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Discussion Starter #21
Problem 2 & 3 resolved!!

Turned out it was my new RMF exhaust manifold I fitted along with the clutch, jacked the car up today and noticed the manifold was making contact with the lower H brace (there was about 2cm clearence when I fitted it), so took the brace off and just to be sure I put my OEM manifold back on and no more weird noises!! :w00tz

I will fit the RMF again at some point, I think it was making noise 2 because all the manifold to head bolts weren't tightened down to the same torque as the design of the manifold doesn't allow access by a torque wrench to all of the bolts, either that of the head on it is warped!

Still got a high biting point but we'll see how it is after the bed in period, thanks for all your help guys! :D
 

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Still got a high biting point but we'll see how it is after the bed in period, thanks for all your help guys! :D
a hydraulic clutch does that. If it didn't disengauge within the first inch or so of you pressing the pedal down it would mean there is air in the line or the hydraulic seals in your slave cyln were bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Maybe 2 inches after its engaged! Haha

I really want to adjust it, the MC is relatively new so I doubt the seals are bad although I did bleed it relatively quickly, could air in the system really cause a high pedal? My mechanic rekons the new MC was poorly adjusted when it was installed as there is about a inch of free play!
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Maybe 2 inches after its engaged! Haha

I really want to adjust it, the MC is relatively new so I doubt the seals are bad although I did bleed it relatively quickly, could air in the system really cause a high pedal? My mechanic rekons the new MC was poorly adjusted when it was installed as there is about a inch of free play!
 

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Discussion Starter #26
If there was air in the system wouldn't it eventually work its way out anyway? I'ev done 200+ miles on the clutch now!
 

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Super Nazi Mod
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no its a closed system.

look under the dash there should be an adjustment for the pedal.
 

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Just to make sure I'm understanding this right.. When you say "high pedal"

you mean that the clutch only engauges when the pedal is all the way up? That if you push the pedal down it will disengauge the clutch(go into neutral) WAY before the pedal hits the floor?

If the air is completely blead out the pedal will feel very firm at the top of its ride height, and once pushed an inch or so past where it sits at the top the clutch should be disengauged. You should have at least 2-3 inches of additional travel before the pedal hits the floor.

If you have air in the lines then the pedal will only start to firm up 1/2 way down its travel and there will only be about 1 inch left after the clutch disenauges before it hits the floor.- bleed the lines if this is the case.

If your wanting to take all the slop out of the pedal where its got that slight play before you have resistance from the hydraulic system, then do as RedWabbit said earlier and use the clutch pedal adjustment so that its top ride height is also where it starts to push against the master cyln. just don't make the top too stiff, as you can end up with the pedal always having a little pressure on it, you don't want this- imagine always keeping your foot on the pedal with light pressure on it-. A tiny bit of play is good and keeps the clutch fully engauged.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Thanks for the info.

I've rebled the clutch, feels the same so I must have done it right the first time.

The engagement point was high before, I adjusted the push rod under the dash and now its spot on, although there is more freeplay now but not bothered about that!

So all good now, thanks to everyone for there help :)
 

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Super Nazi Mod
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good to hear.
 

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Problem 2 & 3 resolved!!

Turned out it was my new RMF exhaust manifold I fitted along with the clutch, jacked the car up today and noticed Vidmate VLC the manifold was making contact with the lower H brace (there was about 2cm clearence when I fitted it), so took the brace off and just to be sure I put my OEM manifold back on and no more weird noises!! :w00tz

I will fit the RMF again at some point, I think it was making noise 2 because all the manifold to head bolts weren't tightened down to the same torque as the design of the manifold doesn't allow access by a torque wrench to all of the bolts, either that of the head on it is warped!

Still got a high biting point but we'll see how it is after the bed in period, thanks for all your help guys! :D
it didn't disengauge within the first inch or so of you pressing the pedal down it would mean there is air in the line or the hydraulic seals in your slave cyln were bad.
 
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