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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I got a 2005 civic vp, which brings up my first question. This model is in the middle of the dx and the ex so which one do i order parts for? Secondly i only have to pay car insurance and nothing else, so i have money waiting to be spent.
1) Im looking into running like 8-12 boost but if i do this will i need to rebuild the motot or is the compression already low enough?

2) If this is the bad route then what kind of N/A parts am i looking into to get the same amount of preformance as with a turbo or will that only be achieved by rebuilding it with higher compression?

Any ideas will be helpfull just trying to find the right path

(its completley stock D17 i just got the car 3 weeks ago no unpgrades yet)
 

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d-series and n/a do not go together.

2. psi means nothing. 7 pounds on a 14b is different than 7 pounds on an sc61.

3. how built your motor is depends on how much power you want to put down.

4. research
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
d-series and n/a do not go together.

2. psi means nothing. 7 pounds on a 14b is different than 7 pounds on an sc61.

3. how built your motor is depends on how much power you want to put down.

4. research
I don't want to do anything crazy seeing as it is my daily driver but it would be nice if i could get into the 220whp area without taking out anything AC or PS. I had a truck i did a motor swap in and i took out stuff like that... bad experience
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
alright so im looking for a slighly smaller turbo along with something like a log mani so that i dont have to drop off part, right? Then i just need to piece together a turbo kit and get little things like exhaust and etc. Will my stock clutch be able to handle this extra power or will i need to get a stage 2?
 

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stages mean nothing. look up the clutch you want and it's peak holding power. that determines what you need.fidanza stages are different than act. and yes piece together the kit yourself


walbro fuel pump
larger injectors
turbo
manifold
exhaust
fmic
ecu(ems)
clutch
tires
lsd
etc
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So if you had to put a price range for all the parts and money needed to tune it right how much do you think i am looking at?
 

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Ok thanks for all the help think i will wait till summer to start so i have a ride to school but will deffinatly start to order parts and set stuff up
You might wanna look into a DIY turbo setup. requires more research and your outcome will differ depending on what turbo you use. DIY turbo usually means taking a turbo from a factory turbo vehicle. You do run the risk of the turbo needing to be rebuilt or some such.

Id say source a turbo kit on ebay for the fact they are new parts, but when you find it, look up the turbo, google or whatever, to make sure its right for your choice. liek was stated earlier, the same PSI will have different lag and power on different turbos. 8 psi on a huge friggin turbo will net drastic pwoer and lag difference then say a turbo half the size.

Look here>> http://www.homemadeturbo.com/turbo_projects/ <<<some of your questions can be answered
 

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d17s are the bastard child bro. finding parts for them is like finding a clean prostitute. you need to find a manifold that fits. thats most important (as far as fitment goes) after that. most other parts from a 2001-2005 (except the si) will fit. start sourcing parts and read the boost sticky thread. itll save your motor and your life. goodluck
youll need it.
 

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well first off. check ur engine code. if its a d17a1. look for dx/lx parts. if its an a2 look for ex parts. and its tru psi means nothing. 6-8psi out of a t25-t28 would be acceptalbe. none of that ebay t3/t04e crap. you wanna keep ac and ps right? look for a manifold that will accept both and run a small turbo that will spool fast with out being too small. check out the kits on turbokits.com. if you wanna piece something together check out the hks manifold. its a very nice cast unit for an internally gated t28. if you piece a kit together theres a good chance youll be getting stuff fabricated nonstop. quality fabrication costs lots of money. just buy a kit. overall it will be much cheaper and youll have less problems.

edit* and if im not mistaken the injectors from the k-series motors are 310ccs and are direct drop in for obd2 hondas. good enough for low boost d series motors. do some research first thou.
 

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well first off. check ur engine code. if its a d17a1. look for dx/lx parts. if its an a2 look for ex parts. and its tru psi means nothing. 6-8psi out of a t25-t28 would be acceptalbe. none of that ebay t3/t04e crap. you wanna keep ac and ps right? look for a manifold that will accept both and run a small turbo that will spool fast with out being too small. check out the kits on turbokits.com. if you wanna piece something together check out the hks manifold. its a very nice cast unit for an internally gated t28. if you piece a kit together theres a good chance youll be getting stuff fabricated nonstop. quality fabrication costs lots of money. just buy a kit. overall it will be much cheaper and youll have less problems.

edit* and if im not mistaken the injectors from the k-series motors are 310ccs and are direct drop in for obd2 hondas. good enough for low boost d series motors. do some research first thou.
if he's gonna boost i'd atleast fine some 370's to 450's
 

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FMU FTMFL :lol having an fmu is just for show, fire exhaust anyone? :lol Just tromp on the gas and let off, and watch your car stutter and die
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Ok so new idea I need to new paint due my bro's driving skills and i will not be able to rebuild this summer so on a stock D17a1 how much boost (roughly) will I be able to do safely? Will bigger injecters and fuel pump really be nessary? How much hourse power gain will i be looking at with turbo along with a few other bolt on's
 

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For power you should definitely turbo the motor. But keep in mind that there are a lot of parts necessary to make it work. It is DIY but that doesn't mean it is easy. 220whp is a big jump from where you are at now since you likely only have 130whp now. That kind of power may require you to do some building of the bottom end of the engine. You may need forged rods and pistons etc.

You need to consider the axles along with the clutch. It doesn't matter if the clutch will hold the power of the engine when the teeth on the axles get shredded during engagement. So, look into some axles from Enjo or Raxle.

You may be able to do all this for 2k but you may not be able to get it to pass emissions. Keep that in mind if this is your daily driver. Depending on how your state handles emissions testing your car may not pass if you alter the intake, exhaust, or fuel management. I see you are driving a 2005 and as such you are ODBII which means that your ECU logs your emission information and most states simply plug in a computer and read that information directly. So, if you bypass the ECU to change the fuel management and spark information you will cause yourself issues with emissions testing.

Likely your best bet is to make sure all your upgrades are CARB legal.

I know we all want to make big power and run turbos on our daily drivers but sometimes the biggest reality check is when you can't license your car because it fails an emissions or safety inspection.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
The car has 115 hp from factory which is said to be a little underrated (i have no clue) but im not that woried about ignitions and im checking into a ecu piggyback so i wont have to change the ecu out, not looking for an exact hp goal but low 200's would be nice
 
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