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Wadzii22 said:
imo, id stay away from this block untill its proven.. i dont know of anyone that is running it yet. i dont like the fact that the main caps are steel and the block is aluminum. these to metals have different rates of expansion and such. i dunno, just dosnt sound like a good idea to me
The fact that the block has steel mains is a major selling point,w/all-out domestic racing engines this is the first modifacation to be made usually.Yes they have different expansion rates but w/a good machinist working on your motor you should be fine.The extra strength is worth the expense,and is much stronger then iron caps.Plus the closed deck is much better for turbo or NO2.Not many are using it because it has been outlawed in NHRA comp.
 

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Wadzii22 said:
when was the last time you saw a honda bust a main cap...?
Just because the cap doesn't break does not mean it is strong enough.You've heard of detonation right?Well a steel cap will hold up to the stresses of detonation much better than a stock cap,when the stock cap distorts and you spin a bearing you're gonna wish you had steel caps.Oh yeah how often have you seen a spun bearing in a honda??Pretty often ain't it.:eek
 

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Wadzii22 said:
when was the last time you saw a honda bust a main cap...?
So you're complaining about the Dart having stronger parts than even the already-proven Honda pieces? Anyway, Ford and GM do the same in production engines like the AL block mod motors and LS1 repectively.

As far as different expansion rates....people have have been putting aluminum heads on iron blocks and aluminum intakes on iron heads, all for decades and with great success.
 

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So you guyz think the dart b18 block would be good to get?? cause i was roll with a turbo ls/vtec. but i was the only driven i was gonna do with it was to drive it to were i would be racin at. park it an race when it needed to be raced. An for a turbo motor i know that the closed deck blocks are better because they can handle more boost because of the deck being around the top of the cylinders. becasue i used to race my wrx, until i sadly stripped first gear. but what do you guyz think bout that? would it be safe just 2 drive like 15mins. to the strip were we race at an then park it an race? an what kinda crank would you prefer to use in lsvtec?
 

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It wouldnt be hard either. Dart block, Cower rods and cams, JE pistons, Manley valves, Edelbrock intake, Eagle crank, Moroso pan, Garrett turbo, Spearco cooler....what else?
 

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Dart also produces the "GSX" head, replica gsr casting that they port and polish. Its intended to be mated up to the dart block. Should be awesome, has some serious flow statistics.
 

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i have worked on 2 of those things and they have problems with the oil plugs leaking and nothing stops it (had to modify the block to use oe honda plugs)and on one all the sleeves sunk.002-.003". the block has to be totaly deburre(cut my hands multiple times). the over all quality is just plain bad.
 

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Go there to check out our new setup and pics of the Dart motor

http://www.houston-imports.com/forums/showthread.php?t=248948&page=1&pp=20


The car ran 11.4's all day and night with the B18C1 it had, that motor will now go into a street car we are building since this EG we just decided to go all out,but it was a bone stock block with a fully built head with stage 3 Comp cams, and a 150 shot dual stage, now its gonna get rods and pistons and a new crank for a street set up, hopefully the new setup will get it into the 10's
 

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TopNotchH22 said:
http://www.houston-imports.com/forums/showthread.php?t=248948&page=1&pp=20


The car ran 11.4's all day and night with the B18C1 it had, that motor will now go into a street car we are building since this EG we just decided to go all out,but it was a bone stock block with a fully built head with stage 3 Comp cams, and a 150 shot dual stage, now its gonna get rods and pistons and a new crank for a street set up, hopefully the new setup will get it into the 10's
Ow wow, that block is beautiful. Have fun with her. Any dyno charts?
 

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Dart b20 feedback

I'm new to these forums but i got to reading this particular one and thought it necessary to tell you my experiences regarding the Dart B20. About a year ago i bought this block for the same reason some of you are contemplating doing the same. I was skeptical of the closed deck but still optimistic. over the next month i waited in agony to get my car back after the dyno i had a "1000 mile break in period" so i got to drive the car but not go over 5k rpm :bash (i could but i didnt want to break anything) after the break in i took it back to my shop to see what she really could do.

heres a list of the majors, i wont get to specific because that will take a couple pages. so ill just describe the meat and potatoes

b20 dart block 84mm bore
je pistons
eagle rods
eagle crankshaft
AEM EMS
Fully built b16 head
P&P
skunk2 tit retainers and valve springs
skunk2 stage 3 camshafts
skunk2 cam gears
Full race ProAm stage 4 GT turbo kit (t4/t67 BB turbo)

I pulled 689 whp with 412 ft. lbs of tq. :D

Now as far as the b20 dart block, its a DREAM come true. 6000 miles later and still running strong. No overheating issues, no problems what so ever. Will post vids and pics of block tomorrow. I hope this helps any doubts you may have about the dart b20 block.
 

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I'm new to these forums but i got to reading this particular one and thought it necessary to tell you my experiences regarding the Dart B20. About a year ago i bought this block for the same reason some of you are contemplating doing the same. I was skeptical of the closed deck but still optimistic. over the next month i waited in agony to get my car back after the dyno i had a "1000 mile break in period" so i got to drive the car but not go over 5k rpm :bash (i could but i didnt want to break anything) after the break in i took it back to my shop to see what she really could do.

heres a list of the majors, i wont get to specific because that will take a couple pages. so ill just describe the meat and potatoes

b20 dart block 84mm bore
je pistons
eagle rods
eagle crankshaft
AEM EMS
Fully built b16 head
P&P
skunk2 tit retainers and valve springs
skunk2 stage 3 camshafts
skunk2 cam gears
Full race ProAm stage 4 GT turbo kit (t4/t67 BB turbo)

I pulled 689 whp with 412 ft. lbs of tq. :D

Now as far as the b20 dart block, its a DREAM come true. 6000 miles later and still running strong. No overheating issues, no problems what so ever. Will post vids and pics of block tomorrow. I hope this helps any doubts you may have about the dart b20 block.
do you think that with an n/a build with about 11.5:1 cr that the dart block would still be okay for a semi-daily driver??? I also have an accord to get around in but I need to drive a fast car, I'm an adrenalin junkie and I will want to drive it all the time. also what's the approx. cost on the dart b20.
thanks
 

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do you think that with an n/a build with about 11.5:1 cr that the dart block would still be okay for a semi-daily driver??? I also have an accord to get around in but I need to drive a fast car, I'm an adrenalin junkie and I will want to drive it all the time. also what's the approx. cost on the dart b20.
thanks
First let me say this, You can go the dart way which will cost you about 2k for JUST the block/casting. Its expensive but well worth it... are you going all motor? if you are then id go with the dart 2.2L. thats for all motor. if your going turbo.. then b20 is better.. but with the b20 you have to take into consideration that if you already have a b16 or b18 and are switching out the bottom ends then your going to need little things for the b20 that you cant swap off the b16/b18 bottom end.. for example the crank pulley (bigger one) bigger pulley means your gonna need a bigger belt (most likely a high perf. one)... etc. however dart does make a b18 if your intentions are to just swap out the bottom ends. But i HIGHLY reccommend that if you do fork out the cash to have the dart block (regardless of if its the b20 b18 or 2.2L) then I would get it built properly. Putting stock internals in one of these blocks is an insult to the block lol.

As for the compression... it depends on if your going turbo or all motor... if turbo.. I'd go lower. and If i am correct (i could be wrong on this) but i believe the 2.2 dart block supports up to 14-1 compression ratio.. which is OMG.. lol

in your case.. if i were you.. and your just looking for a daily driver.. id go to a local perf. shop (who has alot of exp. in building hondas perferably.) and have them Sleeve your bottom end.. (most cases it only costs just over $1000.) Piston and rod combos are usually around $600-900. upgrading the valvetrain is also highly recommended ALWAYS no matter what setup your running .. wether it be turbo or all motor... costs about $400.

On the positive side of this setup.. Your block still technically meets the standards for competition in NHRA. where as the Dart block has been OUTLAWED by the NHRA. meaning you can't use it at any NHRA competitions. (i think its because it has to be a stock block built, not an aftermarket one) It also could be the fact that its a closed deck design (diff from stock) and the fact that its a bigger block then stock (taller deck height then stock. I.E. lower compression for turbo ;).)

So if you want your car to own the shit out of everything on the road and be 100% reliable... dart b20 (or 2.2l for all motor)

And from what i've heard, resleeving is just as Reliable. Just not as beneficial as the dart block can be. There's more that the dart block is better then the stock one but.. this post has gone on long enough lol..
 

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I think i will run this block when i can get some money together
I was looking around and i found this
if you go down there is rotating assemblies for the dart block using 5.967 long rods and that combined with 89mm crank eqauls 2L with an R/S of 1.70 nearly that of B16!! and there stroker kit is the 95mm with equals a 2.2 with an R/S of 1.595 witch is beter than that of a B18c5. Happy reving:D


(P.S hope i did my math right:bash)
 
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