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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
alright, so I just got done changing my timing belt, water pump, ditching the balance belt, adjusting the valve lash, and changing the plugs, cap, and rotor.

Aside from a few hangups (the damn crank pulley), and the fact that there's no room to work in there, things went fairly smoothly.

As some of you may remember I've been having idleing problems for an eternity now, and while this may have helped that, it's too soon to tell.

I now have a new problem though. I took it out for a test drive tonight to see how things were working...I have no low end at all. The intake is extremely loud, and the power band is rough all the way to vtec. There is a much more pronounced jump in power into vtec now than there used to be. Once in vtec though, everything seems normal. It sometimes bogs and does some other weird things.

I sort of remember something about timing problems causing bogging, but I can't remember for sure. If I was possibly off a tooth on one or both of the cams could that cause low end problems, but not high end? I did notice that the little red line on the flywheel, and the arrows on the timing pully/oil pump housing did not line up perfectly, but it was very close and I just figured I wasn't looking at it right. I've had problems previously with honda not putting the flywheel on right and messing up that end of the crank. Should I have been going completely off of the marks on the timing pulley?

Sorry for the long post, but thanks for the help
 

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Dude...

I was right where you are with my GSR. You need to get back in there and make it perfect. Not close, perfect. You will not fix it by driving it around, and you will get horrible gas milage/performance. I know it sucks, just make it perfect this time. I've felt your pain... :noo
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
TheRedPill said:
I was right where you are with my GSR. You need to get back in there and make it perfect. Not close, perfect. You will not fix it by driving it around, and you will get horrible gas milage/performance. I know it sucks, just make it perfect this time. I've felt your pain... :noo
damn, so it's just that the cam pulley's aren't quite lined up where they're supposed to be with the crank?

Would I be better off going off the marks on the timing pulley/oil pump housing instead of the timing marks on the flywheel?
 

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as many timing belt jobs that me and my dad have done i cant ever remember looking at the flywheel mark for anything.

you line up EVERYTHING EXACTLY where it should be on the timing belt side, put the belt on, and turn it by hand at least one full rotation to make sure the belt doesnt slip or anything.

time to try again
 

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You need to line it all up perfectly. I thought close was good also, but it has to be PERFECT. I had to re-set to TDC, as I had already f'ed the belt, and wasn't able to mark it on the pulleys like you were ssuspose to. I know it sucks, but it is the only way. Read the Haynes, it helped me, do it ver-batim.
 

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a good way to make sure the block is at tdc is to take out the #1 spark plug and stick a long screwdriver down the hole so its on top of the piston...turn the crank while you hold the screwdriver and youll be able to feel when it stops moving up...thats tdc...then just make sure the little marks on the cam pulleys all line up (the small marks that are 90 degrees from the 'up' signs).

something tells me this isnt your problem though, im betting its the valve adjustment you did.......if the timing belt all checks out then go back and check the valve lash....

dont drive the car when its running shittily...youre asking for something to break, i know this from [email protected]!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Weenie said:
a good way to make sure the block is at tdc is to take out the #1 spark plug and stick a long screwdriver down the hole so its on top of the piston...turn the crank while you hold the screwdriver and youll be able to feel when it stops moving up...thats tdc...then just make sure the little marks on the cam pulleys all line up (the small marks that are 90 degrees from the 'up' signs).

something tells me this isnt your problem though, im betting its the valve adjustment you did.......if the timing belt all checks out then go back and check the valve lash....

dont drive the car when its running shittily...youre asking for something to break, i know this from [email protected]!!!
it was just a quick spin around the neighborhood to see how things were workin. I'm gonna check it all out later this week again
 

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bob12345 said:
it was just a quick spin around the neighborhood to see how things were workin. I'm gonna check it all out later this week again
good work :nod
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
well, I got her taken care of today. Didn't fix my idleing problem, but I'm not too surprised. It had nothing to do with the valve lash like weenie suggested, but actually the crank arrows were way off (stupid mistake on my part). Anyway, now it's back to trying to figure out the idleing, thanks for all the help guys!!
 

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if it was really far off then you couldve bent a valve...interference engines = triple check your work
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Matt said:
have you tried the idle rest procedure? worked for me
I'm guessing you're talking about resetting the idle using the procedure outlined in helms. If so, I've tried, my car won't idle well enough to get through the procedure. as soon as I disconnect the IACV plug, I can't get it to idle no matter what I do...
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Weenie said:
if it was really far off then you couldve bent a valve...interference engines = triple check your work

it's running the same as before I changed the belt. By way off I mean about an eighth turn on the crank. So like 45 degrees at most. I don't think I bent a valve, but that would suck. I have more thing to try with this idleing thing before I take the head off and check for bent valves anyway. I may have bent one or two slightly a long time ago, but I've never gotten any firm answer from mechanics on if their bent or not, so I've never done it. It might be coming soon though, we'll see.
 

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do a compression test before you pull the head...
 

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valves bent, pull head. let me guess, cyl 1 and 4 = 90, 2 and 3 = 130?? i dont see the point in a leakdown test, seems clear to me if the car ran fine before the t belt work

sucks dude, i feel for ya
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Weenie said:
valves bent, pull head. let me guess, cyl 1 and 4 = 90, 2 and 3 = 130?? i dont see the point in a leakdown test, seems clear to me if the car ran fine before the t belt work

sucks dude, i feel for ya
all of this started long before the t-belt. Actually I think it's slightly better since the T-belt, but it's too soon to tell. It's always done better when it was cool outside, and it has been the last couple days.

Not sure what order you're referring to with the cylinders, but if you're standing at the front looking at the motor. The two on the far right closes to the T-belt are the low ones.

The reason for the leakdown is that I've never gotten a straight answer as to the problem with my car. Some have said I have a valve problem, some have said it's not internal at all, and on and on. I just want a final answer before I go ripping into the head.
 
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