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Discussion Starter #1
About a year ago, I had my master cylinder replaced (was leaking) by Acura. Then in March, my clutch went out... I replaced it w/ Centerforce Dual Friction and ACT Prolite Flywheel (new throwout bearing too). Clutch started squeaking when I let it out after it warmed up and felt a little weird. Took it to Acura. They relubed the throwout bearing and cleaned everything. Worked for like a week, then squeaking. Took it back... they did the same thing. Fixed for another week, then squeaking again. Drives fine, shifting seems a lil rough, not grinding, just a lil rough, nothing real different (isn't that all tegs pretty much though?).

Anyway, been driving w/ the squeaking for awhile, and Acura kept saying it was just the throwout bearing needing lube. Now that its getting cold, the shifting has been getting bad. Almost seems like its grinding in a way when I shift for the first 10 minutes or so until the car warms up.

I went and checked it out.... squeaking is coming from the master cylinder they replaced.

Now when I start my car I can only shift into reverse until the car is somewhat warm. The clutch is not engaging at all until it warms up. If I put it in reverse, then I can shift some in other gears but not really until warm.

Taking car to Acura on Friday... any ideas on what it might be before they give me another throwout bearing excuse? Its not the synchros is it... i don't have that kind of money, and besides it doesn't seem like a synchro problem...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah I actually replaced the fluids in both b/c of the problem w/ teh squeaking. I just did that about a month ago. The clutch line has all new fluid now, bled correctly. The transmission is now filled up with fluid... that was one hell of a bitch to get the new fluid in though.
 

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what weight gear oil did you put in the tranny? you did use gear oil right? nad how full did you you make it?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I added whatever oil the haynes manual recommended... i can't remember what it was maybe 10W-30 or something? Anyway, I followed the recommendations in that manual and added the fluid by jacking up the front end and then filled the transmission until the top plug was leaking out fluid. I think that was right... at least thats what haynes said to do...
 

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Dude...why are you going to take your car back to Acura, they obviously dont know what the hell they are doing. I can tell you from personal experience never take it to a dealership, take it to a local tranny shop and have them look at it.
 

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The squeaking is coming from an internal trasmission bearing. As for the difficulty putting in gears, the solution is simple. All you need is new bushings.

You need the following bushings:
1 Shift Linkage Bushing
1 Shift Stabilizer Bushing


These should be no more than $15. Stop taking the car to the dealer!!! Take it to a transmission shop!!!
 

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I would check your pedal adjustment, in putting a new master cylinder the dealer may have messed it up (since they really seem to know what they are doing) with a cable clutch u can adjust it to compensate for a slipping clutch. but with a hydraulic (what u have) this isnt possible to do. the adjustment has to be right in order to engage and disengage the clutch properly.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
alright here's what is going on so far... i took it to acura (and i've been doing that b/c they replaced the clutch master cylinder and warranty their work on that kind of stuff). They said that the squeaking is from the pressure plate and the plate is defective. The clutch is not completely disengaging and therefore, the clutch and pressure plate should be replaced along w/ new bearings. They want over 900 hundred dollars. The clutch and flywheel have less than 7,000 miles on them. Clutch = centerforce dual friction, flywheel = ACT prolite, both should last pretty much forever w/ my moderate mods. I told them to check the master cylinder, but they didn't.

So I told them to fuck off.... took my car home, checked the pedal height and free play.

First, there is no free play.
second, the pedal height is around 5.5"... haynes says 6.5" is right... would that be it? Is the master cylinder not being depressed all the way (well valve in it at least) and therefore the clutch is not completely engaging/disengaging? Im going to pull the master cylinder out tomorrow, check it over and then put it back in and readjust pedal height and free play... let you know if it works... and if it does acura is going to be responsible and will owe me a lot of money. Trust me I'll make sure they experience my wrath too.
 

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10W30 in the tranny huh most gear oil is right around 90, i think u better change it again with gear iol, not motor oil;) :p
 

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rdline87ta94gsr said:
alright here's what is going on so far... i took it to acura (and i've been doing that b/c they replaced the clutch master cylinder and warranty their work on that kind of stuff). They said that the squeaking is from the pressure plate and the plate is defective. The clutch is not completely disengaging and therefore, the clutch and pressure plate should be replaced along w/ new bearings. They want over 900 hundred dollars. The clutch and flywheel have less than 7,000 miles on them. Clutch = centerforce dual friction, flywheel = ACT prolite, both should last pretty much forever w/ my moderate mods. I told them to check the master cylinder, but they didn't.

So I told them to fuck off.... took my car home, checked the pedal height and free play.

First, there is no free play.
second, the pedal height is around 5.5"... haynes says 6.5" is right... would that be it? Is the master cylinder not being depressed all the way (well valve in it at least) and therefore the clutch is not completely engaging/disengaging? Im going to pull the master cylinder out tomorrow, check it over and then put it back in and readjust pedal height and free play... let you know if it works... and if it does acura is going to be responsible and will owe me a lot of money. Trust me I'll make sure they experience my wrath too.
Yea dude...Im in the process of going to court with Acura too, they told me i needed a new engine and i took it to another shop and they unplugged a oil valve and it has been fine ever since. NEVER TAKE IT TO THE DEALERSHIP!!!! they will only screw you over in the end.
 

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second, the pedal height is around 5.5"... haynes says 6.5" is right... would that be it? Is the master cylinder not being depressed all the way (well valve in it at least) and therefore the clutch is not completely engaging/disengaging? Im going to pull the master cylinder out tomorrow, check it over and then put it back in and readjust pedal height and free play
u dont have to pull the master cylinder to adjust it...just get under ur dash and adjust it from the back of the pedal. you will see a bolt and bracket on the back of ur clutch pedal. loosen or tighten that bolt to adjust the pedal. Im not sure how high it should be, but if its too much one way it will make the clutch not disengage all the way and if its too much the other way it wont engage all the way. so for lack of a better word u have to "tune" it. Id raise it up a bit, drive it around and see how it works. if it starts slipping once it warms up u have gone to far.

10W30 in the tranny huh most gear oil is right around 90, i think u better change it again with gear iol, not motor oil
when i first did my clutch i was told to put 75w 90 gear oil in and the second time i had to pull my trans i was told by alldata (my schools diagnostic computer) to put in 10w 30 motor oil...so both have worked for me so far :rolleyes:
 

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keep rollin the eyes til your tranny grenades........GEAR OIL goes in the tranny not MOTOR OIL......alldata isnt as good as you think it is, go to honda and ask them what to put in your manual transmission i bet they say a high weight gear oil no offense intended but after being a tech you tend to learn these things............

(ps if you liv ein a warm or hot climate 1030 may seem fine but that dont mean its right)
 

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DaWickedOne said:
Dude...why are you going to take your car back to Acura, they obviously dont know what the hell they are doing. I can tell you from personal experience never take it to a dealership, take it to a local tranny shop and have them look at it.
Unless it is under warranty... *grin
 

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keep rollin the eyes til your tranny grenades........GEAR OIL goes in the tranny not MOTOR OIL......alldata isnt as good as you think it is, go to honda and ask them what to put in your manual transmission i bet they say a high weight gear oil no offense intended but after being a tech you tend to learn these things............
didnt mean it as i was rolling my eyes at you i meant i didnt really know which was better as ive had no probs with either...go with gear oil then....but in the acura manual that came with the car it says 10w30 motor oil...
 

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Discussion Starter #16
ok so i took out the master cylinder, cleaned everything in it, checked it and sounded like the valve was moving fine. I put it back and readjusted the pedal height (actually I think I went a bit far, so i'll just climb under the dash and redo that later). I bled the system completely.

Still having the problem.

I also had my girlfriend press the clutch in and yes, the squeaking is coming from the damn clutch again. But still what would cause two clutches of mine to be bad? I mean to ruin a centerforce in only 7,000 miles something must be fucked up... but acura said nothing... so now im lost at where to go, should I just replace the master cylinder completely?
 

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DOHC EF3 said:
10W30 in the tranny huh most gear oil is right around 90, i think u better change it again with gear iol, not motor oil;) :p

Actually honda used to put 10-30 SAE motor oil in its trannys before they deveolped Honda MTF (Honda Manual Transmission Fluid). You can always put 10-30 SAE motor oil in your tranny and it does no damage at all. The reason they say you need HONDA MTF is so they can make the money, not the auto parts stores. So the motor oil has absolutely nothing to do with the transmission damage unless you allowed the level to drop.

Also I believe many of you need to start learning how to fix your own cars. It is really simple and saves you lots of money!!! If you don't have a problem with spending bank on labor then disregard this paragraph.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Alright, I've changed the fluids, bred the line perfectly, pulled the master cylinder and inspected it, readjusted the pedal height and free play and still no real luck... shifts a lil better but not as good as it should.

I think I might just replace the master cylinder altogether. Otherwise, I don't have the resources to pull my own tranny and inspect the clutch and all equipment. So thats where the next problem arises.

As far as bushings goes, I think this problem goes a little beyond just the bushings as the pressure plate is squeaking, the shifting is very rough if there is any at all. However, the transmission itself should be fine because I can shift well once the car is warmed up, its just a little rough sometimes.

So for now replace the master cylinder, if that doesn't work, who knows?

:confused:
 

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your bushings are making it hard for you to shift gears. When thee bushings are cold they are hard and stiff making it harder for them to absorb impact thus causing more resistance. However when your car warms up the bushings become softer making it easier to shift lessening the resistance. If you replace the factory bushings with polyurethane ones your shifts will be smoother. You can keep thinking that this simple problem is not making your shifts hard but you would be mistaken. There is a saying in science:


" All things being equal the most simple answer is the correct one."

Ask around on this board and you will find that the bushings are your problem!!!
 
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