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Discussion Starter #1
so i am looking around for parts, and dammit there isnt a whole lot of fun stuff for the B18A (like a JRSC), so now i am either thinking of swapping out my B18A and swapping in a B16A OR buying another CRX and dropping in the B16A into that one (i think the latter is more likely to happen), so tell me what you guys think?
 

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I would keep the b18a I've seen them beat b16a's.You can do many things to make it faster, (cams, fuel pressure reg., type R intake manifold, put a race pipe on, get a better intake) that would make you alot more faster.Don't get discuraged they are great motors.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
haha...nah that project will be even funner due to the fact that the 1990 HF was lighter then the 1991, but as for my car, i guess i just need to ride in a B16a rex to see how it feels, because i do like my car, just looking at the lack of power adders for the car that are available from japan, however i am going to PORTFLOW the 98 LS head i have in my garage and probably get the crower 62404 cams (1200-8500 rpm powerband) change the hedder and get the Place Racing CAI (it is made for the LS in the CRX, which means it has 2 ports TIG welded to the upper part of the pipe, and i will slap on the CARB sticker that i have...hehehehe)....so maybe i will just buy another CRX and drop a b16, that is if my thirst for the VR-4 dont overcome that.............
 

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B16 CRX, sotck for stock, equal drivers, will ALWAYS beat a B18a/b CRX...... same year of course.....
 

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ya....if you do the same amount of stuff to a B16 CRX that you do to a b18a crx then you willlways have more power/faster car than the b18a. Torque is good and great but believe me HP is very nice...mixed with a light car its a fun combo.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
hmmm.......i think i will get my VR-4 first then buy another rex and drop a b16a...that way i can have the best of both worlds
 

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Like they said in the latest issue of SCC, power is for racing, torque is for burnouts. Believe me, the B16A is MUCH better in the quarter mile than the B18A. I myself used to have a B16A and B18B simultaneously in two different cars. And I can tell you right now that the B16A was MUCH better. I personally found that the torque of the B18A was not all it was cracked up to be. And the top end just plain sucked. I am certainly no fan of the LS.

If you want more power AND some great torque, consider a B20. Since you already have the mount kit and transmission, it will drop right in. Get yourself a Skunk2 intake manifold and you are SET!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
PROBLEM IS THIS....I HAVE RACED B16 REXXES (WITH DRIVERS OF MY SAME SKILL LEVEL) AND BEAT THEM..........IM JUST GONNA KEEP THE LS (PLUS THE JDM B16 IS AUTOMATIC FAIL AT THE BAR)....AND SAVE UP FOR A LANCER EVO....NO MORE VR-4..........
 

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h22apower said:
I would keep the b18a I've seen them beat b16a's.You can do many things to make it faster, (cams, fuel pressure reg., type R intake manifold, put a race pipe on, get a better intake) that would make you alot more faster.Don't get discuraged they are great motors.
I beg differ, i think its a fair motor at best. I would consider the b16 or the b18c a good motor. If you dont like the b16 because of its lack of torque, you can get it resleeved and bore it out to 85 mm from the stock 81. With this you'd have about 1.79 liters of displacment, and it would still have that 1.74 R/S ratio, which means you can rev the shiet outta it. I would take this b16 over a b18c for that reason any day, also its about 1-2 grand cheaper
 

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Go Hybrid !!

Use the B18 block and put the B16 head on it. Youll get higher compression and a better spark knock. Thats the Frankenstien Hybrid so you get more hp and torque which is the best of both worlds. Then you can add that JRSC and sell the other intake manifold, or even better get the JG Eldebrook Intake manifold with the 2 Stage Nitros ports. I have had the JRSC in the past and didnt like it to much, I just think I should of went with a T3 turbo and simple Nitros kit.
 

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b16 or b18a/b, no hybrids. by the way...forget the edlebrock manifold, little/if any gains over the skunk2 are not worth the $75+ you'll pay for it, depending on where you go.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
READ MY SIG...............
 

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If the B18A is so much better than the B16A, then why was my B18B (the better 1.8 liter non-VTEC) such a dog compared to my B16A? Also, there is more than driver skill when it comes to ETs. First of all, there is vehicle weight. Of course a 1988 HF with an LS is going to beat a 1991 SI with a B16A. Also, never underestimate the effect of bolt-ons. This is something that seems to escape alot of people. For instance, the stock airbox is quite a big restriction with the D16A6. This changes to a MAJOR restriction with a B-motor. The same goes for the exhaust. Also, don't underestimate the importance of the suspension setup and tires/wheels. What I am trying to say here is that if you take two cars of the same weight with the same bolt-on mods, the same tires/wheels, and the same suspension setup, the B16A will ALWAYS be faster. PERIOD!!

As for the Edelbrock intake manifold, this is a race only product. The ad for it specifically states that it is made to optimize power between 7000-10000RPM. Given the fact that the 7000RPM minimum is 200RPM above the rev limit for a B18A/B18B, it would be foolish to even consider purchasing this intake manifold for a basically stock B18A/B18B/B20.
 

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One more thing to keep in mind. There is no good intake manifold for the B18A. Unless you change the head, that is. The 1990-1993 B18A has MUCH smaller intake ports than the newer B18B or B20. And any aftermarket intake manifold you get is going to be matched to the newer, larger ports.
 

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B-SIXTEEN! The parts are more abundant and you'd spend less $$ than trying to work the B18 to get the same amount of power or trying to get more power than the B16. Especially when you can practically buy a B16 with almost everything needed to get it into the rex, since it came from Japan that way.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
that was the whole point that i was thinking about swapping out the b18a and putting in a b16a was the abundance of JDM parts, however JDM motors are automatic fail with the BAR....and read the second line in my sig..........
 

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You can always get a 1994-1995 USDM Del Sol B16A. I have one in my 1988 DX, wired with the USDM P30 ECU. This setup is completely legal in California (I have a BAR sticker).
 

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Discussion Starter #19
yeah thats the other thing....i got the BAR sticker for my LS.....i wouldnt wanna go through the hassle again...........fuck it the CRX is just about done.........time to save for the LANCER EVOLUTION
 
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