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Discussion Starter #1
first i'd like to say thanks to all you guys for answering my relentless questions and helping me get this far in my quest for boost!
HERE IS MY PLAN SO FAR:
-=goal:200+whp=-
-Lovefab shorty manifold (or custom welded by same guy who's doing my intake/exhaust, have to look into that)
-tial 38mm WG w/ .3bar spring + mbc to run 7-8psi
-t3/t4 turbocharger (specs pending price)
-johnnyracecar.com 30x3x6 fmic
-whatever bov i can find cheap
-dsm 450cc injectors+resistor box
-walbro 255lph fuel pump
-Hondata S200b
-turbo timer, boost and egt guages
-full turbo-back 3" exhaust
-2.5" charge piping

do you see any holes in this system at all? i think i've found a good balance of quality parts and affordability, but let me know if you'd do anything different like places where i shouldn't skimp or where i could get away with less? thanks!!!!
 

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why is this tkaing up space with another post? your old post was fine?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
ya i guess it was. i just made some changes and new decisions on the kit and thought i'd start a new thread for the specifics.
if the mod wants he can put the 2 threads together, i dont care. i just thought i'd get a better response this way because some people don't like reading 4 pages of posts.
 

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I have a suggestion- get a wastegate spring closer to the boost you want to run. Go with the .5bar (or.6 bar) spring and call it a day. There is no reason to have a .3bar spring, it just makes boosting high shakier the more you try to turn it up.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
johnyquest said:
I have a suggestion- get a wastegate spring closer to the boost you want to run. Go with the .5bar (or.6 bar) spring and call it a day. There is no reason to have a .3bar spring, it just makes boosting high shakier the more you try to turn it up.
the reason i want to get a lower pressure spring is because i drive this car in the winter and it gets rather slippery so i thought i might like to turn the boost down in the winter. just a convenience i thought, but if its better not to run a boost controller then i'll do that. question tho - why is it "shakier" to turn boost up manually? is it because regulating vaccuum pressure gets less accurate the more you cut it? <--just a guess
 

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Discussion Starter #7
acuradriva said:
my stock clutch still grabs great, and shouldn't have a hard time with just 200whp. i'll wait till it blows or starts slipping.
 

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This is for a DOHC non-VTEC right??

Well, forget custom stuff why hassle, buy a Revhard Stage 2, a Hondata S200B, get it tuned at 12psi...an you'll be about 240whp.

BTW...your stock clutch will last about two weeks with 200whp if you drive it hard.
 

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Check this out man...only 10psi...this could be you.

 

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superstud, are you won winnipegheights?
how come ive never seen that mr. 2 around? looks pretty sweet. have you gone to the streetraces this summer? sunday cruises?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
eghybrid said:
This is for a DOHC non-VTEC right??

Well, forget custom stuff why hassle, buy a Revhard Stage 2, a Hondata S200B, get it tuned at 12psi...an you'll be about 240whp.

BTW...your stock clutch will last about two weeks with 200whp if you drive it hard.
custom=better [email protected] price. i have all winter to look for deals on parts so why pay extra for someone else to put it together.

240whp? don't want that much power, i mean i do, but i really can't afford down time for my car. money is one thing, being without a car while it gets rebuilt is another, and i need my car for school. so for peace of mind, i'm keeping my goals fairly modest.
well if my clutch blows it blows. no biggie. i'll be taking it easy for a while anyways so if it starts slipping i'll start looking for another clutch.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
TheTurboDan said:
superstud, are you won winnipegheights?
how come ive never seen that mr. 2 around? looks pretty sweet. have you gone to the streetraces this summer? sunday cruises?
check pm (don't want to get off topic)
 

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Doing a custom turbo doesn't always mean better parts and cheaper prices. Actually there are two types of "custom" kits, there are no holds barred kits, and junkyard kits.

Yes you can make a custom kit cheaper than a Revhard but, $2700 for the Revhard is a really good deal. If you actually add it up, it comes out to about the same, if you use similar components. You get what you pay for, I'm going to spend $2500 on just the turbo and manifold for my Nissan, it's custom, and definitely NOT cheap.

You're throwing in used DSM injectors on your list, granted those take some off of the price but, they're used, so you lose the comparison of price between a brand new Revhard kit, and kit you piece together with used parts. If that's the case, I have seen Revhard kits used on Ebay for $1500...which beats both options hands down.

And if you're worried about reliability, a Lovefab, is less reliable than a cast anyday, it's not unreliable, just less reliable than cast, and the risk is there. You don't want to risk it cracking and having downtime do you?? ANd with your power level it's not necessary at all, cast manifolds flow well enough in applications up to 350hp or so.

But hey, it's your call, and good luck.
 

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Here's what I'm saying...

Lovefab Manifold: $799
T3/T04E Turbo: $550
Oil supply and return lines/fittings: $120
Discharge flange plus custom downpipe work: $150
Intercooler Piping plus work: $200
Coupler and bands(4ea.): $60
Tial 38mm Wastegate: $250
Flange and discharge pipe: $30
Blow-off valve and flange: $225
JohnnyRaceCar Intercooler: $250

Total= $2484
Revhard= $2700

So you saved very little money in the basic kit, and I gave some prices on the cheap side for some of the work...heck the madrel bent bends for the downpipe alone could cost $100, so it may be more. Not to mention the hassle and extra time of having to do everything yourself and go through some trial and error on fitment...Like I said though it's you're choice, and good luck either way.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
thanks for your input eghybrid. and given the info you have, i cannot blame you for your response, BUT...
i have a hookup for all of my pipe work/flanges/welding, and while i don't have exact prices, i will be getting a good deal on all of it. i don't plan on paying retail for anything in this kit, and i shouldn't have to. ebay really is a wonderful invention! also my main reason for going custom is because i can get all the parts i want. i don't need brand new injectors, because at the price savings, dsm 450s are a way better bang for the buck (i can also get very good deals on used oem parts through a local wrecker). also i want the fuel pump and the tial WG, etc...
here is my price estimate, based on ebay/internet store prices:
-lovefab SHORTY manifold (not SST) = $299 (good price even compared to cast, looks better too!)
-tial 38mm wg, .45bar spring = just bought for 200
-t3/t4 (probably used) = 300-500
-johnnyracecar.com FMIC= $250
-cheap (maybe oem) BOV, DSM injectors, Honda resistor box = <100 from wrecker
-walbro 255lph fuel pump = 85 new off ebay
-Hondata S200b w/ecu socketing and baseling prog = ~650+tuning
-Turbo timer = 80
-boost, EGT guages = 100
-3" inlet/outlet straight through muffler (magnaflow/dynomax/etc.) = 90
-lines, fittings, etc. = ~150 from hardware store
total = ?2304-2504 depending on turbo price
+piping/welding/flanges (which you totaled at about 350, but will be cheaper for me)
+tuning of S200 (i've been told a few hours, so ~200)

so even if i spend 500 on the turbo and 350 on piping and 250 on tuning i'm looking at a hair over $3100 for a good quality reliable setup including an S200. thats better than any kit i can find!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
if you're trying to sell stuff you should post in the classifieds section. i already stated that i have someone to do all my metal work for me, so thanks anyways!
 

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Like I said...you're gonna have a "junkyard" kit, sure you can buy a used turbo that can go out on you at anytime becuase you don't know who did what to it.

And you can use old DSM injectors without getting them cleaned and spec'd by RC Eng. and risk running lean in one of your cylinders, but hey you're saving some omney, so why not. And as far as your metal work, you may save some money there but, I really hope your metal worker has a mandrel bender, and you plan on using stainless steel...unless you like rust.

And you're comparing apples to oranges here, you're saving minimal amounts of money and using second hand parts. Cheaper does not mean better, if it did we'd all be driving Kias. But, like I said it's your choice, and good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
i always thought a junkyard kit used mostly parts from a junkyard:rolleyes:. the fact is i will be happier with what i've chosen than if i'd spend the money on a prefab kit. with the money i'm saving i can throw a hondata in and tune the system to eliminate lots of the problems basic kits have, like fuel management. as far as used parts, i'll be very careful as to what i buy. i'm not stupid, and i've bought used stuff before. you just have to know what you're looking for. the yard i'm buying the injectors from wouldn't screw me, and they'll do their best to get be the best parts they can.

as far as my metal worker, he's extremely good. he does lots of huge jobs and has a very well equipped shop. i trust him more than i trust the internet downpipe and flange sellers. he knows his shit.
thanks for your concern tho.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
ok i have 2 more questions

1. do you need gaskets for all the connections (WG, BOV, turbo and manifold connection, dp connection)?

2.what spec of t3/t4 would be best for my application, and what exactly do the specs mean. i have an idea but haven't been able to find a real definition of all the specs like a/r... i just know that i dont want very big numbers on either side given my modest goals.

can someone help me out on this?
 
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