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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey, im buying a hatchback EF from a guy, car is all set up for drag racing, it has been all gutted and has lexan windows. Here is the setup of the car:

-D16A6 block and head
-skunk 2 drag launch coilovers
-KYB adjustable struts in the front and rear
-Mickey Thompson slicks
-AEM fuel rail
-Nos/Holley fuel pressure regulator & gauge
-AEM cam gear
-Ported head
-ACT 8lb flywheel
-ACT Extreme pressure plate and disc
-NX direct port nitrous, 50-250 shot
-Nos purge kit
-Nos time based, progressive controller
-Short throw shifter
-MSD 6AL ignition
-Blaster coil, cap, and wires
-Fluidyne radiator
-Walbro 255 fuel pump
- Also that spare block and crank

Owner claims the car did a 12.31 with SRP 8.5:1 pistons, eagle rods, and a 150 shot of nitrous. Does that sound about right?

Also, the stock internals were put back in the car, and a rod went through the side of the block. The car comes with a good d16a6 block and crank, so i will be rebuilding the motor. My question is whether i should do p29 pistons and d-series rods and run like a 50 shot, which would be pretty cheap (dont have much money,) or do low compression forged internals like the previous owner did and do a 150 shot. Would the d-series rods hold up? Any help would be greatly appreciated, please keep cost in mind.
 

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Eh..w/ the slicks i guess that could be right. He gave you a new crank and block? A strcitly strip A6 though....

How much are you spending?

The stock D series bottem end would not hold much more than 220
 

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Not bad..PICS OR BAN!!

Serously though, since it seems liek your getting no internals get LS rods and vitara pistons and you can get to about 300 safely.

So what about a tune.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Still have to figure out what ecu is in the car, all the guy said was that it is an si ecu chipped and can be programmed, so i assume he was running uberdata or something, he didnt know much as he bought the car from his friend who blew it up. Also, i was looking into ls rods but it looked like a pain in the ass to do.
 

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I think the CR drops it to a 8.5 or something. If you get LS rods i think you have to do something with the wrist pins. Either add or take away....If you search you can find info on it.
 

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Actually your CR would be 7.3 w/ the LS rods and less with the OEM length D16 rods.

I used zealautowerks.com

You dont want your CR that low. I cant remember if people just dropped them in and went or what they did to bring the CR up a bit.
 

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Yeah, its factory spec length. LS are just stronger. If thats what you want to do. Now if when you tune and run or whatever, just dont blow off the ringlands. Vitaras are forged which was why i said go with them. A little extra insurance. But like i said its up to you
 

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Still have to figure out what ecu is in the car, all the guy said was that it is an si ecu chipped and can be programmed, so i assume he was running uberdata or something
If you have the PM6 Si ecu you are running Turboedit or BRE. OBD0 programs.
 

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I thought they were which is why people went with them. What else would be the point in having -12cc dish.
 

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daveb91 is right they are not forged they are factory cast piston they are just dished with a good ringland good for boost not big nitrous Id go forged pistons with eagle rods with a blockguard and you can spray a 150shot all day long
 

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Your all missing the point - He has $700. The Ls rod conversion requires about 30 thousandths get shaved off of the big end of the LS rods. They also require the small end to be rebushed because of the smaller wrist pin that the d series uses. Even to do a set on the cheap most shops are gonna get you for around 100-125 for the work and the 25 bucks from crower for the bushings. You can get some forged I beam or H beams off of ebay right now for around $200-$225. The vitara's are about $125. Pretty cheap. The Vitara's will hold 150 hp of spray no problem - I have seen some guys running 225hp and not having any issues at all. Of course they are re - ringing at the end of season just to freshen the block up. Same pistons - 4th season.
HENRY
 
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