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This is a write-up of my y7/y8 mini me. done Bauleycivic style, though with less detail.


This swap was performed using a 1996 D16Y8 head which was mated onto a 1997 D16y7 block. I also swapped my pistons and rods for those from an 89-91 D16A6 for more compression.

pictures of my particular y8 head: http://**********.com/zerothread?id=720018
Thats Honda- Tech.com ya'll

What you need to buy:
New coolant and oil
d16y8 head
d16y8 head gasket
new head bolts

AND HERE WE GO: REMOVING THE OLD HEAD
1. drain the engine of coolant and engine oil
2. disconnect all coolant hoses, sensors, throttle cable, exhaust manifold and bracing from the y7 head (leave the y7 intake manifold attached--it makes the head easier to lift)
3. remove the spark plug wires and valve cover from the y7 head
4. unbolt the distributor from the head, and lay it aside, it's unnecessary to remove the dizzy from the engine bay
5. remove the 10 head bolts
6. double-check to make sure nothing else is still attached to the head, and then remove it from the block

now make sure the block is nice and clean, and if you are going to replace your internals like me, this is the time to do it, just drop the oil pan, and remove the rod bolts and pop the pistons out of the top of the block.

oh yeah, next time you hear someone talk about the bottom end of a d-series being unstable, take off the oil pan of a y7 and you'll notice a solid piece of aluminum, at least 3 inches wide tying the main caps together. :thumbup:


PUTTING THE NEW HEAD BACK ON:
FIRST MAKE SURE THE #1 CYLINDER IS AT TDC by rotating the crank usign the crank pulley bolt and that the cam is adjusted to straight up position.

1. spray the y8 head gasket with copper spray and put it in position, then replace the two spacers in the block.
2. lay the head on the block carefully, making sure everything goes on smoothly
3. torque the head bolts following the factory sequence
4. reattach all of the various sensors, timing belt, coolant and vacuum lines, and whatnot to the new head.

Also, at this time, replace the P2E ECU with the P2P from the EX trim level civic.

NOTE: we did not change the timing belt on my car as it was in near-perfect condition. that is why i have omitted this information from the write-up

Making it all work: this is the tricky part as there are a wires that will need to be either rerouted, spliced, eliminated, or disregarded.

1. The throttle body is a possible point of difficulty, the easiest way is to use the Y8 throttle body and y8 IACV on the head. In order to do this with the y7 wiring harness, you will need to take two spade connectors and connect them to the two prongs on the male side of the IACV connector, the connect these two wires to the three-wire female plug on the y8 wiring harness, being sure to disregard the orange wire. You will need to swap wires A12 and A14, and then disconnect wire A13 from the plug at the ECU.

2. To wire VTEC, you will either need some pigtails or you can just run two wires through the firewall, to the ECU, one coming from the VTEC solenoid and the positive wire from the VTEC pressure sensor. Be sure to ground the negative side of the VTEC pressure sensitive to somewhere on the chassis. Route the VTEC solenoid wire to socket A8 and the pressure sensor to socket C15 (at the ECU)

and i believe that is that!

and here are the pictures:

new pistons VS old pistons:


infinatenexus checking a couple of sensors


so pretty:


putting the dizzy on:


the old head:


the pretty, prepped block:


nice...


even after 67k miles, the cylinder walls still had the cross-hatching from the factory:


if i missed anything, please let me know.




Modified by soccaian at 7:36 PM 1/15/2004
 

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How does your ride feel with the added horses from the head and pistons? would it be easier to use a vtec controller instead of the stock ex ecu to have the vtec engage at the right time? Nice set up though, keep us posted if any minor problems arise from the install.
 

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it feels pretty good, but i havent been able to open it up really since there's only about 20 miles on the new block :p

but i did take it up to 7k once after i wired VTEC up (i just couldnt help it) and it threw a CEL, i still havent checked to see what it is.
 

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I have been wondering about swaping pistons? Wouldnt it be better to get the block rebored. Isnt it a lost cause to put new pistons and rings into something that is worn out? Just wondering, because im thinking of doing the same thing, but using je pistons and h beam rods. Thanks.

Ps my car has 113k on the dash, but the guy I bought it from rolled the miles back.
Matt
 

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that's dumb.. don't shoot yourself in the foot to save money. if you must, pick up some cheap ass no name cai off ebay for like $40 and just run that until you can afford the 'better' cai .. y8 manifold flows better and yields more midrange-top end power over the y7. or you could just cut the cai you have on the y7 now.. you have plenty of options available.
 

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OK just wanna make sure I got this right. All you need is the Head, head gasket, and some new head bolts. What is the P2E ecu and P2P. You can just splice in all your own wire harness? If there is anything else (part wise) please let me know. Thanks for the write-up.
BTW the link to the other thread wasn't working.
 

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I thought I typed this question earlier today, maybe it just disappeared...lol

Anyways, I was wondering if the only parts for this swap are the head, gasket and head bolts? You don't need any other additional parts? What is the P2E and P2P ecu's?
I'm pretty interested in doing this swap so any info or links would be helpful. Thanks.
 

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are u still using tha d series ecu?>
 

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fuco8210 said:
Is the y7 block stronger/better for turbo then the y8 block?
both are the same I think.

I beleive they both use the same everything as far as the short block goes cause both are right around 9.2 to 1 c/r
 

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fuco8210 said:
The y7 is a long block correct? Thanks for the info 984door you the man! :tu
Y7 = 1.6 w/o a vtec head

Y8 = 1.6 with a vtec head,different intake mani,and different exhaust mani

Other than the head,IM,and exhaust mani the engines are identical.

Same crank,same rods,same pistons,same stroke

No problem man ;)
 
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