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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
N/A

Hey Everyone,

My question refers to building a N/A '98 Honda Prelude. I'm debating whether to go turbo or N/A and somewhat leaning towards N/A. First question--What cams are available for the fith generation Prelude that provide good HP gain for street running? Also, how about a nice job on the heads such as port and polish and valves? I know on the GSR it increases performance very much so and was wondering who a good shop is that will do this service. I will also be doing all the basic bolt ons (I/H/E). I'd like to get about 200WHP N/A. Can this be done with headwork, cams, and basic bolt ons? Thanks!

Lance
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Oh also one last thing, on the fifth generation Prelude what is the story on the ECU re-calculating the mods you add to it? This would not affect the headwork or cams correct? Thanks!
 

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defintely, get some JUN cams, and some JUN titanium valve springs and retainers, add some Type S pistons, get some good fuel injectors and you should be doing nice. There are other things you can do, im just not thinking of them right now.
 

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wight

drop some weight. ludes are heavy, do the cams and stuff like that, but if your going to go all motor, you might as well get it bored to a 2.4.and hic compression ratio about 11to1.
 

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well, I consider myself far from an expert, but I've been researching the best componets to get the most N/A hp possible, but still have the car streetable and run well off shitty AZ 91 octane gas... here's what I came up, your mileage may vary. I have none of this done except I'm in the process of the suspension mods, so I have no concrete evidence for or against any of these mods.

-Brian

KYB AGX Struts
H&R Sport Springs
Suspension Techniques Front and Rear Sway Bars
Neuspeed Front Upper Strut Tower Bar

AEM CAI
DC Sports SS 4-2-1 Headers
Thermal R&D Classic Exhaust
AEM Tru-Power Pulley Kit

RC Engineering 440cc Saturated Injectors
MSD Digital 6-Plus Ignition Control
MSD Blaster HVC Coil
Magnecor KV85 Wires
NGK Platinum Plugs

Erick's Racing 70mm Throttle Body
Skunk2 Intake Manifold (when available)

DPR Stage 3 or 4 Head Work
Crower Stage 2 Cams w/ Stock Idle Lobe
Crower Cam Sprockets
Crower Dual Springs and Ti Retainers
Crower SS I/E Valves
JDM Type-S Pistons and Rings

Hondata S200 w/ Data Logging
P72 ECU

Jun Light Flywheel 12 lbs.
Clutchmaster Stage 3 FX300
 

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aglude said:
well, I consider myself far from an expert, but I've been researching the best componets to get the most N/A hp possible, but still have the car streetable and run well off shitty AZ 91 octane gas... here's what I came up, your mileage may vary. I have none of this done except I'm in the process of the suspension mods, so I have no concrete evidence for or against any of these mods.

-Brian

KYB AGX Struts
H&R Sport Springs
Suspension Techniques Front and Rear Sway Bars
Neuspeed Front Upper Strut Tower Bar

AEM CAI
DC Sports SS 4-2-1 Headers
Thermal R&D Classic Exhaust
AEM Tru-Power Pulley Kit

RC Engineering 440cc Saturated Injectors
MSD Digital 6-Plus Ignition Control
MSD Blaster HVC Coil
Magnecor KV85 Wires
NGK Platinum Plugs

Erick's Racing 70mm Throttle Body
Skunk2 Intake Manifold (when available)

DPR Stage 3 or 4 Head Work
Crower Stage 2 Cams w/ Stock Idle Lobe
Crower Cam Sprockets
Crower Dual Springs and Ti Retainers
Crower SS I/E Valves
JDM Type-S Pistons and Rings

Hondata S200 w/ Data Logging
P72 ECU

Jun Light Flywheel 12 lbs.
Clutchmaster Stage 3 FX300
go for it....and when youre done, drive over to mesa to show it to me :p
 

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Matt said:
why does everyone want the stock idle lobes? i'm gunning for the stage 3s :D BRING ON THE LUMPS

and fidanza makes an 8 lbs. flywheel....
well, like I said, I'd still want my car to be streetable... stock idle lobes, with head work tuned for the VTEC range would make the engine a dog at low rpms, but I'd still retain everyday driveability which I want. if you want an all out racer, go with a different cams, and maybe some other parts too... the flywheel too, I know there are lighter flywheels, but I wanted a compromise there... lighten it more than stock, but not too much that it becomes impossible to drive when crusing around town
 

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i'll let you know in a few days how streetable or unstreetable it is ;)

and i see a stage 3 clutch... may have a unstreetable engagement :)

i'm not trying to sound like a penis wrinkle or anything, just saying, if you want to build a street terror, dont compromise because you'll probably end up saying, I should have done this or that but...

do it, i applaud the all motor urge!
 

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Matt, good point. a total street terror would call for a stage 3 cam. the stage 3 cam will idle poorly at the stock idle rpm, and the idle will have to be increased to somewhere above 1200rpms, and the engine will sound a little rougher at low engine speeds due to increase intake valve timing to exhaust valve timing overlap. personally, I want the sleeper effect with my car. the only noticible changes when sitting at a light will be the slightly lower ride height, and the different muffler and exhaust tip. I tend not to be an ostentasious kind of guy, so I don't go for body kits, and the extra idle rumble wouldn't fit the bill. but I do see how the stage 3 cam and lighten flywheel would make the h22 more powerful throughout the entire rpm range.
 

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yeah, a stage 3 clutch might be a little much, but I still have time to change my mind before I get one. depends on how much whp I end up getting, and other factors
 

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I would be interested to know ho much the complete setup is going to cost. Also, why go with Type S pistons? Wouldn't it be about the same price to get say JG pistons or some other reputable aftermarket pistons.
 

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well, the reason for not going with a forged piston like JE, etc. is to not have to resleeve the block... basically saving some bucks, but that's kind of out the window when the total parts cost for the engine related mods (no shipping, tax, or parts installation costs) is about $7.5k... my plan is to have it be an ongoing project to span about 2 years... but I do think going with a forged piston for weight reduction and increased compression is a good idea for achieving a higher performance level
 

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i got a stage 4 and have no problems with it, i mean its a little jumpy when going 1 gear to 2 gear... but other than that its smooth....

i also got a alium flyweel from clucthmasters... thats good too only thing i had to do with that is lower my vtec down cause the rpms droped out of vtec when shifting ... thats done with a vafc... all kind of little toys to play with...

peace
 

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ssrprelude said:
I am getting a JDM H22. It comes stock with 10.6-1 pistons. Do you think that I would really need to get the Type S 11.0-1 pistons???
I'm personally not too familiar with the JDM spec engines. just quoting a few things from www.h22a.org, the 97-2001 standard jdm h22a, which you have I assume, has a 10.6:1 CR and makes 202hp @ 6800 rpm. the 97-2001 jdm H22A Type-S has an 11:1 CR and makes 223hp @ 7200 rpm. I'm not sure if there's any difference between the standard h22a and the h22a type-s other than the CR, but if money is no object then get the 11:1 CR pistons, but do some research to see if there's anything else you need to do.

I guess I stand corrected. I posted the type-s pistons being 10.6:1 earier in this thread. now I find they are really 11.0:1.

I looked at the specs of the new RSX type-s engine, and saw that it has an 11.0:1 CR and requires only 91 octane fuel, so I suppose 11.0:1 isn't imposible on crap pump gas. I still need to do my homework in this area, didn't spend much time thinking about pistons because it would require going into the block.
 
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