what kind of car? year? tranny model?
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
I WISH I KNEW SOMEONE THAT COULD TELL ME ABOUT SOHC GEARS!!! (D series tranny)
All the info I could find is on the b16 and b18's. These will be long, but i'll trade you my info on the b series, if you've got any info on the D!!!!
............RS/LS ..... GS-R ..... Type R
1st ..... 3.230..... 3.230 ..... 3.230
2nd ..... 1.900 ..... 1.900 ..... 2.105
3rd ..... 1.269 ..... 1.360 ..... 1.468
4th..... 0.966 ..... 1.034 ..... 1.117
5th ..... 0.714 ..... 0.787 ..... 0.850
FD ..... 4.266 ..... 4.400 ..... 4.800
True confessions from a guy who did the GSR swap. HE swears it's well worth it...
"Never mind the hype on the numbers and the ratios of these trannys, but god---m.... this thing is crazy. It is a TREMENDOUS difference (seat-of-the- pants type) after the switch from LS to Y2 <=== my correction.
First gear pulls much harder, but the crazy part is the switch to 2nd... oh my! The rpm's drop literally about 50% of what they used to.. at a 8500 shift it drops to ~7100 and spins literally (no exaggeration) the WHOLE of 2nd gear... and these arn't stock VX tires... DUNLOP SP2000 205/50/15's. Shift to 3rd and it lights up... the drop is the same.. to 7100. You don't notice how quicker it revvs up until you hit 3rd... it is a HUGE difference. 3rd obviously takes a little longer to wind-out and hit 4th... tires spin a bit and in my estimate the 1/4 ends just before the end of 4th. With 20" slicks I estimate the 1320 ending at around 8700 in 4th gear.
To whoever reads this... guys/girls... if you can somehow get this or the Type-R tranny.... or at least the gears and switch them to your LS or GS-R's... PLEASE DO SO.... the difference is incredible. I have NEVER felt such a big difference out of anything that I have done to the motor... I don't know how this will translate to E.T's but it WORKS.... I am just so ecstatic."
All the info I could find is on the b16 and b18's. These will be long, but i'll trade you my info on the b series, if you've got any info on the D!!!!
............RS/LS ..... GS-R ..... Type R
1st ..... 3.230..... 3.230 ..... 3.230
2nd ..... 1.900 ..... 1.900 ..... 2.105
3rd ..... 1.269 ..... 1.360 ..... 1.468
4th..... 0.966 ..... 1.034 ..... 1.117
5th ..... 0.714 ..... 0.787 ..... 0.850
FD ..... 4.266 ..... 4.400 ..... 4.800
True confessions from a guy who did the GSR swap. HE swears it's well worth it...
"Never mind the hype on the numbers and the ratios of these trannys, but god---m.... this thing is crazy. It is a TREMENDOUS difference (seat-of-the- pants type) after the switch from LS to Y2 <=== my correction.
First gear pulls much harder, but the crazy part is the switch to 2nd... oh my! The rpm's drop literally about 50% of what they used to.. at a 8500 shift it drops to ~7100 and spins literally (no exaggeration) the WHOLE of 2nd gear... and these arn't stock VX tires... DUNLOP SP2000 205/50/15's. Shift to 3rd and it lights up... the drop is the same.. to 7100. You don't notice how quicker it revvs up until you hit 3rd... it is a HUGE difference. 3rd obviously takes a little longer to wind-out and hit 4th... tires spin a bit and in my estimate the 1/4 ends just before the end of 4th. With 20" slicks I estimate the 1320 ending at around 8700 in 4th gear.
To whoever reads this... guys/girls... if you can somehow get this or the Type-R tranny.... or at least the gears and switch them to your LS or GS-R's... PLEASE DO SO.... the difference is incredible. I have NEVER felt such a big difference out of anything that I have done to the motor... I don't know how this will translate to E.T's but it WORKS.... I am just so ecstatic."
Hey CivicNOS1, what kind of work did you do to your motor to set 200+ hp?CivicNOS1 said:I WISH I KNEW SOMEONE THAT COULD TELL ME ABOUT SOHC GEARS!!! (D series tranny)
All the info I could find is on the b16 and b18's. These will be long, but i'll trade you my info on the b series, if you've got any info on the D!!!!
1998 Civic EX (SOHC)
200+ HP before I got the fuel system, all motor.
complete engine rebuild, bulletproofed, bored 50 over. Every bolt-on known to man and a bunch of rice!
Let's compare the GSR and RS tranny. The first two gears are the same.
However, 3rd and 4th gear are about 7% shorter, and 5th gear is 10% shorter ((0.787-0.714)/.714). Let us assume that the final drive is the same for now. In 3rd, 4th, and 5th gears, you will get noticeably improved acceleration. It's almost like having 7% more torque in 3rd and 4th at any given time (it's not quite like this, and I'll get to that in a moment) and 10% more torque in 5th. This comes at the sacrifice of top speed in any given gear. Now, with a 7000 rpm redline, top speed is about 220 km/h rev limited (it's still got lots to go... it literally 'slams' into the limiter) with the GSR tranny. Personally, you don't need to be up that high on the race track. YOU ideally like to increase FD to get even better acceleration at the expense of top speed, which brings us to the next topic: FD.
FD is exactly what it says... the final reduction through the tranny before the driveshafts. It affects all gears. The total reductions for the gears would be the gear ratio multiplied times FD. Thus, if your engine is at 5000 rpm, and you are in 4th gear using a GSR tranny (total reduction of 4.4*1.034=4.55), the driveshafts would be turning at 1100 rpm (the calculated speed using 577 mm as the nominal tire diameter would be 120 km/h, which pretty much corresponds to my speedo). FD increases the overall ratio for all gears without affecting gear spacing. Gear spacing determines how much engine speed drops between shifts. For 2-3,3-4, and 4-5, gear spacing is very good on the GSR tranny. However, from 1-2 the gap is a factor of 0.59. Thus, if you shift at 7000 rpm, you'll end up at about 4100 rpm . I suspect the reason Honda did this is to give good starting power in 1st gear in a car that doesn't have much low end torque. Anyways, looking at the Type R ratios, one can see that the gap between 1-2 is 1.54, which is much better. The gaps between the other gears remain the same as on the GSR. Honda has basically just moved gears 2-5 'closer' to 1st gear. If we ignore 1st gear, a Type R tranny is essentially a GSR tranny with a 4.7-4.8 FD.
Now back to the issue of why improving a gear by 7% isn't quite the same as getting 7% more torque. When you do this, the top speed in that particular gear will be reduced and thus you'll have to shift sooner. Thus, you'll be spending the 'extra' time that you would have been in the lower gear with the poorer ratios in a higher gear with the better ratios. Even though the better higher gear has better ratios, it still won't be as good as the poorer lower gear. But overall, the effect is improved acceleration and lap times. There is a limit though. Shifting takes time and thus you don't want to have a zillion gears spaced 0.99 apart with an engine with a big SPIKE for it's powerband. That is why Formula 1 and Indy cars are generally limited to 6-7 gears. In CONTRAST, you could go the other way by using a non-vtec tranny and GSR motor, in hopes of being able to stay in 3rd for a 1/4 mile run. With this particular setup, that may just be the way to go for a 1/4 mile run. However, with 7000 rpm redline, the shorter gearing you can get the better. With the gsr tranny, you'd have to make 4 shifts during your 1/4 mile runs (sometimes you get into 5th), but all are pretty quick and most people definitely get better times due to the gearing.
However, 3rd and 4th gear are about 7% shorter, and 5th gear is 10% shorter ((0.787-0.714)/.714). Let us assume that the final drive is the same for now. In 3rd, 4th, and 5th gears, you will get noticeably improved acceleration. It's almost like having 7% more torque in 3rd and 4th at any given time (it's not quite like this, and I'll get to that in a moment) and 10% more torque in 5th. This comes at the sacrifice of top speed in any given gear. Now, with a 7000 rpm redline, top speed is about 220 km/h rev limited (it's still got lots to go... it literally 'slams' into the limiter) with the GSR tranny. Personally, you don't need to be up that high on the race track. YOU ideally like to increase FD to get even better acceleration at the expense of top speed, which brings us to the next topic: FD.
FD is exactly what it says... the final reduction through the tranny before the driveshafts. It affects all gears. The total reductions for the gears would be the gear ratio multiplied times FD. Thus, if your engine is at 5000 rpm, and you are in 4th gear using a GSR tranny (total reduction of 4.4*1.034=4.55), the driveshafts would be turning at 1100 rpm (the calculated speed using 577 mm as the nominal tire diameter would be 120 km/h, which pretty much corresponds to my speedo). FD increases the overall ratio for all gears without affecting gear spacing. Gear spacing determines how much engine speed drops between shifts. For 2-3,3-4, and 4-5, gear spacing is very good on the GSR tranny. However, from 1-2 the gap is a factor of 0.59. Thus, if you shift at 7000 rpm, you'll end up at about 4100 rpm
. I suspect the reason Honda did this is to give good starting power in 1st gear in a car that doesn't have much low end torque. Anyways, looking at the Type R ratios, one can see that the gap between 1-2 is 1.54, which is much better. The gaps between the other gears remain the same as on the GSR. Honda has basically just moved gears 2-5 'closer' to 1st gear. If we ignore 1st gear, a Type R tranny is essentially a GSR tranny with a 4.7-4.8 FD.Now back to the issue of why improving a gear by 7% isn't quite the same as getting 7% more torque. When you do this, the top speed in that particular gear will be reduced and thus you'll have to shift sooner. Thus, you'll be spending the 'extra' time that you would have been in the lower gear with the poorer ratios in a higher gear with the better ratios. Even though the better higher gear has better ratios, it still won't be as good as the poorer lower gear. But overall, the effect is improved acceleration and lap times. There is a limit though. Shifting takes time and thus you don't want to have a zillion gears spaced 0.99 apart with an engine with a big SPIKE for it's powerband
. That is why Formula 1 and Indy cars are generally limited to 6-7 gears. In CONTRAST, you could go the other way by using a non-vtec tranny and GSR motor, in hopes of being able to stay in 3rd for a 1/4 mile run. With this particular setup, that may just be the way to go for a 1/4 mile run. However, with 7000 rpm redline, the shorter gearing you can get the better. With the gsr tranny, you'd have to make 4 shifts during your 1/4 mile runs (sometimes you get into 5th), but all are pretty quick and most people definitely get better times due to the gearing.HEY, redfox... I posted in a thread you were in before... I TOLD YOU I LOVED YOUR CAR!!
It's CLEAN as all getout! ANyWays, here's my setup!!
98 Honda Civic EX Coupe...
::ROLLERS::
16" Konig Toxxins
Low Profile Yokohama
Intrax 3" Drop Springs
Arospeed front upper strut bar
Arospeed rear lower strut bar
:OWER::
DC Sports stainless steel headers
HKS Super Dragger Exhaust (cat back)
Jacobs Electronics Pro Street Ultra Team Ignition
NGK Spark Plug Wires & spark plugs
AEM Cold Air Intake
AEM underdrive pulley kit
AEM adjustable cam gear
AEM Hi-flo Fuel Rail
AEM Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator
Venom SuperCool Fuel Pump
Venom 320cc Fuel Injectors
Vtec Control & Indicator
--Engine build up, bulletproofed:
TOP END =
Match Ported & Polished Head
Angle milled surface
3 angle valve grind w/ new guides and seals
Back cut and swirl polished valves
Line honed cam journals
Reed camshaft
Crowler valve springs
BOTTOM END =
Reconditioned, lightened connecting rods
Grind and polished crankshaft
Vatted, Bored 50 over (.50 oversize)
High Compression (11:1) forged Arius Pistons
w/ 4cc dish and valve recess mods
Resurfaced
Balanced complete rolling assembly
Clevite 77 rod bearings
Total Seal piston rings
Modified oil pump for increased flow
Timing belt, tensioner, water pump, thermostat
Complete seal kit all seals top to bottom
*built with plans for 200shot NOS, 93 octane fuel.
** Final Compression Ratio 11.25:1
::ICE::
Lightning Cell Auto/Audio Battery
Kenwood flip face head unit
Kenwood 4ch 400w amp pushing
two kenwood 6X9's and
two kenwood 5 1/4's
Kenwood 2ch 600w amp pushing
two kenwood 10" tornados
15" Orion XTR sub powered by
600w DHD powercruiser amp
Dynamatted trunk, interior and panels
...i'm gonna build it in one day.... maybe
::RICE::
Altezza Taillights
StreetGlow Blue Undercar Neons
Ignited* Push Button Start
Cusom SilverPearl Paint
Shaved Handles & molding
Omega Security System w/
remote Door Pop.
GTR/Saleen Double Bladed Spoiler
Stillen Front End
Grillecraft
Japanese Blue Catz XLO foglamps
Erebuni Shogun side skirts
Tsunami rear bumper cover
One Wiper... oh
APC Side Marker Lights
Blue H emblem for front
Red H emblem for rear
Hyper White Headlights
Custom Euro/Clear Headlights
Modern Image Graphics
Race Pedals, Shiftnob, & E-brake
Custom Painted blue interior
w/ silver accents
Custom Upholsterred Backseat
and doorpanel fabric
Front seat covers
Dyed carpet and floor mats
Engine Dress Up Kit
It's CLEAN as all getout! ANyWays, here's my setup!!
98 Honda Civic EX Coupe...
::ROLLERS::
16" Konig Toxxins
Low Profile Yokohama
Intrax 3" Drop Springs
Arospeed front upper strut bar
Arospeed rear lower strut bar
:
OWER:: DC Sports stainless steel headers
HKS Super Dragger Exhaust (cat back)
Jacobs Electronics Pro Street Ultra Team Ignition
NGK Spark Plug Wires & spark plugs
AEM Cold Air Intake
AEM underdrive pulley kit
AEM adjustable cam gear
AEM Hi-flo Fuel Rail
AEM Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator
Venom SuperCool Fuel Pump
Venom 320cc Fuel Injectors
Vtec Control & Indicator
--Engine build up, bulletproofed:
TOP END =
Match Ported & Polished Head
Angle milled surface
3 angle valve grind w/ new guides and seals
Back cut and swirl polished valves
Line honed cam journals
Reed camshaft
Crowler valve springs
BOTTOM END =
Reconditioned, lightened connecting rods
Grind and polished crankshaft
Vatted, Bored 50 over (.50 oversize)
High Compression (11:1) forged Arius Pistons
w/ 4cc dish and valve recess mods
Resurfaced
Balanced complete rolling assembly
Clevite 77 rod bearings
Total Seal piston rings
Modified oil pump for increased flow
Timing belt, tensioner, water pump, thermostat
Complete seal kit all seals top to bottom
*built with plans for 200shot NOS, 93 octane fuel.
** Final Compression Ratio 11.25:1
::ICE::
Lightning Cell Auto/Audio Battery
Kenwood flip face head unit
Kenwood 4ch 400w amp pushing
two kenwood 6X9's and
two kenwood 5 1/4's
Kenwood 2ch 600w amp pushing
two kenwood 10" tornados
15" Orion XTR sub powered by
600w DHD powercruiser amp
Dynamatted trunk, interior and panels
...i'm gonna build it in one day.... maybe
::RICE::
Altezza Taillights
StreetGlow Blue Undercar Neons
Ignited* Push Button Start
Cusom SilverPearl Paint
Shaved Handles & molding
Omega Security System w/
remote Door Pop.
GTR/Saleen Double Bladed Spoiler
Stillen Front End
Grillecraft
Japanese Blue Catz XLO foglamps
Erebuni Shogun side skirts
Tsunami rear bumper cover
One Wiper... oh
APC Side Marker Lights
Blue H emblem for front
Red H emblem for rear
Hyper White Headlights
Custom Euro/Clear Headlights
Modern Image Graphics
Race Pedals, Shiftnob, & E-brake
Custom Painted blue interior
w/ silver accents
Custom Upholsterred Backseat
and doorpanel fabric
Front seat covers
Dyed carpet and floor mats
Engine Dress Up Kit
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