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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
decided to make a custom turbo much cheaper


here we go

35mm tial wastegate
t3/t4 turbo
revhard manifold
sperco intercooler
3"downpipe
bov(undecided which one)
oil return line
various pipes
hose and clamps
of course dyno and fuel management (recommend fuel management please)
boost controllor
gauges, boost, air/fuel, exhaust

is there n e thig else



daily driver
no more than 10psi and at least 5psi want to run 13's

thanks for the help
 

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what motor you puttin that on......?
 

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vacuum hoses... i hope youre not putting that on a stock exhaust...
 

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get a Blitz BOV and get the HonData fuel management system...and i would suggest 3" pipe all the way from the downpipe to the muffler... although i think Thermal is 3" if not then get 3"... good luck..
 

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i didnt know that act went by stages... it was clutchmasters, right? act goes by the clamping force ex: 2600 lbs = act2600 right, so is that what youre getting? if so, ur gonna get a nice workout in your left leg
 

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Did you mention intercooler piping? That's a big cost factor, as it will have to be custom-made by a muffler/machine shop.

Honestly, I wish you luck in doing a kit "cheaper" for yourself, that is, if you're going to do it right. I've had good and bad experiences with my custom kit, but have come to the conclusion that it can't be done cheaply with parts that I would feel comfortable putting in my Integra.

I would recommend getting an adjustable FMU, like the Cartech, instead of the Vortech, as you'll be able to adjust your a/f, to an extent, for tuning purposes. In otherwords, you won't be stuck with the 12:1 pressure ratio. I got mine new on Ebay for $150.

You could do a Hondata unit, but it's hella expensive, and not necessary unless you're rebuilding your engine to make some serious power. In the meantime, a simple FPR should work fine.

The 255 lph fuel pump is a necessity, as your stock fuel pump can not handle the volume requirements at the increased pressures your FPR will make.

As of major importance, I would consider getting larger injectors. Stock injectors CAN freeze open or closed under high fuel rail pressures, like around 100 psi or so (very dangerous), and if you do the math, your FPR will rise fuel pressures to well over that to support 7-8 psi of boost pressure. Injectors rated at 330 cc/min (stock GS-R is 235 cc/min) would bring you down to a safe pressure, however, injector pulse widths at idle may be enough to flood the engine. My solution to this, though I've never heard of anyone trying it, would be to get a separate non-boost dependant fuel pressure regulator that can decrease the baseline fuel pressure to around 30 psi instead of the stock 45. This should allow the car to idle fine, and still be enough pressure to ensure consistent injector spray patterns, right?

Finally, I think your turbo selection is just fine. Someone mentioned just sticking with a T3 instead of the hybrid to reduce lag, but in actuality, that won't change your boost threshold by more than 100 rpm's. On a turbocharger, most of the inertia of the shaft is contained in the guts of the turbine, since that side becomes much hotter than the compressor. My point is that adding a larger compressor wheel (T3/T04E) does not contribute much inertialy compared to a simple T3. The benefits, however, are much greater power capacities, and higher effeciency at the upper end of the RPM range............This basically means that your turbo won't run out of steam at the top of your power band.

Well, that's my $.02, or $.25 even.......

Nick
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
12's that would be bad ass gotta keep all that power to the floor ...........


The auction is for a T3/T4. Brand new center section and exhaust housing. Comes with a choice of either .48 or .63 exhaust housing. Paypal and money orders only Shipping is 15.00 dollars Feel free to e-mail if you have any questions

would this be a good turbo to buy for 500 bucks

exhaust housing (confused):confused:
 
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