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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ever wondered how to power your V1 besides the old fasion cig-lighter plug annoying coiled power cord? messy looking loose wires on your dash bored annoy you? answers were yes to me, so I began my searches.
I own a Valentine 1, so that's what I worked with. Item 00030 (Direct-Wire Power Adapter Kit)on their website. (Part Department ) I first taught it would be so hard, because it came with no instruction, but as always, I gave some time to think and I finally got the whole idea of this project. the whole work took me about 10 mins, but I doubt it would take more then 15 mins for any one.
here goes the process.

1. the Hard wiring kit.



2. Finding the Switch wires. I went thru couple of websites what tolled how to do this work, but it was in BMWs, so really didn't help alot, but I landed on this one site telling me basic color codes. (http://www.carstereo.com) what we are looking for is Ignition (+12v Switched) Yellow/Red wire. meaning it only turns on when the key is in the key hole.
You'll see this when you open up your driver-side fuse box.

but there are few other places you are able to clamp the clamp to. any red or yellow wire is what we are looking for, so I went for yellow, why? no reason.

This would be right under the steering wheel, kinda blury, but all the wire's colors show up. I pointed out few places you can clamp I spoted in the pic with red arrows.




3. Clamping the clamp. it was easy, and I looked for about 12 gauge size of wire, and I round it. pics above is what I found, and this is what it looks like clamped.


4. Now, simply plug the red's end into the clamp. time to get the black wire, which is grounding.


5. now that both red and black wires are connected, test it out before hiding the wire. and it worked for me the first time, so I didn't worry much.

6. Hiding the wires. this is the fun part, hiding the wires, makes your car much cleaner inside!! my fav part for me atleast.
plug the wire into the V1 and estimate how much you'll need, and leave some extra for feature, you might be moving the device around, so leace some extra alone. Simply push the wires up aginst the windwhield, and they sould slide right in.

The side molding poped out with out a hassle, just gently pull on it from the top edge of it.

run the wire down to fuse box, hide it well behind the plastics so that the power cord won't be in away next time you open up your fuse box again.


7. everything is connected, only thing left to do it store it right so it doesn't move around every where. I rolled up the rest of the power-cord and shoved it into a piping that was open.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
8. put the wires away, and place the connector in corner somewhere so it does not move.



9. now, close the fuse box, and pretend nothing happend :p


10. Everything is done right, then you won't see this any more!



Now, You'll see this instead.


I love how it looks now, made my car look much more cleaner, the way I like.
if anyone has any question, I'll reply with best of my abilities.
Happy hardwiring. :)


mad-ass
 

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i returned da favor :D
nice lookin wirteup, just scimmed through it though. glad u figgered it out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thank you much.
but I was concerned myself as well after i clamped it to alarm power, but I noticed, it only turns on when it's in II, instead of I when the radio turns on.
so, it turns on with the power windows and the computer.
more things to learn about my car..
 

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on an alarm, red line denotes constant 12v and yellow is for ignition 12v(spot II)

constant is obviously constant, powered all the time
accessory is hot in I and II, but loses power while cranking (III)
ignition is hot in II and keeps power while cranking (III)

werd to that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
rex'er said:
on an alarm, red line denotes constant 12v and yellow is for ignition 12v(spot II)

constant is obviously constant, powered all the time
accessory is hot in I and II, but loses power while cranking (III)
ignition is hot in II and keeps power while cranking (III)

werd to that.
I guess Yellow is Accessory wire then, but it's not hot on I. my V1 does the exact same.
but red, is the ignition.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
flytojungho said:
hey, thanks for the post.. so on ANY car, red or yellow wires are ignition wires? so if i ever get another car, i can still use the yellow and red wires? or is it just on Hondas?
mad-ass said:
2. Finding the Switch wires. I went thru couple of websites what tolled how to do this work, but it was in BMWs, so really didn't help alot, but I landed on this one site telling me basic color codes. (http://www.carstereo.com) what we are looking for is Ignition (+12v Switched) Yellow/Red wire. meaning it only turns on when the key is in the key hole.
There ya go.
 

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Need help on hardwiring. I am actually doing it right now but I can't find the 12v connection. In the fuse box, I see the connectors like you showed mad-ass, but is it possible to just clamp onto any yellow wire I see and make it work that way?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
sdaccord01 said:
Need help on hardwiring. I am actually doing it right now but I can't find the 12v connection. In the fuse box, I see the connectors like you showed mad-ass, but is it possible to just clamp onto any yellow wire I see and make it work that way?
yes you can. but like I said, try to pick out reasonable size wire,
if it's too skinny, you'll probably have bad connection,
i picked 18 gauge wire.
yellow or red is fine.

post up your reasults too, I actually wona see my post being used :D
 

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damn, how do you get one of those screws out to get a ground? what size is that hex screw? I have a 3/8 (too small) and 7/16 (too big)
 
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