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Discussion Starter #1
I'm looking at the crower stroker for my ls/vtec. I got the head, ls block, and the dowel pins have been matched up along with the new pumps. All thats left is the internals. There stroker kit brings the 1.8 to 2.1! Thats near h22a displacment without the weight. Have any of you honda freaks done or know someone with a stroked engine? Check out the page ( http://www.crower.com/cat/import/honda/stroker.shtml ) and throw some threads back. WARNING! Look at the $2300 dollar price at own risk.
 

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What do you think the torque output on an ls/vtec with i/h/e would amount to with that stroker? Maybe i'll just get forged rods, use my b16a1 pistons, and use the money i save for a turbo setup. Spoon has a 1.6 stroker but thats just a GSR crank with forged rods and pistons from spoon, $1700.
 

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Torque output would depend on what compression you specified for the pistons. You could run something like 11:1 or maybe higher, you'd have torque at least as good or better than an H22. Torque is generally a product of displacement and effective compression.
So do you have an LS/VTEC or a B16?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I basically have a ls/vtec preped but with no internals. I want some input on the stroked b18b. My 91 dx hatch still has the 1.5L powerplant in it. I'm also not sure if crowers stroker kit requires machining to the block. I e-Mailed them three times already and no response. If i get negitive feedback on the stroker kit i can just balance the b18b crank and get the rest of the internals forged. It will be easyer to get the forged than the $2300 kit. But the 2.1 in displacment along with a near bulletproof kit keeps drawing me back. Add boost to that setup and that'll be a tough combonation to beat at the track and definetly at the street
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'm not sure but i don't think theres a ls/vtec or a h22a swap in the whole state of massachussetts. Everyone in boston is "Uncle Benin' it" if you know what i mean.
 

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i think

i think you have to bore the motor to get the 2.1 liters of displacement, but im not really sure you mights as well have the block resleveed and bored. might as well do it right the first time. i too was looking at this kit, but the i say the toda kit for the b16 at only2400 with crank and everything.
 

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The R/S ratio on the B18A/B is bad enough if you stroke it then you just make it worse, lets all remember that piston sideload if bad on engines especially high revving engines so if you stroke it you better get some nice sleeves. Now considering you will need to get better/new sleeves I think you should just get them at a 86mm bore because that will gine you 2 liters and retain a better R/S ratio

Why spend $2000 on a product that will shorten the life of your engine?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Out of the keyboard of crower:" Mild block notching for clearance issues may be required but nothing major.

HP depends on modifications, but figure 40-50 in displacement alone.

Thanks for your interest in Crower, "

ich_folge the kit is all forged the r/s ratio is with forged everything including crankshaft. Running the ls/vtec with about 10.5 cr should have no effect unless its revved to like 9600 all day. Import review put a 8600 rev limit and said they reched it countless times on they're stock rods and crank with ITR slugs.
 

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ryanplayjoint said:
Out of the keyboard of crower:" Mild block notching for clearance issues may be required but nothing major.

HP depends on modifications, but figure 40-50 in displacement alone.

Thanks for your interest in Crower, "

ich_folge the kit is all forged the r/s ratio is with forged everything including crankshaft. Running the ls/vtec with about 10.5 cr should have no effect unless its revved to like 9600 all day. Import review put a 8600 rev limit and said they reched it countless times on they're stock rods and crank with ITR slugs.
So I guess you take every thing a company says about there products as true?

Let’s break this down here

B16A 1.6 liter 160HP
B18C 1.8 liters 180HP

Now according to crower by stroking out a B16A your going to get a 40 to 50 HP gain so a B16A at 1.8 liters is going to make 20 to 30 more HP then a B18C, sorry it don’t add up


When you stroke and engine using the crank method “this is how Crower is doing it” you go with a longer crank stroke and shorter rods

Short rods = high sideload
Long rods – low sideload

Sideload does not really affect the internals for say what it does is put pressure on the cylinder walls at some point something will break and its going to be the rods or the cylinder walls themselves.

If your plans are to stroke an engine you should use the deck plat method “this is how Honda is doing it” this allows you to keep the longer rods this reducing sideload.

Oh ya I almost forgot the Crower stroker kit is NOT all forged, the only part in the kit that is forged is the crank and that’s the low end option

The low end option every thing is billet BUT the crank (cost $2299)
The high end option every part is billet including the crank (cost $3799)

Just so you know forged internals on a high sideload high revving engine would be very bad
 
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