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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, here's the deal, got me a 92 accord dsm turbo on the f22, was getting a cel before when my clutch was going out and ceasing up the engine, well anyways replaced the clutch, and it runs fine, but now after being on the freeway and getting off back on to normal streets my cel will kick on, I check the code and it says code 7 which is TPS. Another problem I'm having, which might or might not be related, is before I switched the clutch is was slipping around 3000rpms, now its up to about 4/5000 rpms, probably still in the break in period, but I was wondering if it might be the engine giving a wierd fuel mixture because of the tps error. I didn't have the problem before I switched the clutch with code 7, I double checked all my connections and it's fine. The only cel I had before was with my map sensor, but I put in the missing link and it went away. Anyone have any problems with their car being turboed screwing with the tps? Also currently it's the stock ecu, I am going to be ordering a phearable.net ecu with crome basemap for my setup here soon, not sure if that will fix it, or if it actually is the tps. any advice? BTW: Searched the forums and couldn't find anything about turbo related problems with the tps.
 

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So your running an FMU on stock injectors right?

Did you remove the TPS at all? What you can do is test the TPS. Get a volt meter on it, and it should be around .4 to .5 at idle (closed) and around 4.5 wot (open) i believe, if it's reading higher, you need to adjust it, in order to do this, you put a voltmeter on the middle wire of the TPS(for OBD2), and check the voltage, OBD1 ECU, it's ussualy right about .49 volts, but you need it to be right around .45V, otherwise you'll get an idle that surges, ussualy between 1000 and 1600 RPMs, it'll also tend to be jerky at low RPMs. You can adjust it by turning it clock wise or counter closkwise on the throttle body. Keep in mind from the factory that the TPS is rivited on there, and you need to either us nuts when you remove the rivets, or pull the studs and use bolts.


So test it, and adjust. hopefully that makes sense.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Fixed the problem, how bout clutch break in now?

alright solved the problem, thought these two would be unrelated, but my speed sensor was unplugged, plugged it back in and reset my ecu, cel hasn't came on since. I did a google search and found some guys with a teg that was getting cel code 7 and found it to be the speed sensor. aparently these two are related closely somehow, either way it fixed it, so I'm happy now. But the clutch is still slipping above say 3000-4000. What's the best way to break it in? Just take it easy and not go abouve 3k/4k and just like granny shift for about 1000 miles? Cuz that's what I'm doing, have got on it a little bit, but not much, stopped the first time I saw it slip I haven't got on it since, figured anything above that was too hard for it until it broke in. btw: new clutch is a f1 racing stage 3 with 6 puck disc and a fidanza flywheel. Is it normal to feel some pedal shudder when it comes up occasionally why shifting with a new clutch/flywheel? About 1 in 100 shifts shudders a little bit, other than that it's fine.
 
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