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On my way to work this morning, I hit a stop light where the city was mowing the lawn, and a dam rock or something came up from it and smacked the side of my drivers door. I could hear it over the dam stereo. When i got to work I got out to check it and it actually isnt that bad, as far as size, but it seems like a layer of (paint??) came off the spot.
My question is how fixable is this? Can the spot be treated or does the whole dam door have to be repainted? And I'm sure this isnt something i can DIY right?
Any info would be geatly appreciated!
Thanks!!!
 

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post a pic and we can help, its one of those things that you dont know till you see it, theres a few of us that work in bodyshops, but not many
 

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Go to the dealer and purchase the OEM touch up paint...

Then Clean throughly and dry the chipped area. Next you would have to apply the touch up paint in thin layers (this takes time). Apply layer by layer, and let it dry in between layers. If the car is metallic, the key is to apply a very thin layer each time so that the metallic flakes dont sink to the bottom of the chip.

So after the chip is filled up- the chipped area should be filled with touch up paint and it is not leveled (not even/smooth).

Now you have two choices: A. Buy Langka's Blob Eliminator to remove the excess blob or B. Purchase Wet Sanding Paper 2000-3000 Grit and sand it down.

If you go with B, let the sand paper soak a few hrs or even overnight before using it. Preferably use a sanding block or something that has a flat surface. Lub the area a lot while wet sanding; you may want to carry a spray bottle with a bit of car wash + water to keep it lubed up. When sanding the area go in one direction, do a few passes and make sure it goes over the original paint too (not just the chipped area). Always check your work, if its not leveled keep going, it shouldn't take many more passes. But remember to stop and check.

Now after the chip is leveled with the original paint, the area you wet sanding should be hazy/ marred/ scratched. Now use a rubbing compound, ie: 3M PERFECT-IT III RUBBING COMPOUND (fine or medium grit) and go over the scratched area with the rubbing compound using back and forth motion. After a while, the scraches should be pretty much be gone. Then finish up with a Final Polish, ie: 3M PERFECT-IT SWIRL MARK REMOVER to make it shine again.


*I'd recommend using 3000 Grit if available, becuase when you use the rubbing compound, the scratches are easier to remove than using 2000 Grit.


Here's a page where I found the stuff on Autopia, http://www.guidetodetailing.com/articles.php?articleId=27, there are more details and some pictures for reference
 

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Edison_Chen said:
*I'd recommend using 3000 Grit if available, becuase when you use the rubbing compound, the scratches are easier to remove than using 2000 Grit.

e
the 3m perfect is a 3000 grit coumpound, you can take up to 1000 grit scratches out, as long as you follow the steps

also these are the steps for the 3m perfect-it, (in correct order)

extra cut- takes out 1000 grit scratches(wool pad)
rubbing -coumpound removes scratches from extra cut(wool pad)
machine glaze-"swirl mark remover" (foam pad)
finish glaze- final wax, by hand you could use a 3/32" throw da iff you have one

mind you eack bottle costs like $25 and the wool pad's like $18, and the foam is $30
 
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