[sitech]

Hello All,
My 1991 Civic Si will no longer start. The ECU fuse keeps blowing. It will blow as soon as the key is switched to the position right before the starting position (Where all of the dash lights will come on) The car will crank if I continue to attempt to start it but obviously I'm not going to get much action without the ECU. I've been searchnig the board but can not seem to find a good suggestion on a troubleshooting method for ths problem? Can anyone please help me out? It's got to be a wiring problem of some type but hoping that someone has a checklist or troubleshooting list of things that I could do before throwing in the towel and hawling it off to the dealer. Specific wires I could check? Anything??

Thanks a Bunch!
Chris

 

[pwrdbykmfdm]

could be a ground wire on either your ignitor or dizzy shorting out, check those. also lift your carpet up and check all your ecu wires.
i had this problem and my dizzy power wire was melted because moister had gotten on my ecu and over time some of the ecu wires were corroded, so check your ecu wires too.

 

[viet_83]

could be a ground wire on either your ignitor or dizzy shorting out, check those. also lift your carpet up and check all your ecu wires.
i had this problem and my dizzy power wire was melted because moister had gotten on my ecu and over time some of the ecu wires were corroded, so check your ecu wires too.

I am with u 100%. I have plm with my car that has the fuse kept blowing up. I had a shorten O2 sensor wire that cause the 15A fuse (IG labeled for Ignitioin) blown frequency, but i wasn't able to fix it myself because i'm not an electronic type of guy. I took it to the shop and they told me it was the shorten O2 sensor wire. U need to look around and find out something that shorten and cause ur ECU fuse to keep blowing up. If u can fix that, then u can start ur car.

Other word in advice, do not crank ur car soo much if u can't get it to start, it'll mess up ur distributor and cost more. U can crank it for each testing, but dont crank it just cuz u're frustrated. you want to keep ur distributor more longlivity.

Before u head to the dealership and have them fix for u because they tend to charge u alot, look around at some decent shop that does most of the electronic repairs than bodywork repair. they might charge u cheaper than those dealership.

 

[pwrdbykmfdm]

Other word in advice, do not crank ur car soo much if u can't get it to start, it'll mess up ur distributor and cost more. U can crank it for each testing, but dont crank it just cuz u're frustrated. you want to keep ur distributor more longlivity.

yeah what he said. yeah when i had that prob i kept crankin my car and i ended up killing my starter and i had to get a new one, and it drains your batt pretty bad too.

 

[viet_83]

yeah what he said. yeah when i had that prob i kept crankin my car and i ended up killing my starter and i had to get a new one, and it drains your batt pretty bad too.

hahahah. it is the pain in the ass to unbolt the starter out and sorta the waste of my time cuz at first i thought it was my starter, so i had to unbolt it which took me a long time cuz of the bolts position. So i take it over to autozone for testing to see if the starter is bad or not.. it was fine.. so yeah. i waste my time.

 

[sitech]

Thanks guys... We're finally getting some better weather this coming weekend so will start digging into the problem. It's only been a week but I miss driving the little bugger already.

Thanks!

 

[smokey220]

where is the ignitor wire and dizzy wire i have the same problem?... any word on wut was the problem

 

[smokey220]

where is they?

where is the ignitor wire and dizzy wire i have the same problem?... any word on wut was the problem

 

[slow_eh2]

are you sure your using the right amperage fuse....?

 

[sitech]

Wow. My post was from 2002. I've already traded that 1991 Hatch for another 1991 hatch in better shape.
Anyway, the problem happened to be a dead ECU. I found that my failing alternator actually overcharged the battery (killing that and requiring replacement), alternator obviously had to be replaced, then replacing the ECU finally brought the car back to life. I had wanted to replace the ECU anyway with a chipped version from Redshift Motorsports so I wasnt too upset about the failed computer anyway. Car ran excellent afterwards and actually took 2nd at the PA States in SCCA Solo with it. 190,000 miles without a rebuild! YEAH BABY!!