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Discussion Starter #1
I`m planning on dropping a B18B into my 2000 Civic sedan. It currently has a D series engine and is auto. I`m get a B18B with manual tranny. Does anyone know where I can get a barney style braked down of a swap? Thanks for your help!!!
 

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I'll move this to the hybrid forum, you may get better results there...
 

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sounds like a gateway customer calling, "I got x and need you to walk me through the installation..." It sucks hanging on the phone with a duck tryin to install some replacement hardware in their computer...this one lady could not open the case. The case didn't even have screws it had release tabs....luckily she requested onsite and she had purchased it. she tried for 15 minutes to get the cover off.....and then she was bitchin at me because dell sends people out to install stuff....she was like i almost bought a dell, so i dispatched onsite....she didn't even think the part would fix her problem when that was clearly the problem..she tried to get her daughter to get the cover off and she was like i'm gonna break a nail.....imagine if i did get the cover off. then i would have had to install the card then get drivers and then it probably wouldn't work cause it would be half way plugged in....and the lady would deny it ahhhhhhhhhhhh..what a dumb bitch, sorry.....but she was a rude bitch and i couldn't wait to get off that call. but anyway good luck with your swap.
 

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just wanna let you know that you wont be happy with that swap.........
 

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just my opinion, but your car wont be all that much faster then it is now i think you would be a lot happier with a B18C1 swap, just based on the power to weight ratio alone the B18B swap is not that fesable in your car which weighs in at about (stock) 2359 lbs vs. the LS integra which weighs in at (stock) 2639lbs......which is only a 280 LB difference and only about a 30 flywheel hp difference (not sure no stock hp for your motor), now if you took a B18C1 which (stock) weighs in at 2672lbs which is a 313lb difference and then you get about 60 flywheel hp difference, and you get the high end hit of vtec and all of the tuning options (read: street legal greddy turbo kit (if you want to stay street legal)) the car would have a better power to weight ratio with the GS-R motor and you would be happier in the long run, LS-Vtec is just not worth it if you are thinking about it..........
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I hear you and I was going to go with a GSR motor but they are much more expensive and harder to find. Also I don't want V-tec because I`m going to build the engine from the inside out making it able to hold at lest 15 pounds of boost from the turbo I`m going to install. And correct me if I`m wrong but V-tec and turbos don't mix. I read many articles that the V-tec did not allow the turbo to spool up enough and in some cases destroyed the engine. Whats your opinion? Good looking out though!!
 

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this guy is just wondering if there is a walk through to swap an engine. he didn't ask for your self righteous opinion on what you think is he should do, geez
 

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first of all rockwell shut your daymn mouth because you probably dont know shit i didnt ask for your self riteous opinion about what this thread was about, if you dont like it then dont read the thread.........moving along..........vtec and turbo is good.....basically it would feel like a second turbo when vtec kicks in, look at all the turbo drag cars.....Bergenholtz, Papadakis etc....running turbo and low ass times......vtec and turbo is very good.....the LS turbo is a good setup but what you need is a lighter car to put it in.....you would see faster times with a GS-R turbo in your car then an LS turbo runnin the same setups (15 psi...etc)...BTW a stock block can take 12psi (roughly)........the turbo is pretty much completely spooled once vtec kicks in, turbo usually kicks in at about 3000-3500 rpms (depends on psi, etc)....and vtec is 6700.......so it just adds to the top end power that you get from a turbo.........now supercharger and vtec is pointless because a supercharger disables vtec.......if you are gonna do a full build up i would just save up for a B18C1...you will be happier with the numbers you will lay down.......
 

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CRXtc said:
first of all rockwell shut your daymn mouth because you probably dont know shit i didnt ask for your self riteous opinion about what this thread was about,
You should take that back...never under estimate a member, you chose the wrong member to mess with.

First off what does your sig say "1991 HF CRX w/ LS MOTOR" why didnt you get a b18c motor....the power to wieght ratio is....STFU, youre speaking in ironic terms

Anyways, rockwell is an experienced mech who helped me do my first ls/vtec setup...hes ran countless drag events so Id say he does know what hes talkin about.

There is no flame-war here....but what this topic was all about was instructions oh How-To drop in a motor. Here you are saying get a b18c1 motor...do you think this guy has a lot of money on his hands? Do you know the $$$ difference when it comes to a b18b and b18c? Its like night and day...respect the guy for what he has...dont just say CRXtc: 'just wanna let you know that you wont be happy with that swap........." come on now, what kind of help is that, dont say anything if its a negative response.

A ls engine is raw...there are countless mods you can do to it. VTEC aint the shit....why do u think drag cars take out the vtec counter-parts? Crane designed a system for this, you might want to check it out. Why did TODA make killer cams...Made for b18c engines? huh??? A VTEC engine with 2-lobed cam shafts...wheres the 3rd VTEC lobe? Its no needed


Congrats on the new engine sprayedbyNOS....dont let people put you down saying you should/ve gotten this. IMO, a b18b is a nice engine
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks Jayman for your encouregment. I did a lot of research on how V-tec works with different after market parts and have come to a conclusion that Vtec is great for a stock motor with a few bolt-ons. And even if you are going balls to the wall on an all motor setup it does help. But for forced induction more often than not you run into problems. I live in chicago and we have a performance shop called Drivers Image, the tech guy there that does all the big projects talked to me about alot of things and they have three project cars that they are working on two of them are boosted and the other is all motor and on the boosted ones they took of the Vtec. Also yes I have a sedan and most people would think that it is heavier than most civics but it doesn't have power windows, sunroof, or cruze control and a lot of other things that an SI has. Also I have a carbon-fiber hood which does help on weight reduction. I can't prove it but I 100% sure it is among the lighter civics out there. Thats why I went with the B18B1. It is a great engine to build and is easier to find and easier on the pocket. I am not going to install it for a little while because I`m tearing it down and rebuilding it with just about anything I can after market. I'm still not to confident in swapping yet also I`m still trying to learn more. But like the thread says; if anyone has any kind of guidence please help me thanks.

P.S. Please don't fight amongst each other we are all here for one reason, To build our dream car!!! Thanks!!
 

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hey sprayedbyNOS - we're in the same boat. I've been posting all over trying to get help picking an engine. I made a pretty complicated spreadsheet with P/W and cost of engine+installation. I got these numbers for the b16a2, b18b1,b18c1 and compared them to my stock D16y8 as well as a stock Si and a stock Prelude. I also looked at them all blown at 6 lbs - approximately a 40% increase.
When matched up with cost (I even looked at how many P/W points you get per dollar) I landed right back where I started - the B16a2. The b18b1 saves you around $600, but your unmodified P/W is less than a stock Si (which I have decided is way too slow). Now you said you're going to run 12 lbs so you'll go a lot farther for less than I planned on doing to the LS motor; but for me (the guy who wants an affordable, street legal, reliable quick sleeper) the B16 looks like the way to go.


Now that I read all this I should probably delete it cause you already bought the engine, but I'll leave it up there in case somebody else wants to read it. Let me know how you like the B18b unmodified when you install it. And keep me posted on your mods - I'd like to see how you like it.
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #15
SCOTTIGEE-- Whats up man, thanks for your input, I always appriciate a good suggestion. Well I was going to go with the B16A2; as a matter of fact I now a guy that is selling one (JDM) with the transmission, it is OBD I though and my car is OBD II and it is not a good idea to go from II to I. I went with the B18B1 because although it does have 20HP less than the B16A2, it is a 1.8L as opposed to a 1.6L. A 1.8L can handle a lot more boost than a 1.6L. Also I think for what I`ll be doing to this engine it will be able to eat SI's, GSR's, SH's, RSX's, and I will even be so bold to say a GS-T, the cream of the crop! I really think that the B16 is a great engine, but I`m so tired of seeing all these 12 and 13 sec. B16's, I want something different and show people what a non-Vtec, turbo charged 1.8 can do. I am not putting it until spring 2003 because I haven't finished building the inside yet, and I`m not confident enough that I can do it with out messing something up. But I will keep everyone up to date when I drop it in and run it for the first time. And chances are I`ll be here quite often posting threads like "Shit my engine wont start!!" or "HELP ME FIND MY PISTONS, I THINK ONE LANDED IN CALIFORNIA AND THE OTHER IN FLORIDA!!" talk to you later.
 

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proud owner of a civic sedan w\ls engine

Im a proud owner of an ls engine in my civic.....i have lost a few but i have also busted some vtec ass as well. mod to the bone....now granted i do have a type r intake and throttle body, crane cam, aem gears, prelude injectors JR fule pump front mount cold air, 4-1 header apexi N1 exuast.fera valves stainless, eagle rods. now putting the engine in is no beggie. it fits right in make sure you have the correct engine mounts, the correct tranny mounts, the right wrie harness and you should be fine. you run you ac compressor fron you d series engin and your radiator but i found it better to later on get the after market radiotor and use the LS ac compressor or go with out ac all together. more power.the choice is yours.......i like the LS and if you have any problems just pick up an integra manual for that engine from like Barnes and boble or some your gonna to need it any way or just save up 400 to 500 bucks and let a pro handle the job thats the best way.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
What year is your Civic? Did you swap your own motor? Was it automatic before you swapped it? (Because mine is) When everthing was said and done how much did you spend, I mean to the last nut and bolt? How long did it take? Will the B18 belt match up to my D16 AC pulley, if I drop it right in? Sorry for all the questions 4doorblower, it,s just that you did what I`m about to do. Thanks!! I`ll probably be bothering you again, I hope you don't mind..... if you do let me know and I`ll stop asking questions. Thanks again.
 

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Its no problem Bro.....well the cost is what ever you paid for the motor plus another 1000 to make sure everything is right if you do a stright up stock. as far as the pully goes the guy who helped install my B18b made it work some how but it was not the same as before so i suggest you use the LS pulley. just to save on some cash later or get some after market pulleys like i did...AEM are the Best. next my car is a 1994 5th gen car and yeah it was automatic when i got....if yours is automatic you need to get a donor set from a manual car of the same year you need the clucth pedal the shift linkage the master cylinder and some other stuff i will get the ingredients for ya later. but it must be from your generation and you can pick this stuff at your local junker for around 100 bucks, by all means make sure you check your wire harness for any infrations that was a mistke on my part and my sensors war all messed up cuase of tps.......like i said before make sure you have all the mounts.......if not thats another 500 buck you have to vomit out........including the tranny mounts as well vomit again about 200 to 300 bucks dont worry about any of that other bull like guage cluster and all that im still using my automatic cluster the only thing is my PRNDL is there...big deal. To make sure i was doing it right i got a guy who i knew he knew what the hell he was diong....i paid him 300 bucks in installments of course and we got busy, started on a friday and finished that monday morning. a fun project to complete and beleive me you will not be disapointed pulls like a bitch at the line....and when you start the bolt on shit....ohhh weeeee the response she will give is slammin.......any thing else cuase i may have left out somethings let me know peace.........
 

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Discussion Starter #19
You gave me the goose bumps when you discribed the difference that engine made!!! Well one thing you should know before we continue is that I am not like most people and just talk about doing this and never do it. I am going to prepare the engine over the winter. I am buying pistons, rods, crank, valves, retainers, springs, cams w/gears and pulleyes. I`m hoping to have everything done to the engine before February. Then I`m going to work on the transmission, not to much just a better clutch and flywheel. By the end of March I`ll be ready to drop it in. After it is in I`m buying a Stage 2 turbo from Drag. That is my schedule. For parts involving the swap. Will I need a pedal assembly from the same generation Civic as mine (6TH)? Will I be using the ECU from a 6Th Generation manual LS or 6th generation manual Civic LX (because the motor is none VTec and any other Civic would be Vtec)? Can I use my axles or will I need the LS Axles? If I can do, you recommend getting all the AC components from an LS or stick with mine? With your Civic, was it really hard to do the automatic to manual, as far as the pedal assembly, Master Cylinder, and shift linkage? (Because I`m sure it should be so different from mine) These are some questions I`m working on right know. Thanks so much Dude, you don't realize what a big help you are!!!

P.S. I`m a Marine, so if you need anything blown up let me know:) J/K
 
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