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What's best paint to use on interior plastics (vents, shit like that)? and what's the best process that will give the best results? I.E. no flaking, chipping
Best Interior Paint?
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I used SEM Vinyl Dye for my interior, I got pics if you want to see them. Been on for months and no chipping/flaking/fading what-so-ever
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pics would be awesome, thank yousnackpacks said:
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I've got some on my CDomain site, http://www.cardomain.com/id/snackpacks
They're all on the second page, if you want I'll put some up on here when I get home from work, won't be until late late tonight (1:30 or so). But for now I have those up on the net
They're all on the second page, if you want I'll put some up on here when I get home from work, won't be until late late tonight (1:30 or so). But for now I have those up on the net
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that looks really nice, what did you do to prep it?snackpacks said:
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There's everything that I used. I got everything from YourAutoTrim, under "SEM Vinyl Dye," they can send you a free chart with the colors that they carry on it.
As for painting, here's what I did:
Note: This is a very time consuming process. You may want to do a piece or two a day, and span it over a week (like I did).
Remember, this is PERMANENT! Make sure you want to do this! Read it all first before doing anything.
Removing:
The first step is self explanitory. Remove the parts you want painted! Remember where they go/how they hold up, it will be easier later on putting them back in if you have a diagram/pic/whatever to guide you. As you can see by the pictures on my CDomain site, I removed everything (even the dash!), which by the way is one, 1, uno, piece. After you've got everything out you want to paint, it's time to clean and prep!
Cleaning:
As you can see in the picture, I used the soap from SEM, it works awesome! I also used normal dish soap (Palmolive) first, then used the SEM Soap. If you order it from YourAutoTrim, they send it with a scrubbing pad (not pictured). This combo cleans very nicely (SEM Soap and pad). You may want to clean it twice to make sure you remove all oils, dirt, anything you don't want on there. Rinse it with a wet cotton terry towel, and use a shopvac or hairdryer to AIR DRY it (using a towel may leave lint!). You can use a lint-free cotton terry towel to complete the drying process, just make sure to blow off any lint that comes off onto the piece. You can tell when the piece is clean because it will look faded. This shows that no oils (ArmorAll) is left on the piece. Now it's time to begin prepping!
Prep:
To prep the pieces for painting, make sure to have some masking tape and newspaper available (lots of it!). I probably used an entire roll of tape in doing my interior. You want to make sure you mask off everything REALLY GOOD that you do not want painted (over/underpsray may occur if you do not prep the piece properly). To get down in the creases of my door panels I took a piece of tape (roughly 5-8 inches) and slid it back and forth while applying pressure to get it all the way down in the crease. Apply this all around, and put a second coat of tape over it. 3-4 coats of tape is safe to eliminate any paint from getting to places you don't want (Not 3-4 coats on the entire piece, only about 2-3 inches away from where you are painting). Then comes in the newspaper. 3-4 sheets should be thick enough to eliminate painting parts you want to leave alone. Tape the newspaper down covering the parts you don't want to paint (I think I have a picture on my CDomain site showing the door panel and dash masked off. You can use them as a demonstration.)
When the pieces are completely masked off, take the Leather/Plastic Prep or Vinyl Prep (depends on the piece/material you are painting) and spray it on the part to be painted. Take a lint-free cotton terry towel and rub it into the material. One coat should be fine, just make sure you get everything. The purpose of the Prep is to open the pores of the vinyl/plastic to receive the paint, making it permanent. After you have rubbed in the Prep and it is dry, it's time to paint!
Painting:
Take the SEM Sand Free and spray a light coat onto the piece. WHILE IT IS STILL WET, begin applying the paint. The first coat should be light (You don't want it to run or bubble over!). Light, even strokes is the key here! Make sure to get the entire piece. Let this dry (should take about 10-15mins). Apply another light coat on top of this. Now you should be able to see all the old color being covered up by the new (in my case, white over black, the black was being covered over). Again, let dry. Now you can apply a medium coat (but not too wet) to completely cover it. For me, in doing such a drastic color change, I applied 4-5 coats of paint. You decide how many coats you want which makes you happy. Let this dry. Within 10-15 mins, the paint should be dry to the touch. It's now time to apply the Clear Coat.
I used a Low-Luster Clear Coat, because I didn't want it to be glossy (A High Gloss is available, too). I sprayed 2 light coats of clear, giving time to dry inbetween coats, making sure to cover everything. I then gave it one final medium coat, 3 total. You can apply as many as you want until you're happy. The purpose of the clear coat (as any clear coat), is to protect the paint. You may choose not to apply a clear coat, but if it chips, don't blame me! Even with all of this paint, the panel retained it's original look and feel, which is very nice! A lot of my friends said it looked like it came from the factory like that, which, well, made me happy about my work!
Unmasking/Reinstalling Parts:
Within 30 minutes it should be OK to begin removing the tape and newspaper. I think I waited an hour (or overnight on the dash), just becuase I live in Florida and we have some lovely humidity here. I wanted to feel safe it was completely dry. You can wait however long you want over an hour and should be safe. Just begin by carefully removing the tape that is next to the paint. You want to make sure you don't fray any painted edges. If you do, you can take a soft-bristle brush and push it back down. After you've removed all the paper/tape, its time to reinstall the part and (hopefully) be satisfied with your work!
Hope this helps, maybe a moddy can even sticky it and/or have me repost it as an article. If you have any more questions, feel free to give me a holla!
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wow! thank you, that was a lot of help I appreciate it, you get rep points!
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where is that far right can on the site? if thats clearcoat, it doesnt show on the site, unless im blind. looks nice, im gonna paint my dask black, and i was looking for a good guide.
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