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rookieson2bpro said:
help
what can i do to make my 03 accord 5spd faster?
other than aem cai?
does headers really work?
what about just mufflers/tips?
any suggs?
You can quit posting bullshit threads/posts like this one and actually search, read and put effort into learning about what makes a car faster.
 

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Oil consumption

Hey how's it going?

Here's my situation, my car failed the smog test as a gross polluter. I'm curious if an engines oil consumption would affect the outcome of the test because my car consumes an excessive amount of oil. I would do an oil change on one Saturday then through regular driving for a whole week, the next Saturday I check the dip stick it is bone dry and I would have to add three courts to fill it back up to the second dot. There is absolutely no leaks, believe me I've checked. The engine is totally stock, no engine mods at all so that's not a problem.

Before I went for the test I did a tune up, changed the oil, oil filter, spark plug, spark plug wires, coil, and air filter. Still failed the test. So the shop suggested I replaced a few thing, so they replaced the o2 sensor, catalytic converter and they performed a top end engine cleaning. They said it improved the readings dramatically but still didn't pass. I asked the mechanic if the amount of oil consumption would affect anything. He said that I might need a new engine. But this engine runs really good. It hasn't given me any problems at all (setting aside the excessive oil consumption). It's just the smog test that's in the way. He also said that there might be a problem with the ECU and told me that I should bring it in to the Honda dealer because they would know what's wrong with it. I brought it to the Honda dealership but they didn't know jack s***.

I'm thinking of changing the ECU with a new one or replace the valve seals and guides to remedy the oil consumption problem. I got a Toyota Camry which had a faulty ECU whiched cause it to fail smog. I replaced the ecu and it past the next time so I'm thinking maybe this is the same situation. Maybe the mechanic is on to something. The difference is that the Camry was displaying false check engine codes and the Civic displays no check engine light whatsoever. Do I need to do an engine rebuild to fix the oil consumption? If needed, I will display the smog results. I just need to scan them. Sorry for the lengthiness. Wow I wrote a lot. Also, sorry for any typos I didn't proof read this too lazy. I hope we can find the solution because this is driving me insane. Thanks in advance all.

P.S. I almost forgot when I rev the engine at idle (I know, I know I'm not supposed to do this blah blah. :p ) it spews out this black liquid, it never did that before. My friend has the same car, when he does the same thing there's none of that junk coming out of the exhaust. I'm assuming that must be what's left of the oil.
 

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I'm going to proceed with this answer as if you are serious, although much of what you said leads me to believe you are yanking much chain here...particularly the last part about the black liquid.

Your chrystal ball here is going to be your spark plugs. If indeed you are leaking oil, and you're not seeing a leak externally, that means your piston rings are bad and oil is slipping right by them on the intake stroke, into the combustion chamber, partially burning (and gunking up the spark plug), and coming out the exhaust valve (which will be gunky), through the catalytic (which will be soaked and useless), past the 2nd O2 sensor (which will have gone bad and thrown codes at the ECU) and out the tail pipe where it makes that puddle you talked about.
The easiest of all these things to check is the spark plugs. Now that you've driven on your new ones for a while (assuming you don't still have the old ones) pull them and take a look. If you're buring as much oil as you say they will be covered in thick black slime.

As for a "rebuild" - if there's oil in the spark plugs then you do need some degree of a rebuild. It will consist of pulling the head, pulling the pistons, seating some new rings, maybe honing the cylinder walls if the old rings did damage, and reassembling with a new head gasket. Some models (you didn't say what car you had) have a reusable head gasket but a new one is never a bad idea.

I can't believe any reputable shop would do all the work on your car that you mentioned and not tell you that you obviously have a ring problem, but that's really what it sounds like.
The other thing I would say because I've had this happen myself, is to change the oil pan drain plug bolt and washer. With time those can leak. But if your oil pan is clean and dry with no signs of drips then that's not the problem.
While you are waiting for the rebuild some things that help are to clean the air filter, replace the PCV valve, clean the throttle body, and make sure your intake valve train is seated correctly. Check timing too. All of this contributes to facilitating airflow into the chamber on the intake stroke and reduces the chance that vacuum in the chamber will pull oil up from the crankcase instead of pulling air in from the intake tract.

Good luck my friend....for your sake I hope you were kidding.
 

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Wow, so when did I lose my credibility? Is it because I am a newbie? I assure you that all that I’ve stated is the truth and nothing but the truth. I’m not trying to yank anyone’s chain nor am I kidding about this situation. Why would anyone do that, does this happen often on these forums? Not passing smog isn’t a laughing matter, it’s time consuming and expensive. But I appreciate that you gave me the benefit of the doubt, thank you.

Yeah, about the black liquid maybe my description wasn’t clear, I should have said “black substance?” I said liquid because it’s somewhat wet when it exits the exhaust. It’s hard to describe. I’ll try and get photos of how this looks. I forgot to mention that there was also a bit of bluish smoke accompanying it as well.

As for the spark plugs when I last changed them they were clean. I didn’t see any irregularities at all. As a matter fact my friend and I did a compression test yesterday (with the “Haynes” manual as reference) on the cylinders; the compression was up to factory specifications and the spark plugs looked clean (no gunk present on them) when we removed them.

Sorry I didn’t provide information about my car. I knew I was forgetting something. Well anyway my car: 95 Honda Civic 1.6L D16z6.

scottigee said:
I can't believe any reputable shop would do all the work on your car that you mentioned and not tell you that you obviously have a ring problem, but that's really what it sounds like.
I was wondering about that as well. I told them how much oil the engine was burning to see if that would be a factor that will cause the car to fail the smog test but all they told me was that I’ll need to replace the engine. They never confirmed with a yes or no answer.

Well I googled "valve guides" and found some sites that deal with my problem so I’m going to look into replacing the valve guides, valve guide seals and rings. The Haynes manual also goes into detail about oil consumption. I’ll also perform all that you mentioned in the last paragraph.

Appreciate the help. I’ll post the outcome, hopefully a positive one.
 

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Good to hear you're serious...I didn't mean to have that come off as bashing your credibility, I was just covering my own ass because sometimes people do come on here posting obvious problems and then say stupid things when people try to help them.
So blue smoke is another indicator of an oil buring problem. If you're pulling the head to do valve guides you may just want to check the rings while you're in there. If you're not pulling the head then if you try to get a valve job (timing and seat cleaning/clearance check) they should tell you if its the guides that are messed up.
 

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Well i can tell no one has been writing in here but i got pulled over last night for modified exhaust, so then he asked me to pop the hood so i did, he then said "wow, thats a really big turbo" Well then he gave me a ticket for modified emission. Now i came here and read this whole forum and still have a couple of questions of an h22a setup on a 98 accord. Can i do a legit swap if i have an obdII setup here. And yes ofcourse i know i have to remove the turbo setup but is that all i have to really do or do i have to go a whole different mile to make it legal.

thanks for any comments in advance.
 

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you need to get the vacuum lines exactly like how it's done in a prelude for it to pass the ref also. if you get the BAR sticker, it's no problem.
 

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Yeah but the problem is that i have a 98 accord and the engine is a jdm h22a engine which is only obdI and the california emission stuff say that you can do a swap of engines but i has to be a same obd engine or newer engine.(or something like that) and my engine has a year marked on it and it says 91 so that probably for a 92 model. Would i still be able to pass the referee?

thanks for the comments in advance.
 

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I'm pretty sure the engine itself can be from any year as long as it has the right emissions equipment from your year.
 

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I'm so hoping you are right because I don't want to do an engine swap twice for something like that! But I'll talk to my friend (a highway patrol) he might be able to direct me to where I can get an exact answer! It's also funny that when I got pull led over it was a highway patrol who pulled me over and when he came back from writing the ticketback he kind of gave me a weird look and I asked him if he knew my friend(the highway patrol) and he said yeah we are really cool and he then asked me if we've meet before and I told him that probably once or twice and he was then being really cool to me and then he just told to drive safe and then he left! I'm hoping he was cool enough and not turn the otherside of the ticket in!

Thank ultra and I'll call and see if you are right which I hope you are so I don't have to do an engine swap! I'll make sure I put it in here for anyone who might find it helpfull!
 

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hey what does this mean?
Bureau of Automotive Repair, State of California, Dept. of Consumer Affairs
Well im really curious of that because i called the number that was given in the back of the ticket i got the 19th of last month and the number tells me the same thing? does that mean that the whole referee part isnt in affect? and if it does mean that do i still have to go through a referee? im confused because of the ticket i got and if that was suspended how would people be able to make their swap legal. or does that mean that you couldn't get a ticket for such thing? because if it does mean that, could the cop be legally able to give the ticket for modified emission when that service wasnt in affect?

please correct for any missunderstandings that i have


thanks for the help
 

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oh yeah! i remember hearing about this! there are no more ref services anymore...but you still need to check in w/ the court and pay whatever fines there are...but there's really no way for them to "check it off" unless the court orders an officer to sign you out like a regular "fix it" ticket.

this is one of those things that we need to find out how the new process works. if you could report back with your findings, it would be greatly appreciated. right now we can only guess that the worst case scenario would be you pay a fine and the sheriff will need to sign the ticket as a "fix it". the best case scenario is that the ticket just gets thrown out due to no more budget.
 

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Hey, well here with an update!

Wells seems like the budget crisis thing is over, which means that the referee inspection is back on and yeah they stated it again 10/9/08 so yeah so who ever this might help here you go, sucks because I could have gotten a referee sign off by my friend and not have to do anything to my turbo setup! Well got to back to work!
 
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