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Boost Junkie
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6,249 Posts
Discussion Starter #601

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Boost Junkie
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6,249 Posts
Discussion Starter #603
Now if only I can find my electrical bug. I found out it is not the CAS, it's wiring or a short. It happens so intermittently that I'm questioning my sanity.
 

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Boost Junkie
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6,249 Posts
Discussion Starter #605
I'll be on later.
 

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Darth Chinko
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29,826 Posts
i'm at work... :-(

i'm thinking of getting that $200 xbox carry case with hd screen and speakers so i can take that shit anywhere and game over the wifi... #panerabread
 

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Boost Junkie
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6,249 Posts
Discussion Starter #607
Went back to basics today. Changed battery terminals (old ones were rather mutilated) and found corrosion on the inside of the negative terminal. Hoping that I have fixed the issue with that (corrosion on any part of the electrical system on DSMs is touchy at best). Placed anti-corrosion pads under the new terminals and cleaned the posts. Also cleaned the chassis ground from the battery. Yesterday I changed the ECU to see if it behaved differently, it did not.

I have had a similar problem in the past (the '92 AWD) that caused it to shut off once on the way back from Daytona at a light. I changed the terminals the next day and the car behaved for another month until it was destroyed (T-boned by a cop in June 2011).

Time will tell if this has solved the problem.
 

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Boost Junkie
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6,249 Posts
Discussion Starter #608
The battery terminal did not solve the problem. I ended up swapping the entire ECU/engine wiring harness a week ago. My voltage is now consistent at around 14.1-2v at idle and 13.8v with the brakes pressed.

Since it is behaving so far (waiting a month before declaring it fixed) I went ahead and traded my DNP manifold for an FP race manifold (the collector design is much better) to be installed at some point in the near future. After that is installed, I'll get around to ARP headstuds and a Mitsu MLS headgasket so I can run more boost if my current boost level proves to be inadequate after retuning.

My current endeavor that I decided to undertake today is the common transfer case leak. I'm tired of JB Welding the back of the yoke to cover up the leaking freeze plug only for it to start leaking again a couple months later. So I did some research, and while the recall was performed in '06, the NHTSA says that the leak must be fixed. There is a lifetime warranty on the parts used in 2006, which included a then new transfer case (which is fine, I just want a new yoke). So in a way, I'm actually making a recall-related warranty claim. I called Chrysler today and they basically told me to shove the yoke up my ass by saying that there were no open recalls. I told them that the NHTSA recall spoke differently. I called the local Chrysler dealership and much to my dismay had to give the rep on the phone a small history lesson on my car in order to even get the process started. She originally wondered why I was calling her and was confused even further when her computer accepted the VIN. She also told me that there was no recall, I told her to set an appointment for me and I would show up with the entire 109 page recall notice from the NHTSA website. I'll be thumbing through it and checking my own records on the car this weekend in preparation, though I've already fired a figurative warning shot that if they do not cooperate and go along with the lifetime warranty, I'll get the NHTSA right on top of them. Federal safety recall ftw.

The parts to fix this from extremepsi.com is $50, I'd rather get it and the labor for free.
 

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Boost Junkie
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6,249 Posts
Discussion Starter #609
The government of course promptly told me that they were tired of dealing with the problem and that I am on my own. Bit the bullet and ordered the yoke, U-joint, and snap-rings for $60 shipped. Going to get a thin plate welded over the freeze plug so that this one doesn't leak. Tired of it and this is the only DSM I have ever had with this problem so I'm going to take care of this my way.
 

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Boost Junkie
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6,249 Posts
Discussion Starter #610 (Edited)
Put together a little teaser until I get some dyno time or a tune. Quality is shit but I made it in 15mins.
 

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Boost Junkie
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6,249 Posts
Discussion Starter #612

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Boost Junkie
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6,249 Posts
Discussion Starter #614 (Edited)
You also need a bigger turbo.

EDIT: Did I search correctly and find that the hotside of the ko3 is only 4.5cm?
 

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Boost Junkie
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6,249 Posts
Discussion Starter #618
That makes sense. There's a certain amount of time where they expect an owner to get it fixed.
Yeah, one would expect that there would be a bit more longevity to a potentially deadly fault, especially when my yoke that was leaking was a recall yoke. Either way I changed the damned thing and it isn't leaking again yet.
 

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Boost Junkie
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6,249 Posts
Discussion Starter #619
Just waiting on a new front passenger hub/spindle and the drivetrain should be complete for the time being (keeping an eye on the hydraulic components). Reflashed back to an older but known safe map that is based on the stock 1G map, got tired of the evo8 "lightswitch" style map. It's boost season, I want all of my 300+ horses and I want them quickly lol. I banged it through 1st through 3rd last night with nice results after banging through a 5' 110lb chick from New York :ninja . Not a bad night, tonight was quieter.

Still need to install the FP manifold and retune after finishing the injector dial-in for the temp fluctuations outside, PTE 1000cc injs are a pain to dial in the deadtime (latency). Started at the recommended 450ms and now I'm already down to 415ms... At least it's idling better.
 

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Boost Junkie
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6,249 Posts
Discussion Starter #620
Well more bad news, seems I blew a weld on the intercooler some time ago. I didn't notice until I stopped being able to hit full boost quickly (speed density can run with leaks). So I did a leak test with a fogger and found a 7" long crack in the intercooler, only a couple inches is visible with the bumper on. Basically I can still drive but I will never see full boost and occasionally bog at idle until it is fixed.

 
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