slightly leaner or richer, not crazy off.
-With a turbo, never change any aspect of your setup, if you do, go back to tune. Wastegate, manifold, turbo, piping, intercooler, anything, or your asking for trouble.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Bump for people to read and give feedback.
 

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What were you tuning with? like Uberdata or Crome or something? I have been looking into stepping into tuning myself, messing around with VAFC's and maybe even uberdata. This is good info. Rep.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
BurntRubber87 said:
What were you tuning with? like Uberdata or Crome or something? I have been looking into stepping into tuning myself, messing around with VAFC's and maybe even uberdata. This is good info. Rep.
I suggest Crome or crome pro, i use both and i can vouche for both i seriously believe this is way better then hondata and is far better then uberdata...

crome also comes with a setup for ITBS, rev tools and much much more even for nitrous/sc/ turbo apps.
 

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I've looked for this but can't seem to find it..I'm horrible at soldering and all that junk but is there anyway you can buy an ECU ready to go, just plug the computer in and tune to your heart's content?
 

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I offer those services if you can provide a ecu, if i have to find an ecu its more, but i offer those servers for 50 bucks.. the way it would work is you send me your ecu, i'll set it up for chipping and datalogging and i'll pay the cost to ship it back to you
most people usually charge more and usually add shipping into it..
I also offer my full server tuned basemap service, basic what phearable does but cheaper and basically more features..
I Offer to take your OBDI ecu, p28, p30 or p72 socket and chip it, make your own basemap from a car with your motor and your mods.. and i'll make sure you have no lean spots, set your rev to w/e you want or whatever i see fit, you'll also have the options of CEL shift light, a/c cut off, full throttle 2 step launch and much more i offer these services for 140-150 including shipping back to you, i think phearable wants like almost 200? i also dont just supply a limited warrenty, i guarantee my tunings, if you dont like it or you have a problem, i'll pay to have it sent back to me and i'll fix it until you like it..if it takes me 10 basemaps before your happy thats fine..
My basemaps are also Tuned for a) the best WOT setting for that app b) Its been actually used on cars this isn't some piss map that's thrown together.. and C) it will work.

alot of people ask whats the difference between mine and say jun chips or skunk2's..
Simple..my tunes were actually used, and took hours to create, i'm not jun/skunk2 but if u knew what their "chips" were you'd shit..
their stock roms with a huge amount of fuel added everywhere and vtec engaging at a unusually high point to "FEEL" that vtec crack over.....
with my chip you gain low/mid/high and u dont lose gas mileage..infact u might gain it..
 

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So these are basemaps that say i'd be able to modify myself with the right software/hardware?..and adjust say the 2 step, the rev limiter..stuff like that?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yep, their not locked, their there as a base from someone with knowledge of this (me) so you can modifiy them as you learn..create ur own ways to tune.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Bump for this to be made a sticky :)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
thx u guys :)
 

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12.7 - 12.9 is kinda on the rich side for all motor.

3rd gear pulls is about the best gear to use as it doesnt go "fast" through the RPM's and makes tuning not so much of a rush.

Tuning ignition timing by the seat of your pants isnt always the smartest thing to do. If you are going to do it that way, i suggest getting an egt gauge and a wideband that can be setup to read knock. Also, me and a buddy of mine made a stethescope that has a magnet on the end so we can attach it to pretty much anywhere on the motor. This is very useful because we can "hear" the ingition and we will be able to hear if the car detonates after making ignition adjustments.

Leaner does not mean it is using more fuel and making more power. Lean means there is more parts air than there is fuel meaning you need to add fuel to give it more power. Using a dyno, finding your MBT and adjusting your ignition timing from there is the best way to safely and effective achieve power through tuning the timing.
In most cases, advancing your timing will make your a/f's run leaner and retarding the timing will make the a/f's run richer.

Part throttle tuning is a BIG part of street tuning (what you are describing). It is usually what takes the most time and usually can only be done sucessfully with a fully operational datalogging program. I use the zeitronix wideband which has an integrated datalogging program. Crome Pro is really nice to have as well since it has datalogging and map tracing made into the real time interface.


No offesnse, but it doesnt seem like you need to be teaching people how to fuck up their motors.

edit: If you dont know what you are doing, take it to someone who does know what they are doing and learn from what THAT tuner does.

Beyond all that, it takes some money to get setup to where you can actually tune. You need a laptop with the right system requirements, wideband, ostrich, datalogging cable, chip burner...etc.
 

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2.2L said:
12.7 - 12.9 is kinda on the rich side for all motor.

3rd gear pulls is about the best gear to use as it doesnt go "fast" through the RPM's and makes tuning not so much of a rush.

Tuning ignition timing by the seat of your pants isnt always the smartest thing to do. If you are going to do it that way, i suggest getting an egt gauge and a wideband that can be setup to read knock. Also, me and a buddy of mine made a stethescope that has a magnet on the end so we can attach it to pretty much anywhere on the motor. This is very useful because we can "hear" the ingition and we will be able to hear if the car detonates after making ignition adjustments.

Leaner does not mean it is using more fuel and making more power. Lean means there is more parts air than there is fuel meaning you need to add fuel to give it more power. Using a dyno, finding your MBT and adjusting your ignition timing from there is the best way to safely and effective achieve power through tuning the timing.
In most cases, advancing your timing will make your a/f's run leaner and retarding the timing will make the a/f's run richer.

Part throttle tuning is a BIG part of street tuning (what you are describing). It is usually what takes the most time and usually can only be done sucessfully with a fully operational datalogging program. I use the zeitronix wideband which has an integrated datalogging program. Crome Pro is really nice to have as well since it has datalogging and map tracing made into the real time interface.


No offesnse, but it doesnt seem like you need to be teaching people how to fuck up their motors.

edit: If you dont know what you are doing, take it to someone who does know what they are doing and learn from what THAT tuner does.

Beyond all that, it takes some money to get setup to where you can actually tune. You need a laptop with the right system requirements, wideband, ostrich, datalogging cable, chip burner...etc.
Thxs asshole..this was a basic howto..for the rookies..fuck off, doing 3rd gears pulls on the street = moronic..why? cause by the time ur at 3000rpms ur almost at like 75ish?? depending on where u are, son your retarded...known fact, adjusting ur igition and running leaner = making more power cause ur burning fuel...this was a simple howto in a nutshell..fuck off.
 

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i can't stick this thread on account that it can be VERY bad news for n00b tuners/ricers who think they know what they're doing.

i also added a disclaimer.

oh and apex pfc > crome ;)
 

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2.2L said:
well only a fraction of it was correct.
I'll probably get banned for saying this but where is your tuning writeup? At least he tried...trying to at least get some people's foot through the door in tuning so they can start and start playing around. Not everyone lives around a dyno. and can go hang out, and see how its done.
 
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