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Discussion Starter #1
i went to pepeboys and got sum powerstop rotors and powerstop pads. i sisnt install the rotors, just the pads, but they dont seem to be that great, almost like i have to push harder on the brake pedeal, any1 know why?? do these pads just suck ass?
 

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ahaha "pepeboys" :lol2

i heard it sux,, brakes are very important item in your car, never go cheap on them, cheap brakes pads can damage ur rotors at the same time
 

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WhiteTegRacer said:
ahaha "pepeboys" :lol2

i heard it sux,, brakes are very important item in your car, never go cheap on them, cheap brakes pads can damage ur rotors at the same time
PowerStop aren't cheap.

But to answer the question, its a system. You probably need to change out your brake fluid as well. If yo uhave never done it before, do it.

Secondly, most people automatically assume that a name brand or higher priced product equals quality. Not necessarily the case. All you really needed was a good quality pad and blank rotors and you are just as good as anyone else.
 

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i just heard it sux, so i stayed away from it, i would recommend something like nissin or any japanese brand brakes

most likely its either your brake lines are leaking or not enough brake fluid
 

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WhiteTegRacer said:
i just heard it sux, so i stayed away from it, i would recommend something like nissin or any japanese brand brakes

most likely its either your brake lines are leaking or not enough brake fluid
Nissin is what acura uses for thier facotory calipers. Those big spoon calipers are just rebadged Nissin calipers.

And just because its JDM doesn't mean squat. Brembo, Bear, Willwood, among others are awesome brake setups.

If the lines were leaking then he would be low on fluid. If fluid was low then the brake light would come on in the dash. Lastly, I'm almost certain that PepBoys would have told him about it. Believe it or not, they would because then they could turn around and sell him a full brake job for more money. And we all know shops like to do this.

Like I said before, unless you really feel a need to drive wide open throttle all the time on the streets as if you were at a SCCA meet, then stock setup will suffice.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
well this is the thing i noticed after i was done doing them........i put that ant squeel shit on outside of the shim, not between the shim and the pad. ive done brake work b4 but have never used that lube, it came with the pads so i used it and apperently did it wrong, could that be the cause?
 

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playahwitgame said:
well this is the thing i noticed after i was done doing them........i put that ant squeel shit on outside of the shim, not between the shim and the pad. ive done brake work b4 but have never used that lube, it came with the pads so i used it and apperently did it wrong, could that be the cause?
That is the proper way to do it. Brake sqeel is the most common complaint from people. To stop/reduce the sqeel, you must apply it between the pistons and the pads/shims.

This stops sqeel when you initially apply it, you know when you just tap and hold them. Once you step harder, more force is used to push against the pads therefore eliminating the brake sqeel. So that is where you want to apply the anti-sqeel, between the contact point. Which is the pistons and the pads/shims.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
i read 2 places after i installed them that its between the shim and backside of pad.......lets see what other people think.........and for the record, i dont think they arent good quality, i mean they were 64.99 pads
 

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i know alot of aftermaret companies make you take off a protective film from the rotors with brake cleaner,did you skip that step?
and hows the finish on the rotor?you dont want it to be too smooth
 

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Discussion Starter #11
i didnt put on the rotor yet, had trouble getting off those 2 screws, any tips thatll make it a bit easier? and i dint wanna bang on em 2 hard, i did it the job using the jack that came with the car.
 

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playahwitgame said:
i read 2 places after i installed them that its between the shim and backside of pad.......lets see what other people think.........and for the record, i dont think they arent good quality, i mean they were 64.99 pads
And how much do you think Brembo Blanks run for? Not that expensive either. And how much do you think pads have to be to be considered good quality? Tire Rack sells Hawk pads for about $50-60, and they are not that bad of a pad.

nfscg said:
i know alot of aftermaret companies make you take off a protective film from the rotors with brake cleaner,did you skip that step?
and hows the finish on the rotor?you dont want it to be too smooth
Yes, always spray it down with brake clean before you install the pads on. Put them on backwards and spray on the rotors. Turn them around correctly and spray them on the front side. That should do it.

playahwitgame said:
i didnt put on the rotor yet, had trouble getting off those 2 screws, any tips thatll make it a bit easier? and i dint wanna bang on em 2 hard, i did it the job using the jack that came with the car.
Spray WD-40 on it and let it sit for for anywhere around 10-20 minutes. Slightly bang on it if you feel like it. It'll come off rather easy after the WD-40 penetrates it.

Factory jack should be fine. Although you may want to use jack stands to help support.
 

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playahwitgame said:
i was talking about the pad, but stop arguing, ytour getting off subject
I was talking about the pads. Hawk brake pads? Please reread post. :rolleyes

Plus who's arguing with you. If you don't like inputs, don't ask. Plain and simple. If you don't think my help or suggestions on your brake job, then just ignore it.

Why don't you just ask the suspension forum on how to take those screws out. Oh yeah, did I mention that the Hawk pads are probably even cheaper than your cheap $64.99 pads and are probably even better quality? When I say cheap, I mean $9 Autozone POS. Once you get into the $50+ range, they better be of some quality.

Anyhow, good luck for what its worth, since you seem to think I'm getting off subject.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
thats pretty much arguing right there, but yea, i figure even new pads can suck.....i dont kno, maybe i need to bleed the system or something
 

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I replaced my rotors and put on some ebc greenstuffs and i love em.
 

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How about breaking the pads in? I would definetly put the rotors on and do the whole stop and go with the new rotors to get them good and hot!
Flush your brake fluid, there's a way to do this without getting air in your lines. Just search.
Also just for reference I checked the Haynes manual for Teggy & Civics.
"Apply anti-squeal compounds to the back of the pads, then install the shim(s)"
It almost sounds like there's air in your brake lines somewhere, but if all pep boys did was install pads they shouldn't have removed calipers?
 

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I just got my brembo blank rotors and hawk performance ceramics from tirerack this morning $200. two front rotor and all 4 brakes. I was going to get the hawk hps but Wes at tirerack said the ceramics were new and better. low noise/low dust/long life... researched for a good combo...

I'll let u know how they 'stop'......
 

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hobie237 said:
you have to wear them in so that the bumps and ridges on the pads match the rotors... it takes some miles of careful driving and some hard stops... they dont just work right out of the box
The hawks/brembos came w. instructions on how to break them in. Just got my baby cleaned... about to go break them in one time around the beltway!.
Wheres my radar dectector at? :evil
 
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