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I have read That alot of people would like to know How to make a kill switch So here my How to:

Installing a Fuel Kill Switch​

Installing a fuel pump cut-off switch

One of the easiest security measures someone can have in the vehicle is a fuel pump cut-off switch. Not a mechanism that is wired into your alarm, because that can still be bypassed, but an actual switch inline with your fuel pump wiring. This is not a guarantee that your car will never get stolen, but if you hide your switch (or possibly switches) well, then it might deter a would-be thief. And for less than ten bucks and a little bit of your time, how can you go wrong?!

*Disclaimer*: I am not responsible for any damage incurred to vehicle or individual. This worked flawlessly for me, but that doesn't mean something couldn't happen to you.

Here is what I picked up for the job (all from Radio Shack):​
- 25A Automotive rocker switch, Part#275-730 (I don't recommend the lighted switches, I had issues with the one I got, plus why would you want a light on a switch you are trying to hide)
*Note* I recommend that a 25A switch be that absolute minimum you use for this application.
- 18 to 14 gauge wire (the thickness of the wire is dependant on how far away you will be mounting your switch(s) from the original splice of the yel/grn wire. You can use the thinner wire if the switch is close)
- Crimp on butt connectors (Red), Part#64-3037 (these are useful if you don't feel like soldering, and they work just as well)
- Heat shrink-wrap or electrical tape

Other tools you may need​
:

- 10mm open-ended wrench
- Wire cutters
- Needle nose pliers or wire crimpers (for crimping the butt connectors, if you use them)

Before I started cutting wires on the car I prepared my switch. I went ahead and soldered on the wire I was going to be using and cut the wire to a length I knew was going to be much more than I needed. When wiring a non-lighted SPST (single pole single throw) switch, the top blade is typically the POWER side or LINE side, meaning that this is where you solder the wire that will be running from the 12V battery . The middle blade is the LOAD side of the switch. Which means this is where you would be wiring the side of the fuel pump wire that goes directly to the pump. Check out the picture to see what I am talking about. This picture shows a lighted switch (the one I think is a bad switch), but it's the same principal. The RED wire is what I will be using for power, the BLACK wire is what I will be using for the fuel pump side.
Before doing anything, unhook the battery.
This is common sense.
All right lets dive right in. First we have to remove the bottom cushion of the back seat.
1. Lay the tops of seat down like you would if you were loading something in the car.
2. Pull up the fabric that covers the spare tire. Pull it up enough so you can see the bottom of the back seats, like in this photo. I had already removed this nasty fabric entirely, just for the hell of it.

• Use your 10mm wrench on the single bolt in the back. It can be somewhat of a pain to get to.
• After you have that bolt removed, pull the tops of the seat back up and get inside the car.
• Pull the cushion up by the front first. You will have to lift up and pull back, as there are little hooks holding the front of the cushion in.
• After you are done you should see this.
Now it's time to start cutting.
1. Pull the little bit of carpet back if you need to, and unwrap the wires.
2. Find the YELLOW wire with a GREEN stripe
3. Cut it where ever you like.
This next part is assuming you already have your switch mounted where you like it, and the wires run.
1. Strip about a quarter inch or a little more off the ends of the wires.
2. If you are using shrink-wrap, make sure to put in on now.
3. Insert the appropriate wires into the butt connectors. POWER wire goes to the part of the YEL/GRN wire running up front, LOAD wire goes to the YEL/GRN wire going to the pump.
4. Then they will look like this:

5. Now wrap up the connections neatly.
6. Put the rear cushion back in place. You might need to bump the front of it around to get the hole lined up in the back for that 10mm bolt.
Time to test. Hook the battery back up. Flip the switch to the ON position (the "|" position), and start the car up. If the car starts up that means everything is wired up correctly and nothing has blown. Now flip the switch to the OFF position (the "0" position), the car SHOULD stall out and you won't be able to start it back up with out flipping the switch back on.
If the car doesn't start with the switch in the ON position, you may have blown a fuse. Check the number Fuel Pump Fuse.
t's normally a 15A fuse, but I switched mine to a 25A just in case. I kept blowing fuses when I tried using that lighted switch shown at the beginning of this article. So I switched to the other switch (which I was saving for my starter kill, hehe) and everything worked fine. I might have had a bad switch, anything is possible.
That's it. You can see how easy this can be! Obviously I'm not going to tell you where I put my switch, but I had to do some "Dremel" fabrication to get it to hide well. You are only limited by your imagination. ALSO, you don't HAVE to cut the wires where I cut them. The wiring for the pump runs along the driver's side door sill, so all you would have to do is pull up some carpet to splice a wire in there, JUST REMEMBER IT'S THE YELLOW/GREEN wire! If you are feeling squirrelly you can install more than one switch too, in different areas obviously. Keep the bastard thieves guessing. :number1
 

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nbboy7,
Please take no offense in what I am about to say but.. Please no one set it up this way(with just a switch). Just putting in a switch by itself is a very bad idea. The switch can get very hot and cause a fire. No one wants to see all their hard work go up in a ball of flames. You need to hook up a relay. Here is a link to another thread that I posted up a reply on, on the same topic. My screen name is the same there as it is here. My reply is bout 1/2 down
http://www.jdmuniverse.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20052&page=2
Do not get me wrong it is a great write up. You might just want to update it with a relay. Trust me on this, I have had my dealings with switches in the past that got waaaay to hot. I know run relays with everything. just my .02 worth.
 

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as long as the switch is rated at the proper amperage, this is not a problem.

besides, i'd rather just put the switch inline with the ground side of the fuel pump. most fuel pump grounds are under the driver seat.
 

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Kill Switch

Since most of us end up replacing the radio that came with the vehicle, do what I did. A relay wired up to the remote wire of the radio, and then to the starter will prevent the car from being started when the face plate from the radio is removed, :btu
 

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XKWISIT1 said:
Since most of us end up replacing the radio that came with the vehicle, do what I did. A relay wired up to the remote wire of the radio, and then to the starter will prevent the car from being started when the face plate from the radio is removed, :btu
sounds good, but could you give a bit more detail, also, what is the remote wire even for?



EDIT: i reread your post and its not as complicated as a few shots of vodka make it seem

i checked the stuff that came with my stereo, it says the remote wire can handle 200mA...does that mean it can or cannot handle being hooked up to the starter?
 

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XKWISIT1 said:
Since most of us end up replacing the radio that came with the vehicle, do what I did. A relay wired up to the remote wire of the radio, and then to the starter will prevent the car from being started when the face plate from the radio is removed, :btu

one of the best ideas i have herd in a while
 

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only thing i can think of is what if your stereo gets stolen...wouldn't this set up prevent the car from being started? i mean the point of this is to prevent theft of the car, so if they are in your car and they cant get it started, they might take shit, like your stereo
 

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..

Since most of us end up replacing the radio that came with the vehicle, do what I did. A relay wired up to the remote wire of the radio, and then to the starter will prevent the car from being started when the face plate from the radio is removed, :btu
Hey very good useing the radio as a switch is great I have to try that some day ..An the other write up's are great also ..:cool
 

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if you drive standard, you can wire from the thing that the clutch sets off, when you press it in to start up, you have an independent turn on switch hidden, with it off, the car wont start, with it on, starts up fine!
 

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if you drive standard, you can wire from the thing that the clutch sets off, when you press it in to start up, you have an independent turn on switch hidden, with it off, the car wont start, with it on, starts up fine!
thats what i have, and its really easy to do
 

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if you drive standard, you can wire from the thing that the clutch sets off, when you press it in to start up, you have an independent turn on switch hidden, with it off, the car wont start, with it on, starts up fine!
wow we got a quick one fellas!!! too bad toyota came up with that in the 80's if you look at an older 4 runner or toyota 4x4, you will see basically what you just described on the dashboard... neutral safety switch or "bypass"
 

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wow we got a quick one fellas!!! too bad toyota came up with that in the 80's if you look at an older 4 runner or toyota 4x4, you will see basically what you just described on the dashboard... neutral safety switch or "bypass"
and seeing as honda's dont have these...what's your point
 

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nbboy7,
Please take no offense in what I am about to say but.. Please no one set it up this way(with just a switch). Just putting in a switch by itself is a very bad idea. The switch can get very hot and cause a fire. No one wants to see all their hard work go up in a ball of flames. You need to hook up a relay. Here is a link to another thread that I posted up a reply on, on the same topic. My screen name is the same there as it is here. My reply is bout 1/2 down
How-to Install Fuel Kill Switch - Page 2 - JDM Universe.com
Do not get me wrong it is a great write up. You might just want to update it with a relay. Trust me on this, I have had my dealings with switches in the past that got waaaay to hot. I know run relays with everything. just my .02 worth.
I used a 300amp key-switch which is meant to use with the battery, is this sufficient? im almost positive that there cant be more than 20amps running through the power wire to the fuel pump
 

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Say I were to have the switch around the parking brake area, would 18awg be sufficient? Or should I double up the wires? P.s. the switch is 300amps. (I know, its not exactly small, but it fits my application being as the only way the switch works is with a supplied key.)
 
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