[VR WHAT]

I already know how to reset the ECU, so thats not the issue. But I was wondering why sometimes if Im cruising at 80, or whatever, and punch it and hit 100 and above, my check engine light comes on. It doesn't always happen when I go above 100, just when Im cruising for a while and punch it. And it comes on right when I hit 100. It happened one time, and my fuel was cutting off at around 6500 rpm's. And its a pain in the ass resetting the ECU all the time just for this. I have a CAI, 4-1 header, cat-back, new plugs, and a vafc(which was dynoed and tuned). If any of that matters. Someone get back to me with this one. Thanx,
Chris

 

[VTECsqznN2O]

Run the code and find out what is wrong...By your ECU there is a green rubber thing with two plus in it...They dont plug into it they are just sitting there. Take the one with the two wires and put a jumper wire in. The check engine light will flash the code. It will give long solid flashes, then a bunch of quick flashes. The number of long flashes is the first number.. and the quick flashes are the second digit...(i.e.) Two long flashes and 5 quick flashes is 25.... If it stays solid that is a zero code. If you need what the code means, lemme know. I have a book with every code in the world for any car thats computer controlled

 

[VR WHAT]

Running wire test makes me kinda nervous. What do you mean by a jumper wire? What kind of wire is that? Nothing is going to short out, is it? Will I have to reset my computer and VAFC? Thanks,
Chris

 

[CivicSi2k]

Running wire test makes me kinda nervous. What do you mean by a jumper wire? What kind of wire is that? Nothing is going to short out, is it? Will I have to reset my computer and VAFC? Thanks,
Chris

no, nothing will short out..it is very simple. by a jumper wire he means connect the 2 slots of the plug. I usually take a paper clip and make it into a U shape and stick it in the green plug. Make sure it is all the way in and then turn the ignition key to on and watch the check engine light. Follow what he said for figuring out the code. Hope this helps

 

[CivicSi2k]

http://www.vtecnik-si.com/engine_code.htm

there you go, i found something better for you. Step by step with pics

 

[VR WHAT]

Thanx for the help fellas. Ill brave it out with the electricity thing and all and do it. If I have any questions, Ill definately get back to you. If not, then VTECsqznN20 Ill get back to you with the code. Deal? Thanx again,
Chris

 

[VTECsqznN2O]

no problem..just lemme know

 

[VR WHAT]

I did the code check and got 22. VTEC System Malfunction- short or open in VTEC circuit, bad VTEC solenoid valve, bad VTEC pressure switch. Now what do I do. Thanx,
Chris

 

[VR WHAT]

Anyone please!

 

[VTECsqznN2O]

My code book says "Bad VTEC Oil Pressure switch,VTEC spool Vlavle or faulty switch/valve wiring" check all of the wiring to and from the VTEC solenoid. If all that checks out find your VTEC solenoid is most likely bad....Happens some times..Your car should still be under warranty. But problem is, you need to put it back to stock otherwise they will say something you did screwed it up, voiding your warranty. This means even raising your car back to stock...Honda can be dicks when it comes to warranty stuff...Unless you are cool with someone there. Otherwise, you can buy a new solenoid from honda most likely for around $150 and up. Or you can buy a solenoid from a scrap yard...see if they will sell you one off of a motor they have or if they have just the solenoid.

 

[VR WHAT]

Thanx

 

[HaadkoeVTEC]

You might want to chack all of the wiring to that VAFC of yours... Just a thought before you go spending $$$ on a new Solenoid.

 

[VR WHAT]

I did have all the wiring checked and they said it was fine. But I guess that Apex-i updated thier instructions on their site switching a wire. Thats what Tuan said over in the Integra forum. That switching should make the light go away.
Chris