[Sinister_IS]

Hey i was wondering if anyone had a b20vtec?
i was thinking about doing it and putting a JRSC on it.
what are your numbers thanks

 

[B20VTECHB]

i have a b20 it run good

 

[MR2KSi]

Personally I would run a b20 (CRV) block with a GSR or b16 head. With high lift cams, Port and polish, High Compression pistons, etc. you will have an ALL MOTOR MONSTER. If you are interested in a b20 block do your research. Good luck.

 

[unidextrous]

I have a b20 vtec motor, and it runs well. I still havent seen one superchraged, but i have seen ls/vtec motors both turbo and supercharged. the b20 bottom end is pretty much a LS bottom end ported and sleeved by honda, so i dont see a problem in doing it. look into lowering the compression if u do superchrage it. also...i i know a guy w/ a straight b20/turbo setup. that shiet rips ass.

 

[MR2KSi]

Unidextrous, what do you have done to your motor? Sounds sweet, and in a hatch that thing must fly..

 

[unidextrous]

ive only had the motor for about a month. so far, i just have 6 puck clutch, gsr cams, and tanabe exhaust. i still got a long way to go, but its still pulls hard.

 

[dumpsi]

im really planning to turn my b16a2 into a b20/vtec in my civic coupe. i have skunk2 cams and sprockets, act clutch, dc headers, and b&m fuel pressure. when i do my b20/vtec and planning to also get high compression piston(je 11:1 piston). do you think i will break 13's?

 

[MR2KSi]

unidextrous sounds good. I think a JDM style 2.5" collector header will really help you out. Also some nice high lift cams will make your ride pull much harder. Skunk2 intake manifold also sounds good. Any reliability problems? Are you burning oil? etc. I am asking because I would like to do a CRV/VTEC in the future. Thanks. Dumpsi I think you should get into the 13s with a CRV/VTEC in your hatch. Good luck.

 

[Sinister_IS]

Question whats ur redline with a b20/vtec?

 

[MR2KSi]

I think redline varies with what head you have and also how your motor's built. If you install high compression pistons, eagle forged rods and high lift cams, etc.(ex. JUN Stage 3s cams) then your redline is gonna be somewhat high, roughly 9k rpm. Also how your ECU is programmed is gonna be another important factor (fuel and timing maps).

 

[dumpsi]

did anyone bore out there head when doing a b20/vtec? i heard that you lose performance if you dont and and you have a chance of blowing the motor up. is this true?

 

[1Fast99Si]

The new CRV with the i-VTEC has a 2.4 liter engine. I'd love to throw that in a new 2002 civic coupe and then turbo it. Talk about a beast in a car that is hurting for some power.

 

[MugenSi00]

I'm headed down the fully built boosted b20/vtec setup myself. $14k in all.

 

[jdmsijdm]

The new CRV with the i-VTEC has a 2.4 liter engine. I'd love to throw that in a new 2002 civic coupe and then turbo it. Talk about a beast in a car that is hurting for some power.

there is a shop about and hour from me that is doing this with a 2002 coupe and an RSX motor. Im not sure if its the base or the type S, but they got a 2001 or 2002 civic coupe with a blown motor, and bought a totalled RSX with no damage to the drivetrain from an auction. There building it right now though thats all i know.

 

[LudeAction]

the crv engine 2.4 only has like 160 hp...get a rsx Ts if ur gonna swap....well the new accord is getting a 2.4 with like 230-240 hp..wait for that new civ owners

 

[dumpsi]

MUGENSI00, what kind of mods are you getting for $14k and what your hoping to break in the 1/4 mile?

since your doing a fully built b20/vtec, i guess you'll bore out your head to match the b20 block. i dunno should i bore out my head to match the b20 block because im in a budget rite now and i want to do a b20/vtec and i want to know should i do that? what could happen if i dont bore my head? is it really really recommended because i know some people who didnt bore out there head and it's running fine but some people tell me that if i dont bore my head it could cause detonation. is that true?

 

[MugenSi00]

MUGENSI00, what kind of mods are you getting for $14k and what your hoping to break in the 1/4 mile?

since your doing a fully built b20/vtec, i guess you'll bore out your head to match the b20 block. i dunno should i bore out my head to match the b20 block because im in a budget rite now and i want to do a b20/vtec and i want to know should i do that? what could happen if i dont bore my head? is it really really recommended because i know some people who didnt bore out there head and it's running fine but some people tell me that if i dont bore my head it could cause detonation. is that true?

Taken directly from crvtec's site "The B20 blocks, the bore is 84 mm. and most B series VTEC cylinder heads, the bore is 81 mm. This means that if you were to use a B16A head, there will be a small lip around the top of the deck created by the smaller cylinder head. This difference will affect performance and increase the chance for detonation. If you don't take advantage of the breathing afforded by the larger bore (opening the chamber up), you're losing a lot of the benefits of the combination."


As for me, my car is a daily driven show car. I'm doing all this for not only looks, but for the extra power on the street. I also have a personal goal to have over 400hp at 12psi daily. The car probably wont see the track more then one day. I should be in the low 12's or high 11's if all goes well.

I'm sending off a b20b to golden eagle for iron ductile sleeves, to be decked, and also honed. I'll be using eagle rods and JE 9:1 pistons. The b20b crank will be micro polished and balanced.

For head work, I'll be sending off a b16 head to portflow to be port and polished, along with being deshrouded. Internals are ferrea 1mm oversized ss valves, ferrea valve guides, eibach dual 10k RPM springs, crower ti retainers, ITR cams, and adjustable cam gears.

All new bearings, gaskets, and pumps will be used. Earls fittings and ss hose for vtec oil line. A moroso oil pan and pick up will be used. Greddy oil cooler. A Z10 girdle will keep everything rigid. Victor X intake manifold will be attached with a hondata cooling gasket. bbk 70mm throttle body will help bring in massive amounts of air. p30 ecu and conversion harness.

Fuel wise, STR fuel rail, SX FPR, SX 1000cc pump, SX filter. All fuel lines will be upgraded to -8 and -6. RC 550 injectors. Hondata 4b will handle fuel management.

Turbo- RH equal length exhaust manifold jet hoat coated. HKS T04e 60-1, HKS 40mm wastegate, HKS SSQV BOV, custom downpipe and intercooler piping, and spearco FMIC. Greddy profec A and all greddy electronic gauges.

and some other stuff. You get the idea. I'm about 1/3 of the way thru things as of now. I still need to find a b20b/z block and get started on the bottom end. I hope to be finished by the end of the summer.

 

[1Fast99Si]

It's not about how many horses the 2.4 CRV engine has, its the torque my man!!!!!! The RSX engine is a 2.0. A boosted CRV engine will leave a boosted RSX engine off the line pretty badly.

 

[blueSI]

99 crvtec

i have posted this in other forums before but theres this guy in my city with a crvtec, just the block and a b16b head thats ported and he runs low 13's all night long.

 

[PupaScoopa]

I'm planning a CRVTEC in the ol' Si myself. Maybe 100 shot of nitrous should put it down into 13s or less.

I plan to bore out to 84.5 mm with around 11:1 to 12:1 compression. Does anyone know of any good deals on the east coast for a B20 block and crank?