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You could sum it up that way if you want. But if you look a little deeper, it might be better to say that the B16A is better allmotor and the B18A/B18B is better for forced induction out of the box. But if you lower the compression of a B16A, it would be better for forced induction due to its stronger design, better rod ratio, oil squirters, and knock sensor.
 

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so the B18b is not a really great motor until it is F/Ied? i was looking into getting the B18 block and throwing a B16a head on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
StorminMatt said:

If you are even thinking about a B18B, why not consider a B20Z? This is what I replaced my disappointing B18B with. And I can tell you that it is WORLDS better. It actually DOES have alot of torque. And it has enough power for the motor to actually hold its own in the quarter mile against a B16A. The B20Z is a GREAT motor that does NOT disappoint. Unlike some motors out there.
Wow thanks. How much more expensive is this swap? Is it a direct fit or does it need fabrication (motor mounts etc.), how rare is it, and how difficult are parts to find?
 

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the longblock is about $800...then you need a b series transmission, and intake manifold cause as i understand it the b20 intake manifoldwont fit right in the civic chassis...
 

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Hayan Namja said:
It all comes down to speed...so in the same car stock to stock, which would be faster. I've driven an LS'ed hatch and it pulled, it also felt faster than a b16'd hatch, but it's hard to tell. I don't want to go with a B16 and be like every other hatch....
I think that we are getting a little off track from the original question here folks. Neways, stock Vs. stock they are both fairly similar in the 1/4mi. It mainly depends on driver. As far as the B18B having a wider power-band, that is false. The whole reason behind VTEC is to have a larger power-band, hence the reason for two sets of lobes for each cylinder. A short lift lobe and a high lift lobe. One for low rpm's and one for high rpm's, respectivley. As far as for F/I, it all depends on how much work(tuning) u want to put into the project. The B16A can hold 14psi with the stock internals if you tune correctly with a stand-alone. And if you are pressed on having low-compression for boost, you can get a thicker head gasket from Inline-pro. http://207.150.221.91/ws-inlinepr/
The B16A has a far superior rod/stroke ratio of 1.74, 1.75 being perfect, that will yeild a much longer life on the engine. This Vs. the B18B's poor r/s of 1.58. Im tired of typing so im just gonna get to the point, The B16A is a superior motor. It all depends on how much money, time, and effort you wanna put into the car.
 

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HIGH compression WITH forced induction.. all you have to do is invest 400$ on dyno runs and youll be pretty damn fast. lower you compression if you are not a tuning guy or money to invest in tuning equipment...
 

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circuitsports said:
Actually each cylinder has three lobes for vtec engines. Also a rod stroke ration mainly comes into play at ranges that are beyond a stock 7K redline where the extra TQ of the LS has already made the difference though the b16 gearbox is a better trans for N/A applications.

www.circuitsports.net
First, the two outside lobes act as one. Second, the r/s comes into play at any rpm, it is only most significant at high rpms. Lastly, the B16A makes up for the lack of torque qith high-revving horsepower. I agree that the B16A tranny is better suited for n/a applications.
 

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I love my turbo LS in my CRX.... I think that you should take whatever you can afford. for smog reasons you might want to go with a B16a, cuz us B18A/Bers can't pass shit with different cams in.
 

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Stock vs stock, the B16A is definitely faster in the quarter mile. I have had both and tried both. As for rod ratios, the B18B does not have a rod ratio of 1.58:1. Try more like 1.54:1. As for the LS-VTEC, this is a great way to spice up the otherwise dowdy B18B. The only catch here is that you really need to build the bottom end if you wish for it to live long and prosper.
 

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When you are talking about quarter mile times, more hp is better and the b16 has a 20 hp advantage over the b18b which translates into better times. Why do you think the Si is quicker than the Ls? I rather boost with the b16 instead of the B18b because of the higher compression! Newbies boost with low compression engines, the more experience ppl boost with the higher compression ones. That said, its in all in the tuning and the b16 wins.

Another thing about the transmissions, I rather have the b16 tranny instead of the LS because i prefer to stay in high RPMs when racing, which is even more important if you have a turbo because most of its power are in the higher rev ranges. Again, it takes more skill to work with a close ratio transmissions then wider ones, but the dividends will pay at the end meaning shorter times.
 

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Speaking of transmissions, keep in mind that using a B16A transmission on a B18A/B18B is not a good setup for a daily driven car. Even the Y1 and YS1 will cause the engine to run at 4500RPM on the freeway at 80MPH. And the S1/J1 will produce revs of 4800RPM at the same speed! Although the B16A is built for this and can handle it for hours on end every day of the week, the B18A/B18B is NOT. This sort of abuse will KILL a B18A/B18B. So consider a B18A/B18B combo a city car only. Or better yet, consider it race only.
 

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As you all notice you get a variety of responses when it comes to engine choices and I think they're all good choices for their own particular good reasons... The real question you should be asking first is what is your particular driving style and for what duty is the engine for... The B16A can be built to have the mad low-end torque of a B18B and the B18B can be built to have the screamin' high end power of a B16A vice versa, etc... Everything is possible depending on your budget and preference of use...

General rule usually is for kick-ass bottom and mid-range power use the B18B, for mid-range to top-end power use the VTEC versions of the B-series, for the best of both worlds Hell LS or CRVtec... But who says you have to stay by these rules? Hell don't forget that there are D-series engines out there that can also kick the pants out of the DOHC VTEC Hybrids any day when purpose built and setup to do so; even in daily driving. Imagine the possibilities when they're boosted... Just a thought =)
 

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I personally like my LS tranny. If I am at 80 on the freeway I am still boosting and still get :D slammed into my seat like a beetch :D . I would not like to be at 4500-5000 rpms with a Y1 and slam the gas with this setup... I would probably break my freaking neck. :laff:

that and my gas milage would go down to nothing. I still get around 30mpg if I don't get on it that much.
 
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