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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Going to make a CRVTEC and want to boost up to 15 PSI :eek: ;) . What connecting rods and pistons would be good too use? JUN/Crower/Skunk2 to name a few look good. No guessing please. Also who does a good job resleaving and port and polish blocks.
 

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why is a boost number your goal??

golden eagle to releeve
the rest of the parts really dont matter.. if they are forged that are better than stock and will handle more power than you will most likely make in a street car
 

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If you really want to build it, JE pistons and Crower rods are good. 350hp in a street car will most likely net you with losses to 275hp street cars, but it's your preference. Once you start making that much power on the street, you will spend most of your time playing catch up...

And a side note...rolling eyes at veterans is bad. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
350hp in a street car will most likely net you with losses to 275hp street cars, but it's your preference. Once you start making that much power on the street, you will spend most of your time playing catch up...
I dont understand what you are saying. Do you mean a 350 HP car will loose to a 275 HP car? And what do you mean by

Once you start making that much power on the street, you will spend most of your time playing catch up...
What am I going to be playing catch up with, a Viper?

As for the rolling eyes, I thought they were eyes of dispare not disrespect. Maybe I should give you a summary of what is going on.
Basically my 97 R was stolen and now I am going to have about 15-17K of spending cash. :cool: Now I am going to build a CRVTEC and put it in a civic HB. This is what my shoping list looks like.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Block:
B20
Pistons ???? (JE)
Connecting Rods ????(Crower)
Block Guard
Port Polish

Head:
B18C1
Titainum springs and retainers
Stock Cams
Cam Gears ???? (AEM)
Extrud and Honed

Clutch:
CM Stage 4

Turbo:
DRAG III

Exhaust:
Greddy Cat Back PE

Fuel Rail:
AEM

Intake Manifold:
Type R

Tranny:
GSR

Suspension:
Springs Ground Control
Shocks AGX

Ignition:
MSD Coil
MDS Cap
MDS Ignition
MSD Wires

Guages:
Oil Pressure
Boost
Air Fuel

Chasi
Civic 92-97 HB

This should leave me with about 3k extra which I would use for tuning. I expect to pull 350 to the wheels.
This is a first draft of parts so I am not sure on exactly what will be in the motor, thats why I am trying to do some homework on block internals.
 

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Here is what I mean by losing to cars with less power, and playing catch up: Hondas are FF cars. FF cars with lots of power have a really hard time drag racing without slicks. 350hp on the street is fun, but only after 2nd gear. 1st gear, and 2nd gear, for the most part, take you about 100 feet, spinning tires the entire way. That is so much power for a lightweight front wheel drive car. I would find myself losing to stock Mustangs if I launched on them...because I would just spin. I even lost to an NSX in a 3rd-to-2nd gear downshift race, because I just spun into the next lane. The ONLY way I could race on radials, would be to let them launch, as I nonchalantly rolled of the line, and waited until almost 5,000rpm in first gear, before I floored it...then I would have to granny shift into second gear in order to not spin to redline. This was on a B16A pumping around 340hp.

In order to be able to drag race efficiently, you will need a limited slip differential, and drag radials...but the drag radials won't help unless you heat them up...and you really shouldn't do that at a red light...

As for your setup, you will need more fuel than that. At 15psi, you will be running so lean, you'll shatter your pistons. Check out www.matt3t4.20m.com and click the Specnicalities link to see some good turbo setups.

You have to realize that power is not the end all modification. Gearing, weight, and getting the useable power to the ground are VERY important parts to making a fast car.
 

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it depends on where you live for the resleeving question... we need to know that to know who's good around you...
 

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I would have to go with Golden Eagle for resleeving your block. My block is being resleeved there right now, you get a quality job at an affordable price($800). I'm personally going with JE pistons this time around , but I have had experience with and no problems with Wiseco and Ross foraged pistons. And you can't go wrong with ESP Eagle or Crower Rods. I have to agree with MatT3T4 on the traction issue. 350Hp is a lot to push on the street, I had 250Hp and I was already having slight traction problems. A good suspension setup with the help of an LSD, drag radials, and gears would really help out a lot. Also what type of fuel management are you going to use?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Oops I forgot the LSD. Its going to be a quaife, expensive as hell but a must I think. MT slicks are the best and they also make bearly streat legal slicks/radials. They have just enough grooves to make them lega.
Fuel management.... Well I have not really thought about that too much. Now that you mention it I should start to consider what I will be using. Should I go with just a piggy back apex AVC Type R or their new ECU replacement unit. Any suggestions on what to do for fuel. The turbo will come I beleive with a RRFR and fuel pump
 

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I was also looking into the MT DOT slicks. I don't think they make them small enough to fit imports, but I could be wrong. As for fuel I'm running the Hondata stage 2 w/boost, Vortech fuel rail/FPR, Walbro Intank fuel pump, and RC 600cc injectors.
 

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you also mite want to invest in a standalone ecu
 

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MaT3T4 hits it the nail on the head. I'm running 9lbs in my setup. I know thats now much, but raced a similarly equipped hatch this past weekend running 5 lbs on a smaller turbo. Out of the hole he could take me. He was running good suspension, drag radials and could all of his useable power to the ground. Even at higher levels of boost, superior tuning and less weight I wasn't to pull past him until 3rd gear territory, becuase my car was spinning so bad.

Same way with the a new BMW M5 I raced. Now there not slow cars by any means, but again out of the hole. A RWD car has a big advatage becuase they can get that power to the ground.

Remember, at the track or on the street, the first 60ft can play a key role in who the winner will be.

Who told you a B20 was a closed desk? It's an open deck exactly like every other B-series. A B20 is just a factory 84mm sleeved LS motor. The only difference is in that is has a reinforced single piece sleeve, it's a stronger design but with out proper tuning it'll fail just like any other sleeve....

If you're just wanting to making power to impress your friends and do burn outs you're missing the point and shouldn't be allowed to drive.
 

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Speed Phreak is right, the B20 is not closed deck. Rather, the cylinders are siamesed together making it slightly stronger than stock but still in need of strengthening, especially considering the r/s ratio of 1.53. Idealy your r/s should be around 1.75. As far as internals anything of the firged or billet nature will suffice. Check out http://www.crvtec.com it has many helpful hints when it comes to forced induction and the b20. Also go with some good turbo cams like crower and don't use AEM cam gears, i have seen them fail too many times. Go with something like unorthodox racing or STR.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks for the link. I am going to check it out.
As for spinning the tires for the first 60 dont worry about it bro, I got the wheel on this bat out of hell. God damm my feet are getting antcy as hell ready to beat on a crvtec :):):). Got my bonus today (12,000) yeeeehawwww baby + the 17,000 from insurance god damm I should just buy a new car but whats the fun in that :):):)
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Are you kidding me

What can I do to avoid B16a valve clearance problems with OEM pistons? I don't know if the valve float problem can really be addressed no matter what pistons you use. If the springs can't control the valves they will always end up hitting something.

I did a test last night using clay to check the actual clearance between the bottom of the valve and the floor of the valve pocket, at 4 degrees intake cam advance (ITR cams), and there was 0.180 clearance.

it's just that the intake piston pockets are not big enough in diameter for the B16 size valve head to clear. A really easy solution would be to shave a larger radius in the pocket. That can be done fairly easily as the aluminum piston is soft enough that a sharp scribing tool could do it. That's what I plan to do. There is plenty of material in the piston crown to do it
This guy is going to shave into the pistons :confused: Isnt that crazy
 
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