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Yes,

You'll need from the donor car, hubs, calipers, axles, ECU, shifter, engine wiring harness as well as interior harness and guage cluster, need to modify the drivers side frame rail for the alternator pully clearence, you might need to have a custom made knuckle for the B18 axles that will hold the bottom of the strut, don't know for sure on that.

It's a lot of work, but if it is your dream, go for it.


HTH

Donnie
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
yea thanks....i figured that...i don't know, its just that no one really does them around here where i live and i think that it would be one hell of a car...and i like the old school look
 

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Integra,

Here are the options and what is needed generally to do the swap.


1. Engines that bolt in.
-D15A? = stock 84-87 Si motor. Light, 1.5L, no power, no torque, no
point.

-D16A1 = Stock 86-87 Integra Engine. 1.6L 125HP, ? torque, not a bad
choice, particularly for forced induction due to relatively low
compression ratios and easy availability via junkyards. Needs axles
+ hubs from an integra too. Can use stock wiring + ecu, although not
recommended. IMHO easiest swap. See hybrid.honda-perf.org for help
with this one.

-D16A1 (2) = Stock 88-89 Integra Engine. 1.6L 130HP, ? torque, not a
bad choice either. I break this off from the above because it is
basically the same engine with marginally higher compression ratios
and DIFFERENT WIRING. Marginally more of a pain but still pretty
simple.

-BROWN VALVE COVER ZC- all the engine import shops can get their paws
on TWO ZCs. The black valve cover ZC is NOT THE ONE YOU WANT FOR
1Gen!!! USE BROWN VALVE COVER FOR 1GEN!!! The brown valve cover ZC
is basically a JDM equivalent of the USDM D16A1. Everything above
about D16A1s apply here. nippon-motors.com told me $495 for the
engine, no tranny or ECU. I got my tranny from a junked 'teg.

2. With an engine mount kit, serious amount of wiring, a new ECU you
can have:
-B16A1- 160HP, ?torque, Vtec, a nice choice period. JDM Civic SiR
engine. Fairly lightweight compared to stock engine. Easily
available from JDM engine importers, ~$500 for engine only, ~$900
engine/tranny/ecu, optional LSD tranny available for $250-500 extra.
With Hasport or Place Racing mounts, this thing will bolt up. It is
a much more involved swap then the D16/ZC, but you get a lot more
motor. Hasport can help with custom wiring harnesses if you aren't
feelin adventurous. Be prepared to spend more than the engine cost
you on mounts, axles, intermediate shafts, hub/knuckle assemblies,
and custom wiring harnesses. Even if you get junkyard parts, this is
still an expensive swap.

-B18B/B1-?HP, gobs of torque, non-vtec, decent amount of cash. Some
people report clearance problems necessitating a custom hood. Nice
engine for forced induction. Everything above about axles, etc
applies here. Wiring can be tricky.

-B17- ?HP, ?torque, cheap and rare B18C1 ish VTEC 1.7L engine. Nice
choice for people looking to get B18 torque w/o B18C prices. Wiring
easier compared to B18C1 + B18C5

-B18C1-170HP, 128ftlbs of torque. Integra GSR engine, 1.8L, Vtec,
Nice all round engine. Lacks the compression ratio and SERIOUS
performance internals of a B18C5, but normally can be had for several
thousand less. Think 2-3.5Grand for engine/tranny/ECU. Think hard
about wiring because this car needs a OBDI or OBII ECU, which is a
lot different from the wiring in a 1Gen.

-B18C5- ~200HP, gobs of torque. Integra Type R engine, 1.8L Vtec,
built to be driven. SERIOUS engine. SERIOUS price. Think $5000+
for JDM ITR engine/tranny/ECU. Serious wiring headache as above. If
you wanna be super cool, then this is the engine for you. BE
WARNED! I think hasport says the ITR tranny is incompatible with
their mount kit. Your mileage may vary, but if you are even
considering this swap you probably have enough money to burn you are
a sick lunatic.

-B20 / B20Vtec - ?HP, More torque than any other NA honda engine.
2.0L non-vtec. With a head swap, you have Vtec and a very powerful
engine. You can bolt B20s in to a 1G with the hasport mounts, and
the ehad swap is well documented elsewhere. expect to pay about
$1000 for a stock B20. Wiring probably will be somewhat of a
headache due to how new most of these engines are, but I haven't
really investigated this swap for the 1G (although I'm doing it for
my 2G rex)

3. You are insane and you can custom-fabricate mounts.

-H23 - one word. Why?

-H23/H22 head swap - two words: You're nuts!

-H22 - Well, if you don't feel like being able to steer the car due
to weight problems but you just have to have 2.2L of displacement and
torque, be my guest. I've seen pics of H22s stuffed into a 1G but
that really sounds scary to me. Good luck on the wiring too!

-Exotics. If you have money to burn, light it on fire. When you are
done, post pictures of how you stuffed a Chevy 502 into the engine
bay by welding a cage to the front end of your car.

Hope that helped a bit.
Here are some links that will help you much in your decisions:
-Engine specs thanks to hybird http://hybrid.honda-
perf.org/tech/engine.html
-1Gen Swaps with B series engines thanks to hasport
http://www.hasport.com/85-87si_B16_Swap_Outline.htm
-Nippon motors who consistently have brown valve cover ZC engines for
$495 http://www.nipponmotors.com
-Honda Motors online intermittently has brown valve cover ZC engines
and has REALLY good prices on B16s http://www.hondamotorsonline.com


Cheers,


Donnie
 
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