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I got a Rockford Fosgate Punch 500a² and would like to know were I can get it repaired in the Bay Area?

All I know is that one day going to work my RF door speaker went mute and started to smoke. Later that day I check the right out and compared it the the left channel. The Left look like A/C current from .5 to 4 volts, but the right had 21 volts D/C.
 

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that one civic said:
i wasn't even aware that an amp could be repaired. i always figured that once it's fried, it's fried, and you just have to buy a new one.
So, how many have you tossed in the trash?;)

It all depends, sometimes if it's fried bad enough it can't be fixed. Some quality amps have protection circuitry that helps contain the damage before the whole amp is ruined. the reason most people don't bother is that you have to pay like $35 to get the amp opened up and inspected/tested, and then if they determine it cant be fixed you're out the money for nothing, so they don't risk that. If it is fixable they usually include that inspection fee in the repair bill. Also, if you have a problem that costs $100 to fix, you might fix it on a $800 amp, but on a $150 it's not worth it.
 

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Of course if you are a weenie like this guy I got a Soundstream amp from, a fuse can't stop you from ruining your amp. Just spill your Coke right into the chassis and bang! It's blown. Thankfully there were fuses built into it that saved it from severe damage, just killed a resistor and 2 transistors. If the board isn't seriously fried that can be overcome too. There are little trace wires you can solder in to bypass burnt circuits inside the board.

So what did you install?
 

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it's a Jensen LXA400. 100w X 4 @ 4 ohms, i forget what the RMS and bridged specs are. it's pretty good for what i'm running, cause i just have it hooked up to some 200w 3-channel Pioneer 6 1/2" speakers in the front, and a 375w 8" Jensen sub (in a tube) in the trunk (rear speakers are just hooked up to the deck). the only problem so far is that i think the sub is blown because it's making these really wierd vibrations (i had it wired up incorrectly at first, and i think a surge went through it the first time i turned it on). that's not a big deal though, cause i can return it and get a new one (thank you Wal Mart!!!!!!!!). =P

one question i do have concerning the amp though (and yes i realize that i really should start a new thread for this) is about the install location. i bolted it to the trunk tray (that stupid piece of plywood that goes over the spare tire), but i really want to bolt it (vertically) to the back of the back bench seat so i can get some of my trunk space back. the instructions say to not do this, but would that really harm the amp much?
 

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Amps won't shed heat out properly if they are upside down, which it technically is if it's screwed to a seatback. Some can handle it, others can't, but no amp manufacturer recommends that. As you know heat rises, so the heat sink needs to be on top or the heat will transfer back into the amp and shut it off, unless it has no thermal protection in which case it will pop.

If you made like a wood plate with some of those angle brackets so it stood upright, you could mount the amp over on the side of the trunk standing up attached to the wood plate, and the brackets bolted down to the trunk floor...know what I'm saying?
 
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