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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Im wondering if Ill be able to drive my car untuned until I save up the $400 that I was quoted for dyno tuning. Here is my setup:

B18C1 Block
B16 Pistons
New rings, bearings, seals, etc.
Spoon 0.09" Head gasket (1ply)
Crower 63403 Stage 3 Cams
Manley Retainers
Supertech Springs
AEM Adjustable Cam gears
JDM ITR 4-1 Header
Comptech intake and icebox
Carsound Hi flow cat
Apexi N1
Blox Intake manifold
Hondata IM gasket
ACT Stage 1 clutch
Exedy 9.4lb flywheel

Id like to run it with my OBD2 P72 ECU until i can switch over to my OBD1 P28 w/ Hondata S200. Will I be ok?
 

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with your new comp. ratio and those cams i would get tuned first,it would run but it would run like shit depending on if you degreed your cams or know where to set them at timing wise
 

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Sirfallsalot243 said:
So I shouldnt run it AT ALL?

Like, I cant even drive it home or let it idle?

im sure you could drive it around but it probably wont make good power until u get your timing and a/f straight, and im sure u would want to rip on it whenever you drive it i know i would (new engine that u just spent alot of money on).... iwould get tuned first, kind of like insurance you know waht i mean ?
 

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the best thing to do is tow it to a dyno, let them break it in on the dyno, then tune it immediately after.

if you run lean or rich for even a little while, you can do serious damage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well the timing is going to be set to where my cams like to be (my builder has a bit of experience with them). For A/f ratio, im planning on turning the fuel pressure up to about 55psi with my adjustable FPR on OEM 240cc injectors. Will that be alright to drive for a little bit? Its only about a 15min drive from my house to the dyno. Towing is expensive, unless its under 5miles (AAA member. :D)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yeah, i will. It sucks though, i was hoping to break in the clutch before tuning it. Youre not supposed to go over 4k rpm with a new clutch, and ill have to take it all the way up to redline on the dyno.
 
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