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Ok, I have 2000 Si. Wanting to go ALL MOTOR. DC 4-1 header, EVO exhaust, AEM cai, plugs, wires, TODA cam gears... I am debating on cams... I think I am gonna go with Crower 401s or 402s... not sure which will give me output and not fuck with my idle TOO much...

Has anyone heard stuff or know anyone who has Skunk2 cams or TODA cams, even ITR cams???? I hate how I buy parts for my car and when I get em on I end up wishing I would have gone another route... SO ANYONE please put opinions here... thanks
 

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I just drove a Si yesterday with Toda cams. They idle kind of rough, and they are very loud. Too loud for what I like, and he had a mugen Twin loop exhaust so it’s not like he had a loud exhaust.

They felt powerful to me, but Vtec was set at 7000rpm( I guess that’s where you have to set it at to get the most out of those?)

My other friend had CTR cams...You won't get as much HP out of them, but the idle is like stock, and the are much quieter.

By the way I love your wheels...What kind are they?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Those WERE Motegi MR7's till they got stolen about a month ago. :( 17 inchers. I'm buying new ones but getting 16 inch Kosei K1's in black or gunmetal.

Yeah, I hear the Todas idle like shit but they run like mad top end... but I am not really looking for top end speed since I don't usually drive around over 100 mph anyway. :D
 

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I have the Skunk2 cams. I bought them before Skunk came out with the three different stages, so I'm guessing they are equivalent to the stage 1. My idle is near perfect, although I do get occasional valve overlap because I have my cam gears set to +4 intake, and +2 exhaust. They make good power and I feel are really good street cams, which is what sounds like you are probably looking for anyways. And I've also heard that the CTR cams are good, reliable, streetable cams as well. Plus with the CTR or Skunk2 stage 1, you don't absolutely have to upgrage your valvetrain. I didn't yet, but I still plan on getting ITR springs and retainers just to be on the safe side. Hope this helped a little.
 

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the key to N/A tuning is redline + gearing.

there are two things you will need to do.

first, decide exactly how much power you want to make, and wether you want to raise your stock redline or not.

once you decide that, you need to formualte your plan of attack.

here are my suggestions, assuming you are okay with raising your stock redline, and are looking to gain about 25-35 real whp while getting yourself deep into the 14's

personally, i would not go with anything less than a stage 2 sort of cam. the crower 402's now come in a 402A, which has the stock non-VTEC cam lobe profiles and the usual 402 VTEC lobe- so you wouldn't loose any idle quality at all, and still have decent top end grunt. You should be able to make power up to 8500rpm with those cams, maybe beyond. Obviously to raise the redline you will need new springs/retainers etc. and standalone engine management. Some mile head work wouldn't hurt either. A thinner head gasket to bump the compression a few tenths of a point is also highly adviseable, maybe even milling the head or new pistons, but with a set of 402 cams, you really won't need that huge of a CR bump - let your tuner decide if you are unsure of what to do yourself.

once you've EFFECTIVELY raised the redline (that is extended the peak rpm at which you make power), to fully take advantage of it, you want to change your gear ratios. I'd suggest an ATS 4.79 final drive and a gs-r or LS fifth gear to keep your highway rpms decent.

also, i'd reccomend you ditch the DC headers. in favor of the JDM itr 4-1, or the comptech ITR 4-2-1. That DC header is fine until you start moving massive amounts of air.

N/A buildup is NOT a simple bolton effort, it requires planning and more planning. and it's expensive.

but good luck. :)
 

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I disagree with the redline + gearing method. I believe N/A tuning is all about making all the parts working together and mainly planning ahead and tuning. I could raise my redline to so and so but without all the right parts working together it would get me no where. I highly suggest the skunk stage 2's if your going the N/A route. You might need new springs and retainers but these cams make real power even more then jun3's.
 

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SpeedxRacer said:
I disagree with the redline + gearing method. I believe N/A tuning is all about making all the parts working together and mainly planning ahead and tuning. I could raise my redline to so and so but without all the right parts working together it would get me no where. I highly suggest the skunk stage 2's if your going the N/A route. You might need new springs and retainers but these cams make real power even more then jun3's.
read the last two lines of my post. :D

but how can you say that n/a tuning is not about redline + gearing?

the essence of n/a tuning is exactly that. You can only bore things out so far. Anything other than that will shift the powerband UP in the rpm range, many times to beyond stock redline.

the overlap settings on most of those stage 2 cams are tuned for an rpm range ABOVE stock redline. So to get the most out of them, you should raise the redline.

With a raised redline, you need to adjust the gearing. do you really need to hit 70mph in 2nd? no, you're better off getting a stouter final drive (numerically higher) so that your shift points stay roughly stock.

And it all works together, you can rev HIGHER, and with the new gearing, you can rev FASTER - which all translates into getting more torque to the wheels QUICKER.

so yeah, it is about planning, but your plan should include raising redline and changing gearing to suit. Talk to any n/a tuner for any type of car, domestic, jdm, whatever, they'll tell you the same - you make power n/a with redline + gearing.
 
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