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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am looking for more ways to cool down my GSR... I was wondering if Greddy's Cooling Plates are worth it... has anyone run these and do they have any good feedback? So far I've ordered: Mugen thermostat, Mugen fan switch, Mugen radiator cap... any suggestions on which radiator to run? And is Red Line's Water Wetter any good? Does it work?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
A cool car is a happy car...lol. I just figured it would help with the cooling... not caring about horsepower with those parts... just cooling. If you have any suggestions about what I should have ordered instead that would have been better... please let me know... I just ordered them today, I can call and cancel if you know any better stuff for cooling. I just ordered from kingmotorsports.com
 

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i remembered when i ran a koyo full alum. radiator, spoon cap, spoon thermo, spoon fan switch, spoon hoses, and beatrush cooling plate....my car was never even 1/4th warm haha.

then i swapped to a half core and damn my car overheats quick HAHA. *sigh*

the panel does really little....unless you're really going.

best stuff to cool is:

AEBS water pump:

 

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You need to do some research before dumping money into the cooling system. When my thermostat was stuck open, the temperature needle was always a hair above C. If it helped for the engine to be as cold as possible, then engines wouldn't even need thermostats, but it is possible for an engine to run too cool. In this case, the engine oil wears differently and the metal parts do not expand as much as they would at the temperature they were designed to function. Accelerated wear is the result. The stock thermostat keeps your engine at the right temperature and you will not benefit by using the Mugen, which keeps it a few degrees cooler.

Water wetter is to be used in race engines that use water instead of coolant. 100% water absorbs heat better than 50/50, but even with water wetter, does not protect against corrosion as well as coolant. If you want to take care of your engine, use the green coolant and not the long life BS.

My advice is to cancel your order and replace cooling parts as they fail. If your engine is not overheating, then don't fix what isn't broken. If you want piece of mind, then replace your radiator cap with a stock one. Depending on your mileage, you will inevitably need to replace the radiator, as the plastic tanks will fail. If you want, you can buy an all aluminum one before this happens. Like I said, you should also switch to the green coolant if you haven't already.
 

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flyingtoaster said:
You need to do some research before dumping money into the cooling system. When my thermostat was stuck open, the temperature needle was always a hair above C. If it helped for the engine to be as cold as possible, then engines wouldn't even need thermostats, but it is possible for an engine to run too cool. In this case, the engine oil wears differently and the metal parts do not expand as much as they would at the temperature they were designed to function. Accelerated wear is the result. The stock thermostat keeps your engine at the right temperature and you will not benefit by using the Mugen, which keeps it a few degrees cooler.

Water wetter is to be used in race engines that use water instead of coolant. 100% water absorbs heat better than 50/50, but even with water wetter, does not protect against corrosion as well as coolant. If you want to take care of your engine, use the green coolant and not the long life BS.

My advice is to cancel your order and replace cooling parts as they fail. If your engine is not overheating, then don't fix what isn't broken. If you want piece of mind, then replace your radiator cap with a stock one. Depending on your mileage, you will inevitably need to replace the radiator, as the plastic tanks will fail. If you want, you can buy an all aluminum one before this happens. Like I said, you should also switch to the green coolant if you haven't already.

:number1
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the info... that's a nice water pump. So, loose the Mugen parts? Can do. Thanx.
 

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Unless your car is overheating your stock cooling system is fine.

You want the engine as hot as it can get without detonating/deteriorating/experiencing oil issues.

Remember...we are trying to blow shit up inside our engines.

Cooler isn't better. Cooler AIR is better...but that's something different.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Good stuff... I appreciate the input. Thanx
 

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gurusan said:
Unless your car is overheating your stock cooling system is fine.

You want the engine as hot as it can get without detonating/deteriorating/experiencing oil issues.

Remember...we are trying to blow shit up inside our engines.

Cooler isn't better. Cooler AIR is better...but that's something different.
And just to add to what has been said, you want the car to be at operating temps. If you set it lower then stock (which is what happens with those parts) then your car will never reach operating temps and can stay running in open loop. Which in turn runs rich because it reads off the preset fuel map instead of off the primary O2 sensor .
 
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