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I doubt it and if you did the cost would be ridiculous
 

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If it were possible it would probably cost upwards of 50,000 dollars.

Just get a turbocharger.
 

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ya'll are retarded, some high compression pistons and some good headwork could get you 300. You just need to find a good engine builder in your area. Being in cali, you should have no problem finding one.
 

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ya'll are retarded, some high compression pistons and some good headwork could get you 300. You just need to find a good engine builder in your area. Being in cali, you should have no problem finding one.
H22's already have high compression ratio. Adding another 100 hp from the stock power it produces will take more than high compression ratio pistons and a good flowing head.

What compression ratio are you suggesting here? even 15:1 comp ratio pistons are only going to get you a max of 220 psi in a best case scenerio on a compression check. A turbocharged F22 engine running 8 lbs of boost has the potential for 199.76 psi per cyln and they make about 200-215 hp.

If it was that simple to add 50% horsepower by getting some damn pistons and a good head wed all have 300 HP cars.

Since we're retarded tell us about your 300HP H22 that you added some pistons and a good flowing head to.
 

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ya'll are retarded, some high compression pistons and some good headwork could get you 300. You just need to find a good engine builder in your area. Being in cali, you should have no problem finding one.
HAY SMART GUY!
Even JUN cant build a 300 hp N/A motor so you think one of these sap's in America can build one? Your to new to this buddy!
it wont happen and if it did why would you do it, You will break the bank like the man said for a little 300hp
 

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its been done multiple times, but its not exactly an h22 once its done with.

www.pocketrocketsracing.com

300 is just a number. It doesnt tell you anything about how efficient the motor is. Just go to a high reading dyno and bam, you got a chart that makes you feel cool, but you get beat by cars with 40whp less.

big bore
big stroke
high compression
"loose" rod and main bearings
low tension rings
proper crankcase ventilation
race gas
race cam profiles
precision head work
custom built bolt ons
tuned length intake
tuning

it is not hard to make any motor make a high peak dyno number but peak numbers are not everything. its just a matter of making EVERY part work together to reach a goal and having the money to do so.

You cant just throw a bunch of parts together that you saw joe blow use and think you will make alot of power.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
so would you say that it would be more efficient to put a turbo on it rather than biuld up a motor? or should i say if i had a motor all biult up and was putting out the 300 and a different motor with a turbo on it and thats basically it would the turbo'd motor be more effective?
 

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so would you say that it would be more efficient to put a turbo on it rather than biuld up a motor? or should i say if i had a motor all biult up and was putting out the 300 and a different motor with a turbo on it and thats basically it would the turbo'd motor be more effective?
300whp NA is in a different ball park than 300whp turbo.

pick an aspiration and stick to it. From your reading, you have not a clue of what it takes to put an h22 to 300whp so my best advice is to find a reputable shop who has done it before to build it and send it to you in a crate.

Don Flores :number1
 

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Darth Chinko
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ya'll are retarded, some high compression pistons and some good headwork could get you 300. You just need to find a good engine builder in your area. Being in cali, you should have no problem finding one.
dude the h22a is far inferior to a k20a2 and they start to see there limits at around 270whp on pump gas n/a. you will not get 300whp just by adding what you're talking about. take your head out of your butt. that is a complete race block and build to do what you're talking about. it will cost 10's of thousands of dollars.
 

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Darth Chinko
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can I get 300 hp from a h22 n/a?
if yes then how?
if no then how much can I get and how?
why would you want a 300hp n/a 4cyl for the street? that thing would be a piece of shit on the road and get spanked by better tuned cars with far less hp simply because you're powerband would be retarded and the motor would be very unreliable. and if you have to ask you can't afford it even know where to start to do it. get a t3/t4 57 trim turbo, run 8 psi on a good tune and make more than 300hp at 5% of the cost of what you were trying to do. peak numbers mean nothing remember that and don't forget it. you want a linear power for your car on the street. the most important thing is research or you will lose alot of time and money. good luck
 

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why would you want a 300hp n/a 4cyl for the street? that thing would be a piece of shit on the road and get spanked by better tuned cars with far less hp simply because you're powerband would be retarded and the motor would be very unreliable. and if you have to ask you can't afford it even know where to start to do it. get a t3/t4 57 trim turbo, run 8 psi on a good tune and make more than 300hp at 5% of the cost of what you were trying to do. peak numbers mean nothing remember that and don't forget it. you want a linear power for your car on the street. the most important thing is research or you will lose alot of time and money. good luck
although it would be interesting and nice to see.... never the less it is not cost efficient... ITB's anyone + direct port injectors ?
 

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Darth Chinko
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although it would be interesting and nice to see.... never the less it is not cost efficient... ITB's anyone + direct port injectors ?
for the amount of money to do it. he could've made a built boosted k24/k20head combo with boost destroyed that h22 frankenstein
 

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I don't like ITB's. Its almost like another way of trying to squeeze an extra bit of HP out of an engine for any cost imagineable. When you can just do some simple upgrades internally add a turbo and some preset fuel maps on a aftermarket air/fuel management system then tune from there.

ITB's are better suited for a K series anyways not a H22 simply because of the way the intake and exhaust flows.

Kudos goes to WVU97GS-R for chiming in on the idea of just turbo and save your damn money. I'm pretty sure we've told coachgreen that before. :lol2

Coach, if you don't know why everyone uses turbos instead of superchargers these days you need to do some reading.

IMO- supercharges suck ass.
 

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Gas prices will own you before you ever get that high of power out of the car.
Gas avg yesterday in california 4.77/gal and today the avg is 4.80
Last week the avg was 4.16
Last year the avg was 3.33



Highest premium around my area? 4.33/gal and highest out of the region is about 5.09 for premium out in wrightwood (whereever that is)

Highest midgrade around my area? 4.00/gal and highest out of the region is about 4.99 for midgrade out in wrightwood (whereever that is)

Highest regular around my area? 4.11/gal and highest out of the region is about 4.89 for regular out in wrightwood (whereever that is)
 

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Gas prices will own you before you ever get that high of power out of the car.
Gas avg yesterday in california 4.77/gal and today the avg is 4.80
Last week the avg was 4.16
Last year the avg was 3.33



Highest premium around my area? 4.33/gal and highest out of the region is about 5.09 for premium out in wrightwood (whereever that is)

Highest midgrade around my area? 4.00/gal and highest out of the region is about 4.99 for midgrade out in wrightwood (whereever that is)

Highest regular around my area? 4.11/gal and highest out of the region is about 4.89 for regular out in wrightwood (whereever that is)
Why does midgrade cost less than regular?
...
& Depends on how you want to drive your car.
If you accelerate without opening the throttle too much then you should be about the same fuel economy as you would without a turbo.

When at the track you would be on the throttle as much as possible, so your fuel economy goes down a considerable amount.

Accelerate hard when you need or want to, but as a daily driver there arent too many times when you absolutely have to floor it, at least, not as many as when out on the track ^_^


I dont know why alot of people doubt the H22 can produce 300hp without heavy modification. Most stock engines can take 7-8lbs of boost without excessive wear, and an H22 on 8psi can sure as hell get close to 300hp. My friend boosted his civic's D16 to 18psi, and it put down 340hp on the dyno, it was a stock block though so it started to burn oil after 6 months of hard driving, still ran but smoked a bit of oil. Just dont go crazy with boost and your engine will remain reliable and last for a long time.

Also, notice all the stock boosted engines available, the subaru ej25, saab's are generally boosted, lots of older volvo engines are turbocharged (I pulled two tubos off of two 740's), some mercedes engines (I pulled another turbo from a 300d, also consider that all the turbos I pulled were on cars with over 200k miles on em, all wastegates at 7psi,) pt cruisers (some models), dodge srt4's, etc. A little boost is good, too much boost will start to burn out your motor.

Keep in mind there is a certain powerband that a turbo produces, generally at higher rpm's the engine produces more boost, but that depends on how big the turbo is, as well as the size of the engine powering it.

A N/A 300hp motor will outrun a turbo motor with 300hp because of the powerband, a turbo motor will take time to build boost and likely only untill 4krpm, and a N/A motor will get power sooner and quicker.

Building an H22 to get 300hp N/A will take a bit of work, needs sleeves, pistons, rings, rods, valves, ITB's, headers, springs, cams, all of which are expensive. Considering the cost of a turbo kit vs the N/A tune, id definitely go with a turbo.

Bisi-Moto created an F22a SOHC Non-VTEC engine that makes over 350hp (read in super street mag), dropped the motor into a honda insight, and is running 9.6 second quarter miles. Its heavily modified though, and since its got a 17:1 compression ratio you have to run high octane race gas. The setup is expensive though, but his is extremely quick for its class.
 

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You dont even have to turbo a K to get to 300,
get a supercharger running 6psi and your over 300hp
 

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Why does midgrade cost less than regular?
...
& Depends on how you want to drive your car.
If you accelerate without opening the throttle too much then you should be about the same fuel economy as you would without a turbo.

When at the track you would be on the throttle as much as possible, so your fuel economy goes down a considerable amount.

Accelerate hard when you need or want to, but as a daily driver there arent too many times when you absolutely have to floor it, at least, not as many as when out on the track ^_^


I dont know why alot of people doubt the H22 can produce 300hp without heavy modification. Most stock engines can take 7-8lbs of boost without excessive wear, and an H22 on 8psi can sure as hell get close to 300hp. My friend boosted his civic's D16 to 18psi, and it put down 340hp on the dyno, it was a stock block though so it started to burn oil after 6 months of hard driving, still ran but smoked a bit of oil. Just dont go crazy with boost and your engine will remain reliable and last for a long time.

Also, notice all the stock boosted engines available, the subaru ej25, saab's are generally boosted, lots of older volvo engines are turbocharged (I pulled two tubos off of two 740's), some mercedes engines (I pulled another turbo from a 300d, also consider that all the turbos I pulled were on cars with over 200k miles on em, all wastegates at 7psi,) pt cruisers (some models), dodge srt4's, etc. A little boost is good, too much boost will start to burn out your motor.

Keep in mind there is a certain powerband that a turbo produces, generally at higher rpm's the engine produces more boost, but that depends on how big the turbo is, as well as the size of the engine powering it.

A N/A 300hp motor will outrun a turbo motor with 300hp because of the powerband, a turbo motor will take time to build boost and likely only untill 4krpm, and a N/A motor will get power sooner and quicker.

Building an H22 to get 300hp N/A will take a bit of work, needs sleeves, pistons, rings, rods, valves, ITB's, headers, springs, cams, all of which are expensive. Considering the cost of a turbo kit vs the N/A tune, id definitely go with a turbo.

Bisi-Moto created an F22a SOHC Non-VTEC engine that makes over 350hp (read in super street mag), dropped the motor into a honda insight, and is running 9.6 second quarter miles. Its heavily modified though, and since its got a 17:1 compression ratio you have to run high octane race gas. The setup is expensive though, but his is extremely quick for its class.

We didn't say the h22 can't produce 300 hp, we said it can't going naturally aspirated without extreme modifications which would cost a PISS TON of money. 300 hp on a NA motor sounds like an alcohol engine to me. Hes wanting to know if it cold get to 300 hp N/A and still be a daily driver. Hes got a few threads on here and they are all geared twards his daily driven auto accord.

When you turbo an engine you need to know the Comp ratio before you start to know how much boost to run, even better is to do a compression check, which will let you know how close to a perfect compresion your engine is running. This will allow you to do some math and figure out exactly what lbs of boost will be safe to run.

You said 8 lbs of boost on an h22 right? well if it had 11:1 CR and you ran 8 lbs of boost you could spike up to 249.7 on compression. thats a LOT for a non sleeved motor. H22's aren't known for taking boost well anyways.

Theres a lot of D16 motors, and I seriously doubt 18 lbs of boost made a 1.6 L engine produce 340 hp without a NoS shot. Sounds like bs.

Turbo/supercharer > NA all day long. look up the new bmw and amg competition, both have very similar HP but the amg has a LOT more torque thanks to a superchager. Torque owns.

This is a built F series engine> check this forum Stinker’s Full F23 Build - Page 47 - everything-honda

hey holloway, superchargers suck.
 

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You should definitely install a better suspension (if you are thinking of operating on factory parts). Not to mention various drivetrain parts. Tires also.
 
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