Just got a competition flywheel and clutch, got as far as installing the flywheel, just got a bit stumped by the clutch install, basically here is a picture of the pressure plate on the flywheel, no clutch disc:
the pressure plate fits nicely and you can see the locating dowel is fully poking out:
Now with the clutch disc in place, this is the way I'm putting the clutch in btw, with the wider side facing the pressure plate:
And the flat side facing the flywheel:
So now with the clutch disc in place:
Dowels still have a way to go but there is no distance between the clutch and the flywheel:
I'm probably doing nothing wrong but this is my first clutch install so I wanted to make sure I was doing it right! When I start the bolts they dont line up perfectly and its difficult to tighten them up by hand, and if I use a wratchet I feel like I'm squashing the clutch disc! So am I doing anything wrong or am I just being a noob? :lol:
Also I used a crank pulley locking tool to lock the crank in place but when I was removing and installing the new flywheel it did move slightly in both direction, so after the flywheel was installed I just turned the 19mm crank pulley bolt anti-clockwise a few times to make sure the engine internals will rotate properly the next time I fire it up, is that ok?
well when the clutch is assembled like that it is in the disengaged state (when your foot is off the clutch pedal) so it should be squeezing the disc, if it wasn't then your car wouldn't move when you put it together
Fitted the Competition Ultralightweigh Flywheel and Stage 1 Gravity series 6 puck clutch, having a few issues:
1. Biting point is too high, been told not to adjust the clutch pedal as the hydraulic clutch system should sort that out but I'm not really convinced it will.
2. I get a rotating noise when driving along in any gear, sort of like the friction disc is spinning very close to the flywheel but not actually making contact, although this cant be the case as it grips nicely and obviously if its moving the clutch is engauged.
3. Loud rumbling on deceleration, I THINK it goes away when I dip the clutch but not 100% sure.
I've only done about 12 miles on it so far, didn't want to keep driving it incase it was going to damage the clutch. This was my first clutch install but I followed the guides on here perfectly, torqued everything down in stage so it evenly gets bolted up, greased up the new release bearing/clutch fork/input shaft, fitted a new pilot bearing into the back of the flywheel. The car actually drives fine just these weird noises which are putting me off
Are you sure that the clutch disk was supposed to go in the way you have it? They are directional usually.
I also presume you used the alignment tool to put the clutch in?
As bruce said, always be sure the torque was correct, and that you don't go around in a circle, like when you put lug nuts on. Always criss cross pattern. Same with the flywheel bolts when you put that on.
Did you replace your throwout bearing while you were in there?
Are you sure that the clutch disk was supposed to go in the way you have it? They are directional usually.
I also presume you used the alignment tool to put the clutch in?
As bruce said, always be sure the torque was correct, and that you don't go around in a circle, like when you put lug nuts on. Always criss cross pattern. Same with the flywheel bolts when you put that on.
Did you replace your throwout bearing while you were in there?
Yeah I did all that, there was no directional markings on the disc so I called Comp clutch to check which way it goes in and thats the way they told me so I hope its right! Although that would explain the noises I'm having...
you actually might have torqued the flywheel down to much. had issues with this once, all sorts of noises and engine issues. actually when I first put the flywheel on I just put them on criss cross with an impact and the engine would move at all. I then took it back apart and torqued it down and it would move with resistance. I ended up using less torque than recommended to get it on right. but it drove right and everything was fine. locktight is your friend.
1. The biting point is high because the clutch is still new, working itself out is another way of saying as it breaks in properly. You can't expect a new clutch to grab like the old one right away. Especially after only 12 miles.
2. The whirling sound is again because the clutch isn't broken in yet.
3. This is the only thing I am confused on, I would have to hear what you mean. The deceleration should be a bit faster than stock due to the lightened flywheel. But that shouldn't cause the rumbling sound. and could be a number of things in the rotating assembly. Something might be a tooth off or something may not be tightened properly. What fluid are you using in the trans?
Torqued the flywheel down to 87ft lbs, pressure plate to 19ft lbs as stated in my Haynes manual.
Also I tested to see if the noise could be anything else like driveshafts or something by driving up to 20mph, put the car into neutral then switched off the car, no more noises! Gotta be the clutch
* I torqued up clutch and fly in 4 stages in a criss cross pattern
* Used the clutch allignment tool to centre the friction plate
* Installed the pilot bearning from the back of the flywheel
* Cleaned the flywheel and pressure plate with brake cleaner to remove finger marks
* Greased the release bearing, clutch fork, pivot ball, input shaft (very light layer)
Here's a pic after installation, anything look wrong here? friction plate looks centered properly in line with the pilot bearing
Your installation looks very through, I would say clutch chatter however it's not commonly experienced after the clutch is fully engauges.
Also the alignment tool does not do anything other than make sure it's easy to shove the spline from the transmission into the pressure plate and clutch disk. When everything is bolted down correctly it's impossible for the plate/clutch disk to be "mis-aligned".
That's all an alignment tool does is center the plate for the transmissions shaft.
I think thats just the pic, the centre all looks lined up and I really don't see how I could have done that wrong seen as the flywheel has locating dowels to position the pressure plate.
When I installed the flywheel, there were 8 holes for bolts in the crankshaft, but another hole in between 2 of the holes, you can see it in the pic below (top left):
Should I have made a note of how the flywheel came off in relation to this hole? I noticed the pressure plate would only line up one way with the dowels on the flywheel, so therefore the flywheel must not be perfectly symetrical.
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