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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Need help

Doing the rear shock seat bushing, pretty much burned the old MF out... now have the ES polyurethane ones... thing is the diameter is too big for the opening.
but
there's also a metal looking sleeve in the control arm... but it doesn't look like it wants to move anywhere, but if it was removed the new bushing would fit right in...



so do i need to force fit the bushing in there or remove the old metal sleeve?

i know not many people have personally done this but someone ough to know. thanks
 

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You must reuse that sleeve or get new ones .. originally I thought they did not use the metal shell, but i late found out on E/S website that they should be reused (makes the price lower) .. PROTHANE includes the shells and everything ..

I dont think you will be able to get them in by hand .. they should be pressed in with a machine ..
 

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Hyper2k said:
Need help

Doing the rear shock seat bushing, pretty much burned the old MF out... now have the ES polyurethane ones... thing is the diameter is too big for the opening.
but
there's also a metal looking sleeve in the control arm... but it doesn't look like it wants to move anywhere, but if it was removed the new bushing would fit right in...



so do i need to force fit the bushing in there or remove the old metal sleeve?

i know not many people have personally done this but someone ough to know. thanks
You need to get the metal sleeve out like you did on the front suspension. I also had a hard time doing this same one. ;) Hang in there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Freakin'H22A said:
You need to get the metal sleeve out like you did on the front suspension. I also had a hard time doing this same one. ;) Hang in there.

what did you use?

reciprocating saw? chisel/hammer? and other thougths?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
ATISTANG said:
I've used a sharp chizel and had success with that, I've also use a blow torch but you have to be very careful going that route.
what exactly would you torch? the metal sleeve itself?
the heat would make the sleeve expand, making it even harder to take out.

i've used the torch to burn out the rubber bushing and very quickly realized that the flame gets directed right at the brake lines, hence the metal plate blocking the caliper in the picture.
 

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01preluder said:
"the right tool for the joB"

Use a press and the right size race and it will come right out in seconds!
Well a 5,000 lbs*in hydraulic press didn't do the job for this exact bushing. It even have a hard time braking the bushing itself, so I decided to do it myself and prevent the linkage from braking. ;)
 
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