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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK SO I HAVE A 93 ACCORD SE, I HAVE AN ANNOYING BATTERY LIGHT THAT CONTINUES TO COME ON AN OFF WHEN IT CHOOSES TO, I HAVE HAD THE ALTERNATOR CHECKED WHILE CAR WAS RUNNING BY AUTOZONE AND THE BATTERY WAS AT 100% CHARGE LEVEL, I DISSCONNECTED THE BATTERY WHILE CAR WAS RUNNIGN AND IT STAYED ON. I DID REPLACE SSERPETINE BELTS, ALSO AN ANNOYING NOISE IS COMING OUT THROUGH MY AUDIO SYSTEM AS I ACCELERATE, HIGH PITCH SOUND. DONT KNOW WHERE TO START I CHECKED MY GROUNG AND THEY LOOK FINE AND I ALSO REPLACED THE BATTERY FUSE :mad
 

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OK SO I HAVE A 93 ACCORD SE, I HAVE AN ANNOYING BATTERY LIGHT THAT CONTINUES TO COME ON AN OFF WHEN IT CHOOSES TO, I HAVE HAD THE ALTERNATOR CHECKED WHILE CAR WAS RUNNING BY AUTOZONE AND THE BATTERY WAS AT 100% CHARGE LEVEL, I DISCONNECTED THE BATTERY WHILE CAR WAS RUNNING AND IT STAYED ON. I DID REPLACE SERPENTINE BELTS, ALSO AN ANNOYING NOISE IS COMING OUT THROUGH MY AUDIO SYSTEM AS I ACCELERATE, HIGH PITCH SOUND. DON'T KNOW WHERE TO START I CHECKED MY GROUND AND THEY LOOK FINE AND I ALSO REPLACED THE BATTERY FUSE :mad
first don't use all caps, it's annoying, second disconnecting the battery while the car was running was really stupid, you could have fried everything electronic in the car, without the battery the alternator voltage can spike to over 30 volts, the battery acts as a buffer in the electrical system. I wouldn't trust anything tested at shitzone, you probably have a bad voltage regulator in the alternator, the alternator can still work, but the regulator is going out. The blue/white wire at the alternator is the warning light wire, when the alternator is charging it's a positive voltage, since the light also has a positive voltage on one side, it doesn't come on, if the alternator stops charging, that wire becomes negative and the light comes on. There are other systems that depend on the state of that wire also. that wire is controlled by the voltage regulator inside of the alternator.


use spell check!! i fixed all 15 misspellings in 10 seconds, having a ranting post in all caps with a bunch of misspelled words is a sure way to get your post ignored
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ok so I would first like to say thanks for advice but also if you could try to be less of an asshole that would be much appreciated. I am new to this remember that, I never claimed to be an expert on anything. If putting down newbies makes u feel better then continue doing what you do.
 

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Ok so I would first like to say thanks for advice but also if you could try to be less of an asshole that would be much appreciated. I am new to this remember that, I never claimed to be an expert on anything. If putting down newbies makes u feel better then continue doing what you do.
i'm not being an ass, or even trying to be, but posting like that is really annoying. get your alternator swapped out, and you should be fine, the whining you hear in the stereo is also probably a diode in the alternator going bad, your best bet is a rebuild, avoid autozone and advance junk, Nappa has high quality alternators in their higher end line. You get what you pay for
 

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Thank you, I am going to do that. The previous owner replaced the alternator with a bosche one, Im curious about warranty? Which Alternator would be best for my vehicle?
if they left paperwork with the replacement and you are lucky, maby it's covered, but normally the warranties don't transfer to new owners. I've replaced a bunch of them, and the only decent ones I've found were the higher end nappa ones. The box stores,autozone,advance, pep boys etc, usually get theirs from the same rebuilder, that means china or mexico, the cheap ones often don't even get parts replaced, just cleaned and tested and shipped back out. one "rebuild" I got from autozone had painted over grease and worn out brushes
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok, so I’m curious, if I have taken in my alternator and had it tested and passed both tests (while car is running and with the alternator removed and placed on their tester) could the issues still be the voltage regulator? Also, while I was driving the other day my battery light was on then went away along with my abs light (which has been on since a purchased my car) but then after a few miles, only my abs light came back on while driving?
 

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Ok, so I’m curious, if I have taken in my alternator and had it tested and passed both tests (while car is running and with the alternator removed and placed on their tester) could the issues still be the voltage regulator? Also, while I was driving the other day my battery light was on then went away along with my abs light (which has been on since a purchased my car) but then after a few miles, only my abs light came back on while driving?
the alternator light is directly controlled by the voltage regulator inside of the alternator, it can be bad and not show up on any test, I don't even think the flunkie at autozone would even test that. an alternator diode failing also won't show up on their machine, the whine is probably due to one of the rectifier diodes shorting out, this would allow some ac voltage to reach your electrical system. If you had a digital meter, you might even be able to read that on the AC setting. A good auto electrical shop could test for these issues, but don't expect that kind of service from the box stores. If there is an ac component in your system, the noise it's producing could be causing issues with the ABS computer etc
 

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I think he had the battery tested, and checked grounds, there is a remote possibility it could be the blue/white wire shorting, this would cause the light to come on, but with the light being erratic and the radio whine, I would say it's internal, the other thing this could be are worn brushes in the alternator, this would also cause the light to come on, and they could make a lot of noise in the electrical system. If it's a bad rectifier diode,or bad brushes, either one could be causing a lot of electrical noise, any of the computers in the car need a reasonably clean dc voltage, the noise in the system can affect their operation
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yes i did check my grounds and they look fine. I dont really want to swap alternator unless i have to. Its not hard to do but I have a hard time adjusting the belt and its about 100 dollars. You mentioned wires (blue and white) are those on the alternator itself or internal? Or do you believe my best bet is to just replace it?
 

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Yes i did check my grounds and they look fine. I dont really want to swap alternator unless i have to. Its not hard to do but I have a hard time adjusting the belt and its about 100 dollars. You mentioned wires (blue and white) are those on the alternator itself or internal? Or do you believe my best bet is to just replace it?


You could replace it and drive for a few hours to check if the problem is resolved. 100 bucks can be returned if you only use it for a short period and keep it clean. So just replace, check for probe, return if not rectified.
 

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OK SO I HAVE A 93 ACCORD SE, I HAVE AN ANNOYING BATTERY LIGHT THAT CONTINUES TO COME ON AN OFF WHEN IT CHOOSES TO, I HAVE HAD THE ALTERNATOR CHECKED WHILE CAR WAS RUNNING BY AUTOZONE AND THE BATTERY WAS AT 100% CHARGE LEVEL, I Speed Test DISSCONNECTED THE BATTERY WHILE CAR WAS RUNNIGN AND IT STAYED ON. I DID REPLACE SSERPETINE BELTS, ALSO AN ANNOYING NOISE IS COMING OUT THROUGH MY AUDIO SYSTEM AS I ACCELERATE, HIGH PITCH SOUND. DONT KNOW WHERE TO START I CHECKED MY GROUNG AND THEY LOOK FINE AND I ALSO REPLACED THE BATTERY FUSE :mad
did you have your battery tested? did you check your grounds?
 
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