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Discussion Starter #1
Just wondering if im heading in the right direction.



Skunk2 B-series B16-B18C VTEC Camshafts TURBO Stage 2+
$599


Supertech Bronze Valve Guides
$64


Skunk2 Tuner Series valve springs for B-series VTEC engine
$204.99


Skunk2 Pro Series B & H-series Titanium Retainers
$159.99


Skunk2 B-series VTEC Forged Valve Set (Hi-Comp)
$286.99


Skunk2 B-series / H23 Cam Gears Blue
$199.99




Toda Timing Belt Honda B16A
$165.99


Skunk2 Billet Cam Seals
$54.00


Buddy Club Racing Spec Head Gasket 2.0mm B16/18
$178.20


ARP Head Studs - B16A
$137.00


Skunk2 VTEC Solenoid Cap (92+)
$26.99


Honda B-series VTEC Timing Belt Tensioner
$60.00



Blox FMU Type B (12:1 Ratio)
$115.00




Field SFC-Hyper R Fuel Controller
$149.00




AEM High Volume Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulators - Civic / Integra / Prelude / Accord
$177.80


Walbro 255LPH Fuel Pump
$109.00


Skunk2 Carbon Composite Fuel Rail - B-series
$185.99


Skunk2 Pro Series B16A-B/B17A/B18C5 Intake Manifold
$209.99


Hondata Intake Manifold Gasket - B16A/B18C5
$50.00


Blox Billet Aluminum Throttlebody with TPS Sensor
$275.00


Honda B-series Oil Pump
$113.00


Hasport Billet Stock Replacement Mounts Kit 90-91 Integra & 92-93 GSR
$359.10


Supertech High Performance Forged Pistons
$390


Drag Turbo Kit - B series

The turbo kit incls Drag high flow 4 into 1 cast iron turbo exhaust manifold, turbonetics t4/t3 high flow turbocharger assembly, turbonetics deltagate mark ii wastegate (7 psi spring), Drag high flow front mount intercooler w/ polished cast aluminum end tanks, blow off valve, Drag mandrel bent high flow chrome plated intercooler pipes,

Drag mandrel bent high flow exhaust down pipe, Drag wastegaste dump tube assembly, Drag blue silicone hose and hose clamps, Drag high pressure/high volume inline fuel pump, Drag boost dependent fmu fuel regulator, intake air filter assembly, map sensor bypass valves, stainless steel braided oil feed line w/ fittings, oil return assembly,hardware and fittings,hose and hose clamps,gaskets and installation manual.
$2699.00


Hondata S300 Base
$575

Don't know which one of these ecu management systems i should use.

AEM EMS - 92-95 OBD1 Civic/Delsol/Integra/Prelude/Accord
$1534.50




Buddy Club Secu-Timer - Black
$139.50


Skunk2 MegaPower Exhaust 70mm Acura Integra 1994-01 RS/LS/GS-R/Type-R Coupe
$515.99


toatl:8360.51


just wondering if this is all capatible with my motor and where i can find some retainers and rockers.
 

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First, I would suggest you check out some other sorta recent threads about turbo'd B-Series with respect to turbo sizing. Any idea what trim that T3/T4 is? Try not to look at anything above a 50 trim, unless you're totally a top-end power only junky like myself heh heh.

A nice turbo build that is reliable on a B-Series with a good tune, and 300whp should never go over $3500 in my opinion. Is that your goal? 300whp is what your motor can take on a good tune in stock form (if the motor is in good condition...i.e. good maintenance history, good compression numbers).

The ONLY tuning paraphernalia you should have it a chipped/socketed OBD1 ECU with OBD2-OBD1 conversion harness if needed. Then find a good tuner that tunes with Crome or Uberdata or Neptune etc etc. To go with that, all you'll need is properly sized injectors, a 255lph fuel pump, and the FMU if you really want, but it shouldn't be the only means of tuning.

Depending on your goals, you DO NOT need ANY of the parts (except for the FMU as mentioned above) you listed before the Walbro Fuel Pump. You also need to do research on to what these parts are. Your AEM FPR isn't needed as an FMU is just an FPR for a turbo setup.

Upgraded valvetrain is a nice luxury if you have the money (retainers/springs is all you would need). Definitely not required. The intake manifold is nice, the Hondata gasket is as well. 3.5" exhaust is a must. Open dump tube would be nice as well, but it's loud. Only get motor mounts if your stock ones are dunzo...but they are important if your current ones are weak...you'll end up with cracked header bolts probably.

Finally, the pistons only if you want to be realy conservative and go with a slightly lower compression, but high octane fuel and a good tune will be safe enough without issue.

Anyways, you still have a crapload of research to do on the subject, and reading of other threads about the same topic. List your goals for the vehicle, and you will narrow down your parts search incredibly.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
well my goal is to obtain around 450-500whp and just wondering what compreshion i should have as well for forced induction to reach my goal thanks for all the help.
 

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Well, if you have that $8,000 budget, you should look into semi-high compression, semi-high boost, and the glue that holds all that together safely: Water-Meth Injection. You'll need Pistons, Rods, all ARP hardware, 1000cc injectors, T3/T4 60 trim (or an equivalent Garrett piece if you want to spend the money), upgraded valvetrain IMO, and of course, top of the line bolt ons (including fully custom turbo manifold...your choice of top mount, bottom mount, ramhorn, custom design etc., Open dump tube, custom 3" exhaust or larger, an Edelbrock Intake Manifold of your choice...other tidbits).

The nice thing is that the best tune you can get it still close to free plus the costs of actually being on the dyno, and hiring a tuner for an hour to two.

Without Water/Meth, you'll need to get much lower compression pistons to go along with high octane, and maybe some more compression lowering like a thicker head gasket.

Look into Electronic boost controller (or manual if you want the same boost levels wherever you go), all the necessary gauges to keep an eye on things, and finally....if you have the choice...try to grab a B18 instead. If not, keep the B16, I wouldn't bother with turning the B16 into a 1.8 or 2.0L unless you're really feeling adventurous.

Before you start though, have a good chat with a local builder/shop/tuner. They'll let you know what's available locally, and what they like to use to tune/build, and you won't end up buying stuff for nothing.

Edit: To answer your question directly, I would ballpark compression at maybe a point or two below stock (not sure exactly what the B16A is stock....I know the B18C1 is ~10.2:1). With water/meth, you can get away with 12-13 @ 20psi and above on nice sized turbos. I would suggest finding a sweet Garrett turbo instead of the T3/T4 that comes with the kit. The only thing you'd use from the kit is the piping...and maybe the BOV and wastegate, but you may want to upgrade anyways.
 
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