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Leon21 said:
Ok, i just got my car and i dont know where to look,and i dont have a civic hand book.
Where the hell do i check it at??
The i looked in all the normal plces but thre is no stick there??
Here, look at this pic...
You check it by pulling the plug out of the 'fill hole' and sticking your finger in there. It should look like you've been dating Oprah... :D
 

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Re: Re: Re: About checking tranny fluid for a 5spd.

Leon21 said:

So basially what??
Just unscrew the plug and dip my finger inside??
Yep, just like dating Oprah!

Actually, if it's truely full, you should see a little oil drooling out of the hole when you pull the plug. If it isn't, stick your 'little pinkie' in her and use it like a dipstick. Not very high-tech, I know, but that's the way it is...
 

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Leon21 said:
I think i am lost becuase my tranny doesnt even look like that on the passenger side.I guess an lx is different.
Hmm... sorry if I'm being too rudimentary, but you do realize that you need to get under the car to check the tranny oil, right??? You can't do it from above. The black and orange thingie is the axle if that helps you find it...
 

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Leon21 said:
*bangs head on keyboard* yb u0 wwj wk 087jh tnvtuvpw9t

Ok now i understand,that makes more sence now.
So that pic was taken from underneath the car?
Yep, and the 'fill plug' is toward the firewall.
 

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CivicSiBeast said:
if its not full, what oil do you recommend BDC?
If you don't know what's in there, drain it and put in new fluid. I change my gear oil every 15000 miles.

The only oil to use, IMHO, is Red Line synthetic oil. I use Red Line MTL in the winter and Red Line MT-90 in the summer. It's a about $8.00/qt and a CiViC takes 2-quarts. Here's a pic:
You can also use Honda OEM tranny fluid, but I don't recommend it 'cause it's just regular old dinosaur juice. If you're in a pinch you can actually use any API GL-4 gear oil. Whatever you do, don't use API GL-5 gear oil or motor oil; they'll ruin your tranny.

Red Line is the best...
 

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White93Civic said:
Everything I've read recommends just using regular 10W-30 motor oil. Why will the motor oil ruin your transmission? Does it gunk it up or something? Thanks for the info.
10W30 motor oil is not well suited for transmission use because of two factors - shear stability and improper coefficient of friction. In other words, it's not made for trannies, it's made for engines. It doesn't lubricate gears, brass synchros and bushings very well, and what small amount of lubrication it does provide doesn't last very long. Consider it for use in emergencies only. That's what my CiViC manual says and Honda Corp is telling the truth here for once...

OEM tranny oil is okay, but it's dino juice. Red Line is the best. It's synthetic and will make your tranny last forever...
 

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hydramatic99 said:
BDC, would a synthetic 10w30 be an ok choice?
Yes, in an emergency. Motor oil is motor oil, and gear lube is gear lube. You shouldn't run gear lube in a motor, or motor oil in a gear box. Honda CiViC's use a transaxle design. That is, they have transmission gears and differential gears mixed together in a common gear box. Using the correct lubrication is critical to their longevity.

Yes, I know that trannies and differentials are supposed to use different lubes, so whichever oil you stick in there is technically a compromise. That's why you need to use a GOOD API GL-4 gear lube ONLY, which is made for transaxles. API GL-5 lube, which is made for differentials, will eat your tranny and so will motor oil, which, of course, is made for motors.

Sure, Red Line MTL/MT-90 synthetic gear oil costs around 8 bones a quart, but you only need 2-quarts to fill a CiViC transaxle. That's $16.00 to have the world's best gear lube in your ride.

I hope this is making sense. You can't go wrong with Red Line. Using Honda MTF, motor oil or GL-5 gear lube is just like waiting for a time-bomb to go off inside your tranny. Red Line oil is cheap compared to the price of replacing your transaxle, you know?
 

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pushVTEC said:
How long u think a tranny would last with 1 qt of fluid in it?
I see you wear your hat backwards [sig pic] so you're probably kinda confused, but why would you ask a question like that? What's that got to do with this discussion???
 

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kommon_sense said:
What is the advantage of using the redline tranny fluids?
Using synthetic oil in your ride is the single best thing you can do for its longevity. In other words, when you use synthetic oil, basically all wear ceases. Mobil 1 ran a BMW on rollers for 1,000,000 miles, took the engine apart and there was practically zero wear. I think one rod bearing was slightly out of spec.

The same 'no wear' situation applies to trannies, and Red Line synthetic gear oil is generally considered the best there is. I buy it at a racing shop where guys spend more on their [top fuel] blocks than I did for my CiViC! Red Line is the only oil they sell there, if that tells you anything....

If you want to read the scoop on Red Line gear oil:

http://www.redlineoil.com/products.htm

in the "SELECT A PRODUCT" box, choose "MANUAL TRANS"


If you want to read about the 1,000,000 BMW test:

http://www.mobil.com/cgi-bin/bld_frameset.cgi?CONTENT=/maff/world/uk/automotive/p6.htm

You can't go wrong with Mobil 1 in your engine and Red Line in the tranny...
 

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B16a2vtec95 said:
hey BDC to refill the mtf i heard you have to use so kind of hose to put it in? is that correct? how would i do it and where would i get the tube if it is correct?
I just use a funnel with a long flex hose. It's made for pouring oil into automatic transmissions. Or, you could use a pump and do it from underneath the car; like the ones they use for pumping gear lube into differentials. To me, the funnel is fastest and cleaner...
 

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CivicSiBeast said:
...hey BDC, whats wrong with GL5? Thats all they had at Kragan Autoparts.
GL-5 gears oils, which are required in most hypoid differentials, are NOT made to be used in synchromesh transmissions and transaxles because the chemicals used to provide the extreme pressure protection can be corrosive to synchronizers, which are commonly made of brass or bronze. GL-5 gear oil will eat your Honda tranny from the inside out, starting with the synchros!
  • BEWARE!!! Typically, the use of a GL-5 lubricant in a synchromesh transmission will shorten the synchronizer life by one half.
The extreme pressure requirements of spur gears and helical gears found in transmissions are not nearly as great as found in rear-wheel drive differentials. GL-4 lubricant provides adequate protection for most manual transmissions, unless a unique design consideration requires the extra protection of a GL-5. Generally speaking, you should NEVER use GL-5 gear oil in ANY transmission, but this is especially true with Honda transaxles.

While motor oils are much more fluid at lower temperatures than gear oils, and they are not corrosive toward synchros, they provide VERY poor gear protection. These lubricants provide almost no extreme-pressure protection. In addition, multigrade motor oils have very poor shear stability. The shearing action by a manual transmission on thickeners is much worse than in an engine. Within 5,000 miles the thickeners can be rendered ineffective and the transmission will be operating on a much reduced level of protection. In hot weather these transmissions will whine and rattle because of poor vibration dampening and metal contact.

Red Line MTL and MT-90 provides the excellent gear protection of a GL-4 gear oil in a synthetic base which spans hot and cold temperatures and will not shear or oxidize with use. The only difference is MT-90 is a little 'thicker' than MTL. Other than that, they use the same chemistry. Once again, Red Line synthetic gear oil is the bomb... ;)
 

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civic type r said:
BDC: when changing transmission fluid, (my 92 civic h/b dx), i believe you are supposed to have the car on level ground. when checking the level, level ground also. how were u able to add the fluid in your tranny with it level? or i mean, did u have a lift? cause i know if the car is at an angle, the fill bolt reading will be off..thanks !
If you are just checking it, like during a [motor] oil change, fluid should flow out of the 'fill' hole as soon as you remove the plug. If it doesn't, stick your 'pinky' in there. It should come out drenched in oil. If it doesn't, you definitely need to add oil.

Once again, when I change tranny oil, I drain it from underneath, but I refill it using a funnel with a long hose from the engine bay, with the car sitting flat on the ground. It takes a little less than 2 quarts of tranny fluid.

Really, I don't think it makes much difference whether the car is perfectly level or not when you check it, change it or whatever. If that is a concern for you, just put your ride on jacks when going through this procedure. It's probably safer doing it that way anyway, you know?
 

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asianpride559 said:
is that other stuff that much better?...
Yes, it IS that much better!

I bought my CiViC new. Right off 'the showroom', it was practically impossible to get into reverse. Worse yet, it would pop out of reverse with a BANG. I was told this was normal, and to give it a few miles. I did and it got worse.

At 9,000 miles I noticed the shifting was getting very 'notchy' for lack of a better word. Out of desperation and exasperation, I decided to change the tranny fluid and see if that would help. I did a LOT of research, and found out Red Line MTL was what a lot of racers were using. As a matter of fact, I had to buy it at a racing supply house; nobody else carried it.

Since then, my Honda dealer, Showcase Honda in Phoenix, has started carrying Red Line MTL and Neo 7W tranny oil in their parts department. This should lay to rest any concerns ppl have as to whether it these synthetic tranny oils will hurt your Honda transaxle and/or affect your warranty.

To make a long story short, I switched to Red Line MTL and ALL my shifting problems went away. My only concern was how 'thin' the oil was. So, in the summer months, I decided to use Red Line MT-90. I doubt if this makes any difference - it just makes ME feel better.

Bottom line is: I have almost 70,000 miles on my ride, and it shifts better now than it did when I drove it off 'the showroom.' The oil always comes out crystal clear when I change it; no sign of metal particles in it. This sh!t is the bomb!
 

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asianpride559 said:
the dealer carrys redline now? which redline should i get if i dont end up getting the Honda one? dont know why your car brand new had problems right off lot. mine dont have the reverse problem but i miss that feeling of that perfectly smooth shifting
For MOST ppl, Red Line MTL will work the best year 'round. With MT-90, you'll have to let the oil warm up for a couple of miles before slamming it through the gears.

I drive a LOT of highway miles in Arizona. This is one of the hottest places on Earth in the summer. I run Red Line MT-90 in the summer, for a little extra protection, but MTL would probably work fine. As I said, I do it for my own piece-of-mind as much as anything...

Red Line is the REAL thing. It isn't snake oil. You aren't going to find it most places. I would suggest you call around to drag race supply houses in your area. In this area, I buy it at Loper's Speed Shop. You can buy it on the Internet too. If you don't have any 'speed shops' in your area, the Internet will be your best option.
 

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asianpride559 said:
i got some redline mtl and that shits smooth in cold weather but still not as smooth as a brand new car....but oh well good enough...
Give it time. Believe me; it will ONLY get better. It's not a 'Silver Bullet.'
 

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asianpride559 said:
its better after using it for a while?
Well, this is anecdotal, so take it for what it's worth.

My tranny is smoother now than when i bought my car. It's smoother than when I started using Red Line tranny oil. I expect it to get smoother as long as I keep using Red Line oil.

When you use synthetic oil, wear is cut to practically zero. Heating and cooling metal makes it stronger; it's called "seasoning."

Put it all together and your tranny will probably start working better too. This is just my opinion, based on my experience. Only time will tell.. :cool:
 

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asianpride559 said:
how often do u change yours out? the place i bought from told me the oil last longer than my clutch and i never need to change until i put a new clutch in. have you tried there motor oil yet? hows that like?
As far as changing the tranny oil is concerned - I try to change all fluids every 15K. I don't have the time or inclination to figure out how long it's been since I changed the coolant, tranny fluid, brake fluid, power steering fluid, et cetera. I just change everything every 15,000 miles (including my spark plugs); cheap insurance, you know? This is what Red Line has to say about it:
SOURCE: http://www.redlineoil.com/redlineoil/mtlti.htm

...Being formulated with extremely stable synthetic basestocks, MTL and MT-90 will last much longer than conventional petroleum lubricants. However, we do not recommend extended drain intervals, since without a filtration system, there is no way to remove metal shavings other than draining the lubricant. The regular maintenance intervals are also recommended to insure that the proper level of the fluid is maintained...
On Red Line motor oil, MANY racers use Red Line motor oil, especially racers that don't have unlimited resources and sponsors to foot the bill for blown engines.

SOURCE: http://www.worldspeed.com/Sponsors.htm

...Red Line Oil's widespread race-winning experience includes NASCAR, IMSA, NHRA, SCCA, Indy, Toyota Atlantic, Off-shore boats, Unlimited Hydroplanes, IJSBA personal watercraft, snowmobile racing, all forms of motorcycle racing and aircraft competition...
Please, take my/their word for this. I don't feel like running all over the web looking for links to prove it...

Personally, I run Mobil 1. If you'll notice, most F1 racecars sport Mobil 1 decals.
Mobil 1 motor oil is more than adequate for Honda 4-bangers. Red Line motor oil is no doubt better. However, while I don't mind spending $8/qt for tranny oil, I can't bring myself to spend that much on motor oil, especially when (in the long run) it won't make any difference in a street engine. i.e. less wear and longer life.

If you're a 'weekend warrior', then Red Line motor oil is the way to go. If you drive mostly on the street, use Mobil 1.

BTW, I run Mobil 1 5W30/Red Line MTL in the winter, and Mobil 1 10W30/Red Line MT-90 in the summer. Once again, for most ppl, Mobil 1 5W30/Red Line MTL would be the best combination year 'round.
 

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asianpride559 said:
thats wat im running now mobil 1 5w30. but the price for redline motor oil is high but they said that i could go 12000 miles without changing. you heard anything bout this?
When I run dinosaur juice - like in my Dodge minivan - I change it every 2k. It's the 'cheap insurance' thingie again.

In my CiViC, I change the Mobil 1 every 5k. Honda recommends 7,500 miles with dino juice, so I figure it's safe. I know it's a psychological defect or something, but I can't go any longer than that. I feel bad changing it at 5k, but it's sort of an experiment at this point; engine is doing fine; I'm a nervous wreck...

As far as Red Line motor oil goes, this is what 'they' say:
...Because of the robust polyester base stock and high-performance anticorrosive additive package in Red Line [motor] oils, they are ideal for use in street-driven vehicles at extended drain intervals. Red Line recommends oil changes for engines that are in good condition and do not see frequent starts without warm-ups or short-trips at between 10,000 and 18,000 miles for gasoline engines... or every 12 months, whichever is shorter...
So, let your conscience be YOUR guide. Personally, I couldn't go that long, but...
 

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hopeful said:
...bdc, why is there a Neon posing as a cop car in your sig? :p
I give up. Why?
 
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